r/3Dprinting

I finally finished my biggest 3D printed puzzle project so far: Excalibur – The King’s Trial.

The idea was to build something that feels like a small escape room, but is still fully printable and buildable at home for anyone with a 3D printer. I wanted it to be more than just a display piece, so it includes real interaction: drawers, hidden buttons, rotating rings, magnets, lights, motors, and a medieval sword-in-the-stone scenario at the center.

The whole puzzle uses plug-and-play Maker Supply parts like buttons, LEDs, battery holders, cables, and motors. For me, that was one of the coolest parts of the build. It makes a much more complex object still feel approachable for people who mainly come from 3D printing, without needing programming or soldering.

In the video, I also show a short look inside the puzzle. Projects like this always get a bit cable-filled on the inside, but I tried to keep it as clean and buildable as possible without making the routing too complicated. If you want to see more of the electronics inside, you can check my assembly video Part 2 here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XPb\_d49aOzw

The finished version now also includes an optional plants-covered / overgrown stone version, plus additional shield designs, so the puzzle can be built in different looks.

The puzzle was also tested and approved by Bambu Lab / MakerWorld, so the complete Maker Supply kit should come to the store in the next days. It is currently part of a MakerWorld crowdfunding project, but the model page is already here:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/2681966-excalibur-the-puzzle

I also made a full solution & logic guide, because the puzzle has a lot of steps and I wanted it to be something people can actually understand, reset, and let others play.

This was a huge project for me, but I’m really happy with what came out of it: a 3D printed puzzle box / escape-room object that combines printing, mechanics, simple electronics, lighting, and a bit of storytelling.

My kids (grade school age) wanted to create a unique project for our Halloween yard display, so we decided on a creepy, scary deep sea fish theme for this year. I (dad) drafted this Angler Fish model in Fusion 360 based of a creepy picture my son found online. Our plan is to add to the creepy fish portfolio. We’re sharing the 1st one here, a creepy glow in the dark single color angler fish. I plan to upload a multicolor version with black body, red/glowing eyes, and glowing teeth soon also…I plan to test print that profile next!

We’ve shared the first print profile, which printed great in luminous rainbow PLA (which we ironically didn’t know glowed in the dark until after we printed it lol…we were pleasantly surprised!!!).

Please test it out and let us know what you think! Also, if you have suggestions for other creepy deep sea fish/creatures, let us know in the comments what we should add to the collection!

Printed on our Bambu A1 Combo that they received for Christmas!

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2811077-deep-sea-angler-fish-glow-in-the-dark-single-color#profileId-3128872

Brought the Flip back to life using ABS, TPU, and a bit of PLA. Tried to capture the quick process. Hope you guys like it :)

Hello Reddit.

I wanted to make handling and pouring large beverage cartons a bit easier for my family, so I designed this lattice-style handle and holder.

It’s fully customizable model based on OpenSCAD. I’ve already set up presets on the MakerWorld Customizer for standard US Half-Gallons and smaller buttermilk/creamer cartons, but you can easily tweak the parameters for any rectangular container (like 2L international sizes), just pick "Custom" in the customizer and configure your own parameters.

Tip if customizing: Measure the width and height of your target carton with calipers and add at least 1mm of clearance—if the fitment is too tight, it will be tough to slide the empty carton out!

Print Details:

• Filament: PETG (highly recommended for fridge/moisture resistance) or PLA.
• Settings: 2–3 walls, no supports needed.
• Weight: ~200g (2 walls) to ~240g (3 walls) for the US half-gallon size.

The lattice pattern keeps the print time down and the weight light (vs a full walls) while keeping it plenty rigid when holding a brand-new, full carton.

Link to the model/customizer: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2780058-milk-juice-carton-handle-fully-customizable

The Deposition Sound FDMs8 🔈🔉🔊

- 6kg of Polymaker Fiberon Pet-cf17, Tpu 90a (feet)

- Approx 250hrs of print time (4 parts together + feet)

- Printed on two Qidi Xmax3's

- Dayton Audio 8 inch cone and 100watt amp (sold as kit on site)

- Sanded, clear coated and armour all for sealing / protection.

