Took a little adjusting to pull the boot tight around the original plastic but less than 5 mins and its ready just needed to cut 4 small holes for the tabs to fit in. Not too bad quality for under 15$
I haven't found any trustworthy sources for alternators online so I'm just going to to take it the local shop and have it rebuilt. My question is , is there any adverse effects to putting more amps in the rebuild like 110amps that the twin turbos have or should it keep it stock 90 just to not rock the boat. Is there any issues or should it be fine to have him turn it up and little? No aftermarket stereo or anything yet just want to get the car running safely. Any suggestions accepted.will be installing new battery along with the new alt so should be smooth sailing .
This car is trolllllling me!!! Aha so after advice from reddit I looked to see if there was indeed an connector at the top of the shocks and the ecs did in fact exist. I played with each connector and fully seated them just messing around. Started the car up and now the button works. Switches between sport and tour no problem. My question is how do I know if its truly functioning? Is it noticeable or is it only when driving ?
I have been informed by a fellow redditor that the ES didn't come with the ECS suspension system. And that my car might be a Frankenstein with another dash in it. Can anyone confirm what suspension I have? The tour/sport light is flashing and the button is on the dash but there is no fuse for it anywhere so maybe he is correct? If that is the case how can I get rid of this light ?
Car started accelerating sluggish towards end of test drive and ended at 9V. Bad alternator or battery taking a crap? Or both lol I just got the battery recharged at oreilys and they said it was ok .
So my "tour/sport"lights are flashing and as I'm aware it means the car is stuck in one mode instead of being able to switch. My question is, is it worth it to restore the factory dual mode system or should I just put a modern upgrade and save the headache.
It was the ETACS not being fully plugged in that caused the windows to not roll up and the headlights to not work as well. Now the battery is charged thanks to O'Reilly and we're all good. Cruising just fine. Still not perfect and the suspension lights are flashing but I'll deal with that devil another day I'm fine with it being stuck in one mode for now .
So I read that the ETACS would be an issue with the power windows as well as the regulator. So I'm filming a video looking for the bolts to know what I'm working with. We'll wouldn't you know that only one is connected. What side effects would this have? I have the battery charging right now so cant check immediately but I thought it was hilarious. I'll check tomorrow if it fixes anything.
Ok so I am ready to admit defeat here as I know my limitations and don't want to rip into any wiring.i found a two week old donor 1993 Automatic Stealth at a pickn pull that I got a lot of loose ends at and a fresh door switch, which had the same results as my current switch only locks no windows. as I can't visually see any damage done unless its unseen in the door hinge and just need a whole harness swap. I've changed the relay, the fuse, the 30 amp fusible link. The power door lock issue is fixed so I know the door switch has power, but the same issue on both doors , locks work fine but no windows, dead silent. Could it just be two dead window regulators? Any advice? If not just going to bite the bullet and take it in the end of May to the local mistu shop and pray they take it easy on me 🤣