2020 A180 Mercedes
175.000 KM on the odometer.
Car drives fine, doesn’t smell and doesn’t smoke.
Was looking to buy this car, everything looks great but when i opened the oil cap this is what i saw.
Not my car but a close friend got stranded like 4 hours away from where we live.
Just bought this truck, reverse lasted all of about two days. 1993 gmc sierra 1500, single cab short bed, 5.7/4L60e.
bought it, was told it had a shift kit in it, truck is very solid into gear and quick between the forward gears. VERY solid into 2nd gear, enough to jerk the truck.
reverse at time of purchase was working, but felt odd.
Putting it into gear, it would take anywhere from 2-5 seconds for it to find reverse, then it would be a weak engagement for a few seconds then a more solid engagement. I drove the truck home ~45 miles, worked on it some, and put a thermostat in it since it was never getting up to temp, and that first drive when it was getting up to 195ish was when it quit. It would drop the rpm slightly, but it was effectively a 2nd neutral.
For about 3 days after, if it was cold, I had reverse. Now, with fresh fluid and filter, it's got basically no reverse whatsoever. it still drops the rpm slightly, but will not move backwards at all. All forward gears still feel solid. video is from when I pulled the pan down. Ideas on how to fix this? or is it just hosed and needs rebuilt?
Was being percussive when I should not have been and made a booboo on the farm truck. Battery Is cracked by the post, wondering if it'd be safe to run? I am too poor to afford another battery atm. I won't be dailying it yet but is it safe to run without fear of major leaks? Or will it leak at all?
2013 Hyundai genesis 3.8
Did an oil change on a 3.8 Hyundai genesis and turned the car on for 5 min. When I came out a giant oil leak occurred due to oil filter being loose. I’m so fucking scared that the engine is toasted from it, before I turned it off the engine sounded good and no lights came on
Are the Air Intake Inlet Duct Hose necessary for this car? My car does not have one purchase it pre-owned a mechanic told me it needed one when re-adjusting the front bumper.
Current car is Mazda MX-30 REV hybrid which has the Wankel engine which is known to eat through oil. Just got the message saying oil level is low so looking to top up. The manual says that accepted oil types are 0w20 or 5w30, the shop near me has 0w30 at the correct specification (ACEA A5/B5), will this be okay for a top up? Or should I look for 0w20 or 5w30? TIA!
2017 Altima SV 2.5L - 140,000 miles
Had to delete and repost because I posted the full video, not the clipped.
TL;DR - Rough idle and I'm not good and interpreting data streams. Is this a possible vacuum leak or my cheap MAF replacement? Or am I reading this entirely wrong? Video shows start of drive to work, merging onto the interstate.
Have had a rough idle for some time (just over a year?) and it's gotten worse. Codes that have come up since are:
B02A70 - IPDM - came back once before, but hasn't come back since I last cleared it early last year.
P0101 - MAF sensor - The original was confirmed bad, so I did replace it with an aftermarket in the short-term for a hopefully quick fix and performed an idle relearn. I will be getting an OEM /Hitachi unit soon to replace it.
I've never had a check engine light until last Wednesday where I was speeding up on the interstate. I could feel that it was lower on power, gaining speed slower than usual, then trhe light came on. checked the code and P0101 was back again.
Cleared it and had it pop up again on Wednesday during similar conditions. It hasn't come up again since, but I know it's a matter of time.
The car has never stalled nor has it ever had trouble starting. I cleaned the throttle body about 4 months ago, installed new spark plugs and coils last april, and at one point DID have a misfire code in cylinder 3 after new plugs/coils, but has never come back since.
I'm not great at interpreting live data and would REALLY appreciate someone's insight/advice? I keep going back to a possible vacuum leak which would be my next test. I was also thinking I should change the O2 sensors regardless considering the mileage and that they've never been changed, but I don't want to start throwing money at it especially when a full tank is going to run me $80...
The video is a screen recording using torque for my drive to work this morning. This is about when I was merging onto the interstate.
Data includes short and long term fuel trims, O2 upstream and downstream, MAF in grams, revs, and fuel status to show when decelerating.
Note: I do have a better scanner (Launch) but I left it in the house before I left and this was a time saver. Worth noting that the resdings were similar if not the same.
Never seen this before - the ground connection on the brake light bulb has burned out.
I'm surprised there was enough current there to do this - signs of a bigger problem, or just clean it up, replace the bulb and move on?
Hello, I have a 2010 Honda Civic and whenever I turn right, a weird sound happens. It sounds like a metal lid wobbling on a table or like that sound when you spin a prize wheel. It’s not super loud, it’s a faint sound, but I am not sure what I should be looking for if it’s an easy fix. If anyone has any insight, I’d appreciate it. Thanks!
Vehicle is a 2015 Jeep Wrangler. Dealer is saying the brake booster needs to be replaced because the pedal is soft, "gives away" and has excessive travel. They say there can be an internal leak.