It was a super fun project, it's one that sits below the living room TV that is functional and will outlast most other subwoofers (it's 3d printed tough) Sounds AMAZING!!!

I'll be buying a FDMDuo or Geo kit soon enough I'm sure 😅

Cheers 🥂

I had a spool of 7-year-old PLA from a defunct Spanish company called BQ. I had to rewind it because the spool did not fit the AMS. Went to bed and woke up to this mess. The PLA has apparently exploded. It was so stiff due to the years so this was kind of expected anyway, I'm not even mad, just impressed. Good thing it happened within the container.

Hey all!
I just modeled up this little wall mounted rock crack and climbing nut to easily hang your keys by the door! Minimal print using only 28g of filament! Hope you enjoy!

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2823468-rock-climbing-key-hanger-rock-and-nut

I told this to my sister and then my fiancee, but neither of them seemed to appreciate it. So I gotta try the 3D printing community.

Last night I was doing my first proper multi color print on Ender 3 V3 SE, I say proper because I have done two in the past, but they all had just a single color change, this had multiple. Everything started off great, I was properly swapping filament each time. But I noticed that it did an over-extrusion (creating blob) each time it went to the prime tower. Those blobs added up to where you could hear the extruder going over them, but I decided to keep going since there were only one or two more color changes left.

I did my last color change and thought that it was all over, i was so wrong... As the extruder went to the model I realized it was missing it, it was unaligned on the X axis by about 10mm. I paused the print and tried to manually move the extruder, which didn't work. So I turned off the machine, move the extruder all the way to the left. Turned it back on and resumed the print, everything seemed to be back to normal...

20 minutes later I came back to check if everything is going well, only to see that nothing has changed. The extruder head was moving as it's supposed to, but nothing was coming out. As there was no visible clog from the outside, I touched the filament only for it to come loose. I (probably) didn't push it all the way in... Not wanting to give up on the print I let the machine run, while I attempt to edit the gcode in notepad. Since the last color change was on layer 7, I removed everything between the first layer and Z:1.4. Turned the machine off, remove the card, copied the new gcode and then let it do it's thing. It actually worked. Everything was back to normal after that.

Ps. I'll post my (default) prime tower settings in a comment, if someone can help me figure ot what wrong. I think the blob appears on the first extrusion after each color change, the other lines it prints seem normal.

TLDR: over-extrusion on prime tower caused blobs, which made the extruder unaligned. My mistake on the last filament swap, caused it to run for 20 minutes without printing anything. A gcode edit saved the print.

Printed an IronMan helmet - used automotive paint and activated clear coat for blue and electroplated copper for face and jaw.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2823560-universal-parametric-appliance-knob-generator#profileId-3144833

I recently had a knob break on a 40 year old stove, and finding a matching replacement was a nightmare. So, I built a "one script to rule them all" knob generator in OpenSCAD.

It's highly detailed:

• 40+ Parameters: Total control over every curve, angle, and dimension.
• Unique "Nose Angle" Logic: Recreate that specific sloped look on industrial bar handles.
• Intelligent Edges: Choose between Fillets, Chamfers, or Spherical tops that won't break the geometry.
• Hardware Clearances: Integrated bottom recess for mounting nuts and raised hubs.
• Pro Indicators: Place indicators on the body OR the grip, with adjustable depth and angle.

It supports:

• Professional Finishes: Add fillets, chamfers, or spherical tops to match original equipment perfectly.
• Advanced Bar Handles: Customizable length, width, taper, and sloped "nose" angles for indicator ends.
• Styles: Bar Handle, Fluted, Knurled, Skirted, Pointer, and Classic smooth.
• Shafts: D-shafts, Round shafts, and Splined/Star shafts (with adjustable tolerance).
• Indicators: Recessed lines, dots, or physical pointers (on the knob or the grip).
• Universal Fit: Includes a bottom indent option for appliances with raised mounting nuts or hubs.

It's been great for fixing old stoves, guitar amps, and even some lab equipment.

