Is the use of sheet-fed gravure presses very low in countries like Europe and America?
Retrofitting UV Curing System on Sheet-fed Gravure Press
Retrofitting UV Curing System on Sheet-fed Gravure Press
Is this common on a glue hardbound book? The white areas in center that, to me, should be blue. I'm being told that it passes QC.
Is there anything I can do to soften these cracked edges on a 100# single fold piece? We were in a rush and need to use tomorrow. Either a bone folder or bees wax to soften…? Just what Google suggested. Wasn’t sure if there was a way to do this. Not looking for perfection - just “better” - thanks!
As post title says- never seen this print defect before. What would be the cause for something like this? Encoder strip? Print head? RIP software issue?
I’m looking to organize my workflow heavily and looking at some different softwares. I wanted to know if anybody had any recommendations?
I currently have infoflo. They’re alright but I can’t handle how slow it is.
I don't want them to go to waste, but I haven't found any legitimate use for them.
Noticed something lately, a lot of small shops around me that were strictly offset or screen print a few years ago are now quietly adding DTF, wide format, sublimation, sometimes all three. not because they planned to, but because the alternative was losing customers to someone who could do it all under one roof.
i get it, i've done the same thing honestly. but there's a part of me that wonders if we're all just spreading ourselves thin trying to compete with larger shops on volume and variety instead of just being really really good at one thing.
the economics make sense short term, keep the customer, add the service, move on. but the equipment, the learning curve, the inconsistent quality while you're figuring it out, that stuff has a real cost too.
anyone else feel like specialisation is becoming a luxury only bigger shops can afford now? or is diversifying actually the smarter long term play for small operations
The design was created in Inkscape and is vectorized and will hopefully be printed onto a watch dial made from smooth carbonized wood . These are zoomed in. I called out some bits from the design and hoping I can get some feedback to see if these are done in a way that would give a successful print. I have never designed my own design before for pad printing so want to make sure I am not facing any printing mountains to climb. I know pad printing can give stupidly fine results.
I’m looking for user feedback specific to these models, including pros, cons, issues, overall opinions, and any comments on the controllers (PRISMAsync and AccurioPro).
We are downsizing our print room location while aiming to keep the organization’s mixed media jobs in-house. Efficiency, reliability, user-friendliness, and responsive service (Eastern Ontario) are all critical to our operations, as we regularly handle urgent and last-minute jobs.
Any feedback would be greatly appreciated as we finalize the RFP review and prepare our recommendation. These are the two proponents remaining in the running. Thanks!
One red flag I noticed is when suppliers avoid talking about mistakes, replacements, or customer support. Every production company eventually has issues at some point. The difference is whether they actually help fix the problem quickly or disappear once the order is paid for.
I work for a print shop that is an HP dealer in the Midwest for DesignJet - Z6 and Z9 and HP Pagewide XL and HP Pagewide XL Pro.
Would you be Ok drop shipping a machine to you or want it installed and done locally ? We cover a large region in the Midwest and I’m trying to guage how far to reach for customers. Also what people are open to….from our HQ in the Midwest we have set up and installed machines 3.5-4 hours away for customers.
That's it. In Photoshop, if you want to convert an image into duotone, you first need to reduce it into grayscale, destroying color information. My tool tries to find the best color combination (or you can choose your desired two colors) and do the trick.
Totally free, no register, no catches. But I'd love to receive your feedback. 😄
Looking to have 4 different illustrations printed at 150 pieces each, for a total of 600 pieces.
Anybody capable of this or can recommend a commercial printer? Needs to be high quality and archival.
in U.S.
Im a Mimaki Dealer in the SF Bay Area, Oakland, come book a demo in our showroom to see the UJ330H live.
Need advice from high-volume vinyl decal producers.
We’re evaluating a 2-year production project of ~350,000 individually kiss-cut + die-cut cast vinyl decals, likely produced on a Summa S3 TC160.
The main challenge is not the cutting itself, but optimizing the weeding workflow at scale while minimizing manual labor as much as possible.
Client requirements appear to be:
- kiss-cut
- full weeding
- individually die-cut stickers
The challenge is finding the most efficient and industrially viable method to remove excess vinyl quickly and consistently in long production runs, without creating a workflow heavily dependent on repetitive manual work.
A secondary concern is maintaining accurate registration if re-feeding is required after weeding for final die-cut/perf-cut operations.
Does anyone have experience with:
- ultra-fast weeding methods?
- weedless or semi-weedless workflows?
- FlexCut/perf-cut strategies?
- jigs, tension systems or re-registration methods?
- ways to avoid re-feeding entirely?
- automation or semi-automation approaches for this type of workflow?
Looking for real-world production experience from shops handling large quantities.
Thanks in advance.
Who’s your go-to for large (10k) lawn sign orders? We typically use signs365 for outsourced orders, but this would be our largest ever. Thanks!
we’ve been getting more small apparel requests lately and i’m starting to think it might be worth adding a heat press instead of turning everything away or outsourcing the simple stuff
not trying to jump into full apparel production overnight, mostly thinking short runs, DTF/sublimation transfers, maybe occasional shirts/hoodies/totes for existing customers. i’ve been looking around but it’s hard to tell what’s actually shop-worthy vs hobby-grade stuff that looks fine online but won’t hold temp/pressure consistently
main things i’m wondering about are even pressure, accurate temp, platen size, auto-open vs manual, clamshell vs swing-away, and whether it’s worth spending more upfront if it saves headaches later
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I have at least 40,000 sheets of each located in Ohio if anyone is interested I am selling for roughly 130/m or 45cwt. Mill direct name brand stock
I’m not really sure what happens, but if anybody has any advice as to why my printer stopped or isn’t printing out black or yellow things in advance and please let me know