r/WLED

Hello, I just found out about this community and im very interested. I just bought a set of BTF-LIGHTING WS2815 from amazon thats being controlled by a esp-32 but im currently only getting 1 led to turn on. Im not sure why but I would love some help if others have done this combo before.

thanks

Been trying to come up with some seasonal effects. I've used Gemini to help me try out different effects based on descriptions I feed it. But it doesn't "know" WLED very well. It suggests effects and pallettes that don't exist sometimes. And ones it chooses based on my description can be wildly off. Wondering if others know of a good AI that knows WLED better? Particularly the latest versions (15.4 or 16.0)? Gemini is better than me just guessing, but still a long way from very helpful.

Hey everyone, I’m a total beginner working on my first project and need some broad advice on my power setup.

What I have:

• 1 meter of a 144-LED strip (5V)
• ESP32 C3 Mini board
• No power supply yet

My constraints & questions:

1. Can I run this off USB-C alone? Is the USB-C port on the ESP32 mini enough to power all 144 LEDs, or will it draw too much current and fry the board?
2. Form Factor: Because of space constraints, I cannot use a large, open-frame industrial power supply. It needs to be compact and fully enclosed (like a laptop brick). What should I look for?
3. Wiring: If USB-C isn't enough, how do I safely wire the enclosed power supply, the ESP32, and the LED strip together?
4. Final question: My 144-led strip doesn't have text labels (+5V, Data, GND) on the copper pads because they are so dense, just numbers and arrows (image attached). How do I know which pad is which?These are the led 1M, 144, Ip30. https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005004129769604.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.35.2ce55c5fh9YPzr&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu#nav-review

https://preview.redd.it/ossfcstj552h1.jpg?width=1536&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a10ca48907ec24d2579ac803ad939d7d7e20edfa

I'm looking to install some 24V white FCOB under a cabinet. It says they're dimmable, but are these something where you just use a PWM controller like an ESP32 or GLEDOPTO controller?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0D9Q5FR68/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?th=1

I want to remotely control them from Home Assistant, so WLED would work, but in this application I wouldn't mind a more traditional in-wall dimmer but haven't seen one that is both remote controllable and 24V.

I’m using a BanlanX SP548E controller with COB RGB lighting strips. I successfully connected it to Wi-Fi/cloud and Alexa can now:

• turn the lights on/off
• change colors
• control brightness

However, I cannot find ANY way to save custom static colors/scenes inside the BanlanX app.

A lot of posts/videos say:

• “just save the scene”
• “use the DIY section”
• “switch from Bluetooth to Wi-Fi/cloud mode”

…but in my version of the app there is literally nowhere to save anything. The DIY section appears empty/non-interactive. Long-pressing does nothing. There are no “+” buttons, save icons, naming dialogs, etc.

Questions:

1. Does the SP548E firmware actually support saving static custom scenes/colors for COB strips?
2. Is this feature hidden somewhere unintuitive in newer BanlanX app versions?
3. Is scene saving only available for RGBIC/effects/music modes?
4. Is there any workaround to get Alexa to trigger exact RGB/hex values instead of approximate named colors?

I have a bunch of the APPECK C6612-C Landscape Light Kits. This version of the kit has 4 lighting fixtures controllable by the SMART LIFE app. I really like the fixtures but their controllers are flakey and have failed on me multiple times. Is there a way I could use a small WLED controller to take these lights over?

The most common approach to handling RGBW LED strips/diodes is to simply take the minimum components of the input value, set white to that value, and subtract the residuals from R, G & B. This is not inherently incorrect but it does introduce a problem in that the white diode is not perfect. Most white diodes have different color temperatures and when actually measured you'll find using min(rgb) Channel - Residuals produces a white this is off-white.

Now the question becomes "how do we accurately extract white?" The answer is shockingly simple and it comes down to colorspaces & gamut.

In a typical RGB LED system your native gamut is a triangle where your main emitters R, G, & B are your only centroids. Each centroid lives somewhere on the CIE chart and has it's own xy coordinates. This creates a triangle where any combination of values can be created using the 3 emitters. Typical colorspaces like Rec709, Rec2020, etc.. all live somewhere either within this gamut or outside of it.

