r/Diesel

Hi, I've been driving my first diesel for 15,000 mi over 4 months and I'm already frustrated. I have a 2017 Chevy Colorado with the 2.8 Duramax. A week ago it threw a check engine code with a flashing DEF light and a message on the dash that reads "DEF fluid quality poor." I use premium, DEF fluid and always keep my DEF in the "OK" range.the moment I notice it drop to 30% I refill.

After a quick scan, codes for NOX sensors position 1 and particulate matter sensor came up. I work in a shop and change sensors all the time. however, I'm new to diesel and I love the truck so far so I didn't want to risk pulling the sensors myself. I took it to the dealership and after diagnostics I was quoted 3K to change out the DEF injector, particulate matter sensor and nox sensor 1.

the technician told me that the def injector head was cracked and was more than likely shorting nox sensor 1. 3k seemed very steep for the replacement of an injector and two sensors but I wanted to err on the side of caution so I gave the okay for the repair, hoping that a technician more experienced than myself would make the right call.

After replacing the injector head and both sensors, the check engine light code disappeared. however, the vehicle is still in limp. The dealership told me that the EGR temperature sensor needed to be replaced next and quoted me another $700. They informed me that after replacing the sensors and performing a reductant system bay test after regeneration a new code came up P040B. frustrated and without my truck for a week I paid them. brought it home and decided to take a look at the EGR sensor and valve myself. After pulling the sensor I realized it was covered in soot so I cleaned it off. After reinsertion of the sensor and reconnecting the battery, I started the truck up and scanned for codes. No check engine codes but the truck was still in limp mode and the only code that was showing was for the PMS sensor which I paid them to replace and troubleshoot. There was no mention of the PMS code when I picked up my truck and I still cannot find the P040b code that they insisted set after the bay test and regen.

Tomorrow morning I plan on pulling the entire valve in a last stitch effort to manually clean it before taking it to The dealer I that I bought it from which agreed to replace egr sensor and diagnose for free. I'd greatly appreciate any and all advice on how to to troubleshoot and fix myself before I spend any more money that I don't have.

Howdy, I'm currently in the market for a new vehicle (SE US). The vehicle will be used primary for driving to work (45-1.25HR 1 way), as well as possible pulling boats for a chartering business I plan on starting this year. Due to how much I drive in general, I can't really justify the costs of a gasoline truck for my day to day driving just for the option of towing so I've been looking at other options. Currently, the three vehicles I've been considering are the following (30k usd budget)

2014 Audi q7 (19k usd, 63k Miles)

2018 BMW x535d (25k usd 69k miles)

2015 GLK 250 bluetech (19k usd, 72k miles)

All vehicles considered are getting a full tune and delete within 3 months of ownership and will have a full warranty for 30k miles

Of the three, my person preferences in order would be BMW-Audi-glk. Which vehicle will give me the least amount of grief for my use case? I fully understand the issues with each individual power train and associated repair costs, and I have already priced it into my monthly expenses. the goal is to keep the vehicle for as long as possible (200k miles+)

thank you for attending the ted talk, all opinions will be considered

I have a 2017 f250 with the 6.7 in it. I used my tax return to delete it. I have gotten a fass fuel system fuel pump with the fuel sump put on, I had it taken some where because I didn’t trust my self with cutting the hole in the tank. But anyway I have noticed that my fuel gauge is off now and is readying about an 8th to 1/4 lower than it actually is. I know the sumps are supposed to be installed at the lowest point of the tank and from what I’ve seen is directly under the stock pump in the tank. But my question is had anybody else dealt with this problem and if so what was the remedy or is it common with this product? Thanks

it looks like the 7.3 filters are starting to get a bit scarce, prices are going up on what is still available, and I'm about to spin on the last of my old stock.

What's the best value replacement for these? Are the Wix/Napa ones ok, or have they dropped off as well?

Truck has a p228f code and I’m incredibly nervous to buy it since they keep clearing the code and only showed up on fancy scanner and I’m not sure if it’s worth it or if I will need to go through the entire fuel system to be safe. Or if I should pass on the truck or offer them like 6-8k for it.

Truck has 180k and is spotless otherwise minus injector leaks

I’m heading to San Diego soon for the foreseeable future and looking for shop suggestions to do weight loss program on a ‘24 L5P. I have a guy in the Central Valley but won’t get it done before I leave so looking for someone’s recommendations down in SoCal

There’s a decently priced Titan in the title for sale I found. Kinda perfect for what I need. How reliable are these trucks? Has the 5.0 L Cummins. Anything I should look out for? Pros/Cons?