Pro-tip for printing: If you're using it for a stove, definitely use a high-temp material like ASA or at least PETG. PLA will eventually sag from the ambient heat of the oven!

Hope this helps someone else fix their "unfixable" vintage gear!

For the baseball players out there. Prevent pancakes and print this to stick in your gear bag. Indent on the back for holding it in place or just display your glove on your desk.

https://makerworld.com/models/2824189?appSharePlatform=copy

All the ready-to-buy door flaps were either too small or too pricey. Decided to design and print my own. Total size measures 14"W x17"D

I'm new to 3d modelling (and printing), this is my first functional model. It would be a fun learning project to create this as a parametric design for future iterations. Would love any constructive feedback on how to improve!

Makerworld link

I've had to make 3 runs to the hardware store just today. This is a radio controlled tracked chassis I've been slowly working on. Today I'm just finishing up the tracks and printing some test pieces to see how smooth they roll. The goal is to have a quick change turret system for an excavator, tank turret with a 12mm air cannon and autoloader as well as a 6mm coaxial, and robot arm. Total project cost is gonna hit well above $500. Possibly up to $1000. I have to learn arduino too.

I've always loved mixing mediums. For this dark fantasy prop, my wife and I combined an FDM 3D printed mechanical heart with a custom laser-cut wooden box.

The heart is a dense 3D print that my wife post-processed and hand-painted with metallics to hide all the layer lines and give it a heavy, iron look. The box was laser cut and engraved with gothic patterns to let the internal LEDs shine through the silk. It was super fun to design something where the laser-cut parts and the 3D printed parts complement each other so well!

If you have access to a 3D printer and/or a laser cutter, I've shared all the files for free:

🫀 3D Files (Heart):https://makerworld.com/it/models/2823799-gothic-snow-white-reliquary-hybrid-prop#profileId-3145208📦 Laser Cut Files (Box):https://www.atomm.com/it/project/123363-gothic-reliquary-box-laser-cut-and-engrave-for-cosplay-or-decor?utm_source=copylink&utm_medium=referral&utm_campaign=sharetoearn2&utm_id=317363

I have had several prints that do this, where filament just sticks out of the side. I have had it happen both on PLA and this is currently PETG. I have a Bambu lab A1. Is there a setting I have wrong or something? Anyone know how to fix this?

Edited to add: this is a model from makerworld. I used Bambu slicer to slice and print. I slowed the speed for the first layer (it didn’t adhere when I tried to print it yesterday) but otherwise it is printing at normal (?) non adjusted speed.

TL;DR: The Software Freedom Conservancy (SFC) has officially launched an investigation and a multi-pronged counter-offensive against Bambu Lab for AGPLv3 license violations and aggressive legal behavior toward open-source developers. ‼️

https://sfconservancy.org/news/2026/may/18/bambu-studio-3d-printer-agpl-violation-response/

The Software Freedom Conservancy (SFC) released a statement confirming that Bambu Lab is in violation of the Affero General Public License (AGPLv3). According to the SFC, Bambu has failed to provide the complete corresponding source code for Bambu Studio by pairing the slicer with a proprietary networking library (libbambu_networking). Additionally, the SFC condemned Bambu's recent "scare tactics" and legal aggression against open-source developer Paweł Jarczak (creator of OrcaSlicer forks) as a direct violation of AGPLv3 terms, which strictly forbid imposing further restrictions on users' rights.

Instead of waiting for slow-moving legal action, the SFC is taking a community-first approach and has announced the launch of Project Baltobu:

1. Reverse-Engineering: A community effort to reverse-engineer Bambu’s proprietary networking libraries to create a fully open-source, drop-in replacement.

2. Orca Slicer Support: Taking over the canonical maintenance of Paweł’s Orca Slicer fork under the SFC umbrella to shield volunteers from Bambu’s legal threats.

3. Viscose: An active, fully-liberated fork of Bambu Studio to give consumers a better, entirely open software alternative.

The SFC is also establishing a standing committee for 3D printing software Right-to-Repair and is actively fundraising to dedicate a full-time staffer to hold Bambu Lab accountable.