I have a 1997 Honda civic DX, 1.6 L 4 cylinder.

The issue it’s been having is after driving it some (anything over 10 minutes) the hose connecting the radiator and the coolant reservoir pops off

I assume it’s a head gasket issue, even though the oil isn’t milky it does look like oil builds up in the coolant reservoir. And I assume the hose pops off because of engine pressure getting into the coolant system.

All that being said. What do I need to replace a head gasket? I know I need a whole slew of gaskets and bolts that are all one time use. But what are all the gaskets and bolts called? And what tools am I going to need to invest in? Does anyone know a good head gasket changing video for a 1996-98 civic?

Ive tried pulling on it gently still doesnt work and i cand find any info on how to get to the mechanism so i can repair or replace it

Like many cars this one cuts alternator voltage for better fuel economy during low load events.

The problem I'm having is the voltage is dropping when I accelerate. Watching live data it goes from 14ish to 12 ish at half throttle or more. Let off and 14v's returns. It's noticeable with the headlights on and you can hear the hvac fan slow down.

There is a single wire on the side which I assume is either commanding the nator or sending data. Unplugged I get 14ish v's all the time.

My question is WTF. Well what is the process it uses to drop voltage. Is there a module somewhere that could be replaced? A little research points to this black box right off the negative terminal but I can't find anyone else with the same issue.

Hi everyone.

I have a 2007 DRZ 400 sm for about a year now, and it gave me lots of problems.

Seems i still have to understand what's wrong with the electric implant, but that's another story.

I start by saying this is my first bike and i dont know much about mechanics.

One morning i go to the garage and i try to start the bike but didn't start (dead battery or alternator) i was late for work so i start panic and i start try to jumpstart. I was panicking so instead of dumping the clutch in 2nd , i do it in 1st. Nothing, i then give up for the day. Put the battery on charge and i decide to try another day. I know that probably i did some damage while trying to jumpstart in 1st, im an idiot, i know.

With full battery, the bike start but cant move. (When i release the clutch is like the chain is being stucked on something. The chain was actually kinda old and for sure i would have had to replace it. I tried putting on a stand to let the rear wheel spin and try to see what's happened. I don't really know what could be (except maybe pinion or sprocket) and how to explain it. While letting the wheel spin i could clearly see it wasnt spinning smoothly ( in gear obv ). Could it be that something snapped while tryng to jumpstart the thing?

I don't know if its worth fixing it or just selling it for spare parts or if i should just rebuild the engine. Again i know im stupid af, but i would like to see if i can save the bike.

Sorry for the long message guys.

Thx 2 everyone who reads/respond to this

Thanks to everyone.

My Ford has been having battery issues lately. Sometimes it starts fine, other times it barely cranks. I’m not sure if it’s the battery, alternator, or something draining power overnight.

Hey everyone,

I have a 2008 Mitsubishi Lancer GTS with 138,000 miles (original CVT transmission). I've only done routine oil changes, no transmission fluid changes because it wasn't mentioned in the owner's manual. The car needs new control arms and outer tie rods. I got a quote of around $2,000 for the full job including alignment.

I'm currently in California and will be moving to Florida (will ship the car) for work in the near future (driving ~5,000 miles per year once I'm settled). Importantly, I'm not noticing any transmission issues at all right now — shifts are smooth and normal.

AI is suggesting I sell it because the transmission might fail soon, and to use the money toward a newer car.

Quick questions for those familiar with these cars:

• If I get the control arms and tie rods done now, do a proper transmission fluid change, and then maintain it routinely going forward, what's the realistic chance this car lasts me another 3 years?
• Is it worth sinking money into the suspension + trans service before a cross-country move, or should I just sell/trade it as-is and buy something more reliable in FL?

thanks!