In an RGBW LED system instead we have 4 different addressable gamuts within this triangle

• RGBW Gamut comprises of the entire RGBW triangle that can be addressed over
• RGW gamut, BGW gamut, RBW gamut

so the problem changes from "how do we represent a color with these 3 diodes" to "which sub-gamut does the requested color fall into, and then within the sub-gamut how do we represent the color requested using the outer 2 primary diodes + inner white diode?"

The "Color" problem:

Different RGB input values map to different places in the CIE colorspace depending on the requested colorspace and reference white. "orange" for the native gamut is not the same "orange" as Rec709, just as that same "orange" is not the same in Rec2020. If you want to represent a color in the Rec709 space (aka ambilight setup) then you need a Colorspace transform to solve for that value. This effectively maps the native-gamut to the effective colorspace.

The ratio problem:

Addressable LEDs (most strips/diodes) do not have perfect LED selections. Typically speaking the red & blue diodes are fairly weak maxing out at low brightness values, G is typically stronger, with White being strongest almost always. In the case of my recent ambilight-focused measurements, the BTF Lighting 6000k RGBW LEDs produce max Nits/ XYZ Y values of R: 154.67 G:566.27 B:129.64 W:1543.64

so given that the red diode is much less bright than the green diode you need to scale input values down appropriately to accurately reproduce the color requested. For a cyan (input 0 65535 65535) for this specific set of LEDs with the off-wall measurements, the corrected output values become: 0 65458 38474 0 which when measured with a colorimeter produces a dE of ~0.519 from the expected measurement result

for D65 white (65535, 65535, 65535) the output RGBW tuple looks something like : 4289 0 13766 65535 which also passes the dE check at 1.720% within tolerance

So to summarize:

Min(rgb) and then subtract residuals from R, B, & G is not inherently wrong if that is what the actual diode behavior is, but the correct approach is to treat the LEDs as they are: Separate emitters that form a full gamut with multiple sub-gamuts, and then only solve within the sub-gamuts for the requested color value determined by a colorspace transform if the input color isn't addressing the native gamut of the LED display.

In a typical RGBW setup the valid topology combinations are essentially as follows: R, B, G, W, RW, BW, GW, RG, RB, BG, RGW, BGW, RBW unless you specifically allow for 4-channel overdrive outputs.

I'm starting to plan my landscape lighting.  I had a friend that does work with VOLT/AMP to layout what they would do (See attached Pic) so I can then adapt it to some addressable RGBW landscape lighting, it's not exactly what I'm doing but will be very similar.  I bought the below lights (1 of each) from Ray Wu AliExpress to test out and will most likely use them for entire project.  Have some questions and hoping to get some guidance.

 LIGHTS:

1. 10W RGBW 12V UCS2904 30 degree beam
2. 10W RGBW 12V USC2904 Flood
3. 10W RGBW 12V USC2904 Spot 5 degree
4. 12W RGBW 12V USC2904 Spot 120 degree
5. 12W RGBW 12V USC2904 Path

 RUNS:

#1/YELLOW - 15 lights about 120 feet from PSU  (Lights start approximately 20' from planned NEMA)

#2/RED - 10 lights about 150 feet from PSU  (2 Lights next to NEMA, rest about 100')

#3/GREEN - 12 lights about 120 feet from PSU (Lights start approximately 20' from NEMA)

#4/ORANGE - 8 lights about 150 feet from PSU (lights start approximately 50' from NEMA)

 QUESTIONS:

1. Should I use a QuinLed DigiOcta in NEMA everything home runs there - concern is the AWG of wire from there to lights, probably would need 8AWG based off some initial calculations.
2. Use Digi Uno's for each run and setup PSU in NEMA at start or very close to each run?  Running 120V AC to each box?
3. RUN 1 & 3 - Setup 2x Diga Unos/NEMA at Home Base & RUN 2 & 4 put in Digi Unos/NEMA at start of run hidden in landscape bed?
4. Concern if I have DigiUnos at start of each run, Would the WiFi be strong enough if their in an ABS NEMA and I have an access point outside?  OR should I run ethernet to each location, I've always been a hardwire is best if possible guy.
5. Anything you see I'm missing? Or another route that would be best?

 

(planning to use direct burial wire vs. conduit)

Thanks in advance!!

https://preview.redd.it/44uqd32oar1h1.png?width=5296&format=png&auto=webp&s=35c89bb0e3170a97bd03a317957f30cf912fedfe