u/jckipps

Some m18 batteries weren't well regarded, such as the 9.0hd. Are there certain m12 sizes that I should steer clear of as well?

I'm specifically looking at the CP lineup for use in a ratchet, and am wondering if there's any concerns with either the cp2.5 or cp3.0.

I bought a new Forge battery last winter, and this old saw (2731-20) stopped running the first time it stalled with that bigger battery. I bought a replacement saw and am satisfied with it. But now, I need to either fix or scrap this old saw.

I do have a use for the old saw 'IF' it doesn't cost too much to fix. But it's not worth spending $100 for a new electronics assembly for it.

The switch ohms out correctly. The motor consistently clicks and twitches when you pull the trigger. I once got the motor to spin for a half-second.

Are there any other common trouble spots I should check for a poor connection, before I relegate the saw to the scrap heap?

Found in an old fencerow in Virginia.

1. Greater airflow than an electric fan can produce in low-speed driving?
2. Greater reliability than electric fans, for fleet customers who really don't want downtime?
3. Cost savings on what's already a too-expensive truck?
4. ??

I'm installing a 2020+ GM 'L8T' engine into a 1987 pickup, and could choose to go either way with the fans. Knowing why GM invariably installed clutch fans in their 2500 and 3500 trucks would help me considerably in choosing which to use in my build. (google pic for attention; not the fan I'd be using)

I'm planning to buy a salvage-yard L8T out of a GM pickup or a Isuzu NPR truck, and bolt it into a 1987 Chevrolet pickup with basically no changes or upgrades.

I see that quite a few of these L8Ts were equipped with dual alternators. Do I want such, or is that just more hassle and expense to install and repair? I can't imagine needing that much electrical output on this truck, but maybe there's durability issues with single alternators that I'm not aware of as well.

Also, is there any rule of thumb for what models had dual alternators and what did not? I'm leaning toward buying an engine from a Isuzu cabover truck, because they're cheaper and supposedly are easier to tune for standalone usage; do those have dual alternators?

I realize this is not a LS engine, but I can't find a LT swap subreddit.

This one was about 4.5 feet long, with more of an attitude than most black snakes around here. I picked him up by the middle, and tried to keep his head mostly pointing away from me; but he still made a couple sudden moves in my direction when I wasn't paying attention.

After a photo on the clothesline, he was turned loose in a nearby flowerbed.

The largest ones I've ever seen were two 6-footers, who were twisted together like a rope. I let them be; no sense in disturbing their efforts to make more babies to eat more mice.

These black snakes are just dangerous enough to make handling them entertaining. I've been sliced open by one before, and have little intention of letting that happen again. But that slight risk of bodily injury just adds to the fun, rather than making me avoid black snakes.

Sorry I don't have an actual photo; I forgot to take one when I was getting measurements. The overall diameter of this gland is 4.342" diameter. The notches are 0.37" wide, 0.58" long, and 0.22" deep.

Do I just need to find a massive hook spanner for this, or is there a tool that I've never seen that's designed to grab multiple notches at once?

TW25 with extreme blowby. Before I tear deeper into the engine, I'd like to do a compression and leak-down test to find out what I'm working with.

How do I pull these injectors? Can I expect to get them out by prying on the base? I'd rather not remove all the sheet metal above the engine if I can help it, but I will if using a slide-hammer to pull the injectors is the best option.

How do I adapt a compression gauge and leak-down air fitting to the injector bore? Does anyone make an adapter for this, or do I need to buy a junk injector and drill/tap it out?

I was asking for advice on this 3053-20 ratchet last night, and purchased it this morning.

Overall, I'm very pleased with it, and think it will quite thoroughly replace my use of an impact driver and square-drive adapter for light disassembly and assembly work.

I was using it with a borrowed 1.5ah battery, and it worked well. I briefly tried it on a 5.0ah battery, and it ran noticeably stronger. Per the recommendation of the mechanic I was working with today, I'll be on the lookout for good deals on CP2.5ah 'high-output' batteries, since they give the best balance between compact size and performance.

This is my first foray into the m12 lineup, and my first time buying a ratchet. I have a relatively complete m18 lineup already.

I can buy this one tomorrow at HD for $230, or buy the older model for $200. Is this one enough better to be worth it over the previous model?

Every package deal I see includes the 5.0 battery. Does this tool need the larger battery size to perform right? Or will it function fine with 1.5 and 2.0 batteries?

A friend of mine will lend me a couple of those smaller battery sizes for the next few months. So if they'll do the job, I'd rather not buy batteries for now, and watch for m12 battery deals.

I caught my mirror on a fence post that sprang up out of nowhere. It chipped the glass, but I figure it'll still work well enough. I've got Loctite PowerGrab construction adhesive on hand, hot glue sticks, and various silicone and RTV products.

1992 b250, military transport, family hauler, and now my personal work van. It'll be around for another few decades, if I don't escalate to worse encounters than mere fence posts.