Is it possible for a leaking vacuum system to cause a soft pedal? Jeep still stops, and pretty well too.
New front hoses, calipers, pads and Master cylinder. Manual and ABS bled 100 times before gave up and took to dealer.
As I’ve had many many many people reply to that post and ask me what happened I just wanted to make a whole update post.
I did not get fired. I’m still actively working and right now required 6 days a week. Last week I worked 6 days. This week I work 6 days and next week I do too if that says anything.
My managers didn’t even talk to me about it other than when one of them asked me if I knew any update on that 2022 Subaru Ascent.
My other manager asked me later in the day laughing and joking “did you strip any more oil pans?”
They deemed it the other dealerships fault and nothing was on me. I did my job right and shit just happens.
I double checked my torque wrench and lowered the ftlbs by a couple. I will keep torquing drain plugs because to me it’s more secure than just trying to get it tight with a ratchet.
To the comment that said I’m a “DEI…..🤦” hire. So what if I am. I get hella compliments and praised for my videos and the work I do. I have advisors give me stuff like plugs and stuff that main shop can’t find and I find it no problem. I was going to college for automotive tech before some things happened. Shit is gonna happen and even if it was a guy doesn’t mean he is a DEI hire. I’ve had male coworkers mess up wayyyyy worse than I did and not get fired. I’m just a woman and I panicked. That’s all.
But thank you to everyone who was reassuring and not rude about it especially because I’m a woman. I’m just trying to be me and learn. I love cars. I loved working on them with my grandpa and my dad. So screw anyone who says woman can’t be a mechanic. I just helped my coworker lift a 450lb engine. So screw anyone who says a woman can’t be strong. But thank you and I appreciate everyone and anyone who is kind to me or any other woman wanting to be in a blue collar job
2017 Hyundai Elantra
Car had sluggish acceleration and weird idle when coming to a complete stop. Then stopping twice on the way home multiple warning lights appeared and no power at all. When turned off and back on car ran normal again. Took to a shop two days later and no issues detected and car was running fine for them. Any ideas?
The fuel gauge of my boat suddenly started acting up, what could it be? Everything else seems to be working as expected
(repost because the pictures didn't upload) This morning when starting my 2020 Peugeot 208 1.2l it came up with the oil pressure warning light as shown. I checked the dipstick tonight once I got home because my car was parked on a slope this morning. The oil level is right in the middle of the lines which is leading me to worry that the issue is the wet belt degrading and clogging the sensor or something...
This is what the oil looks like from the dipstick and cap. Can anybody tell anything from this? I think it looks quite dirty but I'm no expert. The belt looks completely fine to me tok (if that's actually what I'm looking at through the oil cap).
It's done exactly 25,000 miles at 6 years old. No wet belt replacement as far as I've been told so it is likely due a replacement. I had it serviced two months ago and they never mentioned any issues.
Going to phone a dealer in the morning and no doubt they'll ask me to bring it in anyway. I may be getting worried over nothing and it just needs an oil top up but I'd rather be safe than sorry. Cheers in advance, I hope this post isn't too ramble-y.
I recently did a wheel alignment on my rav4 which has roughly 120k miles. The mechanic gave me this print out and he said the car should be fine but it still pulls to the left when steering wheel is on the center. Is this correct or okay?
Hey everyone I currently own a 96 Acura Integra and one issue I’ve had was my car shutting off after driving for a while an example would be driving 25-30 minutes stopping to get gas or stopping and turning the car off to go do something for 5 minutes then try to turn it on and it wouldn’t start up again. This usually happened when it was hot outside like around 60 or 70 to 80 degrees outside when it’s cold It will start right up. Just a second ago I got gas and it’s nice out 55 degrees and warm outside I had asked people beofre they said it could be the ignitor/ icm or distributor I think all of these are inside the distributor so I got a new one out it on and when I did it jumped timing but I then fixed this issue and car was working for a week until today. Now sorry if this is a lot of rambling but to get to the point my battery has died several times when I replaced the distributor and now at the gas station I’m wondering if you guys think I may have a parasitic drawl, or battery is dead because I left car on for music when getting gas but was there for maybe a minute or two and it wouldn’t start up it cracks but doesn’t turn over. I’m also unsure if I have a practice drawl or something else because three fuses went out all for my running low beam lights right low beam light and right day time light not sure if that would affect anything. Anyone who’s willing to help me out can either hit me here or hit me up on insta at dc.tobesss I’m really hoping to get this fixed before summer hits because ik once it does this car will turn off all the time. Also one last thing is I had a crack sensor code one time but it went away and never came back on so idk if that could cause this issue or if the ground wire from body to engine could cause this. Ik I have to replace stuff but just wondering what I can do. And where to even start since this is my daily😭 Ik I messed up there.