u/wivaca2

I'm looking to install some 24V white FCOB under a cabinet. It says they're dimmable, but are these something where you just use a PWM controller like an ESP32 or GLEDOPTO controller?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0D9Q5FR68/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?th=1

I want to remotely control them from Home Assistant, so WLED would work, but in this application I wouldn't mind a more traditional in-wall dimmer but haven't seen one that is both remote controllable and 24V.

I've used Macrium for over 10 years. I formerly ran Macrium Reflect 8.1 to image my disk weekly and had it set to "Incrementals Forever". In this mode it updates the last full backup with the latest changes so that you always have a single, complete image, but backup time is comparable to just an incremental. When it did this, the original backup's last modified date became the same as the most recent incremental backup file.

Using a Macrium X subscription, I've set it up the same way, but don't see the original image file's date changing.

I'm going to put a specific "marker" file on the disk that I know was added since the last backup, then look for it in the full image after the next backup to verify, but have they changed how this works?

My wife does genealogy and comes to me with various photo restoration and correction questions. Today, she brought me a scan of a book page someone else did from long ago. She wants to make look like it's flat. The page slightly rolls away from the scanner surface as it approaches the binding.

To me, that would require some kind of dynamic aspect ratio stretch that has no effect on the flat part of the page, but a progressively stronger X coordinate stretch as it approaches the left edge nearest the binding. It's legible, so the original party who scanned it must have been pushing down a bit, and it appears NOT to curve up or down, just away from the scan bed.

I have the latest Photoshop, but short of creating a warp mesh and adjusting manually, is there any quick and dirty method to alter the stretch so that it is more aggressive as it approaches the book binding?

Anyway, I could not be the hero on this one for her, so I'm asking those who know more than me.

Our home was built in 1996 and has recessed can lights in our kitchen and hallways. A long time ago, we replaced all our incandescent bulbs with dimmable LEDs and they've worked great ever since. I never even think about them and they're all connected to dimming smart switches. It just works.

Everywhere I go, I see sealed LED units to retrofit can lights. These either connect directly to 115V wiring or have a threaded medium bulb base that screws into the legacy light bulb sockets of the existing fixtures..

My question is, what is the benefit of these over just keeping dimmable LED bulbs/floods? Is this focused on those who continued to use incandescent and never bought LED bulbs?

I'm entirely comfortable swapping 115V fixtures and switches, but is this just a aesthetic thing so there isn't any space between the bulb and trim cover or is there some other reason I'd want to put these in instead? Our attic has feet upon feet of insulation, so we're not feeling any kind of draft or air movement which is about the only thing I can come up with to justify them outside of visual appearance.

I'm running a 32GB partition for HAOS, and after some recent ESPHome builds it says I'm running out of disk space.

It's easy enough to expand the VHDX using HyperV, but then the Guest OS has to expand the partition, too.

How is that done (can it be done?) in HAOS?

I have a Jet JWBS-18 floor-standing bandsaw that has the black twist knobs to hold the saw cabinet top and bottom doors shut. Both broke over the years, and even when new, they sometimes vibrated loose. I looked around for replacements now and then, but couldn't find any.

I wanted to put my 2 month old 3D printer to good use, so I spent the past couple of hours making a replacement in Fusion. The thin part that breaks off is a solid infill and the overall diameter is slightly bigger for more strength. I also designed it so that when it's fully tight, the post drops into a relief and the tension keeps it from backing out unless you twist it with your hand.

Honestly, a lever would probably be a better design, but I wanted the CAD challenge.

Anyone else have these break and have any interest in this? I'm still refining it because the domed top on the illustration below doesn't provide a nice finish. I'm changing it to flat with a larger fillet at the perimeter, then maybe ironing it to give it a smooth finish that won't catch dust.

Jet Bandsaw Cabinet Door Latch

I've recently built some 8x32 matrix displays using WLED or Awtrix. The size and thickness of these displays is pretty compact and lightweight, but the current requirements mean they need a brick of a power supply and can get quite warm.

That's tolerable but sometimes I want to place these on top of bookshelves or someplace where I'd need a longer cord. My choices are either an extension cord or a 5V extension cable with barrel connectors.

I've been looking around wondering if there are any 12V or 24V versions that still have individually addressable pixels unlike the strips of those voltages so their current requirements and wire gauges would be more reasonable. Current is the chief instigator of heat, too, so they would probably run cooler.

Has anyone seen a 12V or 24V individual addressable pixel display? It's getting so it would be more energy efficient to run a small monitor and get far better resolution.