r/resinprinting

just finished this pilot with the stand

Didn't like the bald head it had so i had to replace it with Neo himself. Did I get the scale right? Is the head too big?

My biggest project to date. Haven't painted much before, but super happy with how this turned out.

Model by Bulkamancer.

Salut tout le monde ! Je viens de peindre ma première figurine en résine de Lapras de Pokopia. C’est la première fois que je peint dans ma vie et je voudrais avoir quelques avis/conseils dessus. J’ai entièrement peint au pinceau et sans scotch de marquage

Merci à ceux qui prendront le temps de laisser un message 😀

Please listen to the video first!

I did have a suction issue. But I did resolve that with a change to my raft type. it started making this dial up tone (only way describe it) about an hour ago right after it had a major peal force issue, but as stated above, I did resolve that issue with a change in raft type. it seems to be printing fine so thats cool, it just now makes a vary odd sound when retracting and its 2 second pause and during flashing of the next layer.

anyone have something similar???

still learning the ropes in lychee.... but i don't know if i or the printer even will handle this model as it's very big, with a lot of parts and supports. am i doing something wrong? i'm using auto supports, auto alignment and auto rotation (on lychee) for the free Miku-arc model on cults3d by arbyzikenAndNikoCyn, i have a anycubic p1 with sunlu abs-like (in an enclosure, and the printer has a heater, also... isn't it better to make a single model instead of a lot of interlocking parts? it uses way much resin, is faster to print and requires less supports (i think), or maybe i'm just dumb XD

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Hey everyone,

I’m pretty new to resin printing and I’m currently trying to calibrate my settings using the Cones of Calibration V3.

I ran a test where I placed multiple cones across the build plate, but I’m getting inconsistent results:

- Some prints come out perfect (success cones look correct)

- Others fail or look under/overexposed

What confuses me is that I already adjusted and leveled my Z-axis, so I was expecting all prints to come out the same. Since the exposure settings are identical, shouldn’t the results be consistent across the plate?

Right now I’m using:

- Layer height: 0.05 mm

- Exposure: 2.2 s

- Bottom exposure: 25 s

- Lift height: 8 mm

- Lift speed: 60 mm/min

- Resin: water-washable grey sunlu

Is this kind of variation normal?

Could it be related to:

- build plate leveling (even if I already did it)?

- light uniformity across the screen?

- resin flow or suction forces?

I’m honestly a bit confused because I thought once the settings were dialed in, everything should print the same across the plate.

Any advice or things I should check would be really appreciated 🙏

I'm using chitubox free and my 3d printer is a halot mage s 14k

so long story short I have been using the m7 for months with no issues, and now I have started getting partial support fails and I have noticed the left side of my print beds base layers are very thin which means they are not printing properly, I am using a pre supported model and the first 2 times I done this piece a month ago was fine but now twice in a row I've had supports fail and now im seeing base layer on that side not print properly, I've re leveled my bed, I've made sure my screen isnt damaged, i have just changed out the fep and it just doesn't make sense for 1 side of my plate to print perfectly fine with the base layers are rafts and this side have such thin layers you can see through to the build plate, i have attached pics and photos of my resin setting and in case you need to know i am using anycubic standard v2 resin

Ive been wanting to print a shoe I designed and bought siraya tech black flex. I've been using the V3 cones of calibration to dial in the settings for this resin on my Uniformation GK2, but I cant seem to dial it in (at most I get 3 success cones).

I started at 3.5s exposure and kept increasing after failed prints and am now at 12s, which seems very high. I also started at 0.08 layers and moved to 0.05 which saw some improvement. I also increased the vat temp to 30 C from 25. Anyone know how to dial in this resin? Ive attached my settings.

Next step is mixing it with anycubic tough black, as Ive read the mixes are easier to dial in, but not sure how itll affect the flexibility of the shoe (70% siraya).

just got a photon mono 2 using anycubic resin and the first three prints stuck to the fep instead of the plate i levelled it three times and it still hasnt changed how can i fix this?

I was initially thrilled to get a Mars 4 and start this hobby, but physical and mental health problems have me second-guessing the whole thing (I've literally worried myself sick sometimes).

I've got a respirator with VOC filters, plenty of nitrile gloves, IPA-filled tubs to wash the prints, and a budget curing station.

Not pictured to the right is an open garage door

I thought my ventilation would be good enough, but I've regrettably cheaped out on that front and fear I might be paying the price for it. I won't have the money to afford stuff for that until next month. I just feel stuck.

Grettings, ive got a weird situation here, ive got a creatilty halot one pro a year ago, last night it was working fine and now the lcd is unable to do what its suposed to do, at first i thought it was an issue with the file so i used another one that worked before (the one shown in the video) and its the same, ive checked the connection of the cables and nothing, ive updated the firmware and nothing.

Anyone got a few ideas on how to solve it?

I know the obvious would be "replace the lcd screen", i did on december last year, and here i want it to be the last last choice.

Thanks in advance.

Hi, I’ve been working on this Wolverine fan art as a study and I’m trying to improve my workflow for multi-part collectibles.

I split the model for printing and added a 0.25 mm gap between the parts for assembly.

I’d really appreciate feedback from people with more printing experience:

– Is 0.25 mm a safe tolerance for most printers, or would you recommend adjusting it? – Do you see any potential problem areas for fitting or cleanup? – Anything in the way I cut the parts that could cause issues during printing or assembly?

The goal here is to make the model easier to print and assemble reliably, so any technical feedback is very helpful.

I can share more breakdowns if needed.

Thanks.

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