r/3000gt

Some pictures from when I purchased it a year ago in Japan to now. Full build on Instagram @vadr_gto cheers! May the force be with you.

hey guys I’ve been thinking about selling my VR4 recently since I have been getting busy in life, drives great! She’s sitting at 150kmiles and recently had some engine maintenance to keep her healthy such as
- Mitsubishi oem service kit with water pump
- oem valve stem seals
-gasket valve covers from 3sx
- 3sx tune up kit w/ platinum plugs
- head cam caps from 3sx
- walbro fuel pump kit from 3sx ( including Hotwire kit and fuel filter )
- 3sx side mount intercooler kit ( full kit with all metal piping )
THESE WERE DONE 2 MONTHS AGO ^^^^
some previous works includes
- borla exhaust from previous owner ( have videos of wanna hear )
- 3rd gen lifters

I do love this car a lot, I drive her on the weekends so I’m just trying to see what I can get! If nothing seems appealing I’m gonna hold on to her

My 95 JDM 3000 GTO.... love this car 💙👌

YOUTUBE VIDEO: https://youtu.be/0X3qBxuIqzo

CONTEXT: With the Tein EDFC system, a small three phase stepper motor sits on top each hydraulic damper and controls its damping rate. This generally requires Tein's custom computer, which is a hastle to wire and install. But wiring already exists in the 3000GT if you have ECS from factory, including the button and lights. A custom computer is thus required to make it all work seamlessly; in comes TeinECS.

PROS:

• Direct swap in place of the old ECS board, reusing the old case!
• Uses the factory button and lights
• User reprogrammable, open-source design and firmware (uploads coming soon)
• It uses the old ECS wiring to control the 4 motors, with the front and rear separately controllable. (L+R tied together)
• Optional, but not recommended due to noise: The system interfaces with the car's speed sensor so it can stiffen damping at very low speed and soften damping after speed has accumulated (anti squat launch, but soft cruise, in medium setting)
• Reverse polarity protection in power connection
• Ruggedized inputs for safety (voltage regulated using zener diodes)
• Motor fault detection via current sensing (STILL IN TESTING)

CONS:

• The motors are quite loud, because it operates at a frequency that makes the body ring in the rear. Due to the rarity of three phase steppers, there are no economical drivers out there that are more effective than the simple half stepping solution I've built. Some sound deadening paneling around the rear strut tower will hopefully quiet it, but it likely cannot be eliminated.

Each board will cost $170 with shipping included. You will be responsible for acquiring the Tein EDFC Motors (part number EDK05-12140), and of course, you will need the Tein Flex Z coilovers (Please source these first if you decide to go so far). Nothing else is needed besides some solder and heatshrink to wire your motors to the stock connectors! Installation is exceptionally simple.

I might need some time to figure out this order and payment taking process, and please note, manufacturing lead times could be up to a month, it takes a good chunk of time to get fab done, plus components, soldering, testing, packaging, shipping, etc. These will be made in batches, so I will collect orders for a 2 week period, and then make them all at once. That keeps the costs low for you, and makes it easier for me, because these are genuinely made by hand... as in, I place every component with tweezers, and reflow solder them.

IF YOU ARE INTERESTED, PLEASE DIRECT MESSAGE ME FOR ORDERS. I'll be around

Lastly, I thank those of you who eagerly responded to the last post. This is for you!

I bought this 95 vr4 a couple of months ago.

I have been driving it on the weekends and little by little I have been finding things that need to be fixed.

I drove it all day Sunday and now it won't go into reverse even with the car off.

I checked the linkage inside the car didn't see anything that stood out.

On the transmission i didn't see the linkage hitting anything.

I kind of got it into reverse but it would kick out of it.

Any help would be appreciated.

I haven't found any trustworthy sources for alternators online so I'm just going to to take it the local shop and have it rebuilt. My question is , is there any adverse effects to putting more amps in the rebuild like 110amps that the twin turbos have or should it keep it stock 90 just to not rock the boat. Is there any issues or should it be fine to have him turn it up and little? No aftermarket stereo or anything yet just want to get the car running safely. Any suggestions accepted.will be installing new battery along with the new alt so should be smooth sailing .

I am considering a straight trade of my 2020 Hyundai Sonata SEL Plus for this 3000GT VR4. It has been very well maintained and has a 1999 front end swap. It's my dad's car and he is unable to drive it anymore, but I'd hate to see him sell it. Is this worth it?

Took a little adjusting to pull the boot tight around the original plastic but less than 5 mins and its ready just needed to cut 4 small holes for the tabs to fit in. Not too bad quality for under 15$

Windshield, rebuilt and replaced dash, fully restored interior, rebuilt headlight, re painted, new spoiler, new tires, new fitment and sound system

I replaced the timing belt, tensioner, tensioner bearing, idler, and water pump, it drove just fine for ~280 miles, then i got home let it sit overnight came back and started it and somehow has belt slap now. i retimed it and this was the result, still slapping.

Can someone tell me what the problem is? it ran perfectly fine the night previous to it slapping, no issues whatsoever until when i started it in the morning to move it and it was slapping around.

The only idea i have is the tensioner bearing somehow setting itself back from the 12 o clock position and is sitting more at like 9.

has anyone else had this happen after a fresh timing belt replacement?

The bottom gear. The video I watched says it's the pin, and the gear shown in the video doesn't have that smaller indentation.

The top 4 marks line up, this bottom indentation lines up,

But I'm hesitant since the video says it's the pin

I did the spin one tooth back. But I went based of the pin, I already spun the crank pulley 1/4 turn counter clockwise and then back but the pin didn't line up but that indentation did

I posted earlier about some tricks on doing the breaks and it went well thank you. My question is though do I NEED to change both sides? The reason I changed one is because the padding part was cracked, but the other side was fine. Normally I would if they are uneven but they actually seem about the same amount of padding and the car is automatic. It would obviously be best to change both but I’d rather not change something if I don’t need to since it’s an old car and I don’t want to run into more problems by accident. I added pics of both sides (the one i just did and the one i haven’t touched). Thoughts?

I did a modification to the fuel pump assembly so it no longer has that hardline, and replacing the fuel pump and adding new fuel lines it FINALLY STARTS

This feeling is amazing, for my first project car i feel tremendous

I ended up getting a blue laser scanner, and I'm glad I did; there are many things I've been able to align perfectly in CAD that would have just been beyond impractical without it. ill probably test print the new bracket tomorrow.

assuming this design works out, the swept diameter of the calipers will be 427.3mm (16.8in). you need about 2mm of clearance, so you need your wheels to have an INSIDE barrel of at least 431.3mm (17in).

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7349659

feel free to ask questions :)

Someone requested this so don’t be mad

Speaking of how gtos sound, here’s my clapped out gto 😂😂

I wanna buy a mortycycle and premium gas is to expensive so I never drive this anymore

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/26117068757995195/?mibextid=6ojiHh