My buddy wrecked his truck and ima pull the engine, what wear/typically broken things should i look for when i pull it apart?
I know it burns oil and consumes coolant and is in the 400k mileage range.
Anyone here have experience with Ls swapping gen1/gen2 amc javelins? I am planning to swap in a 4L60E in place of the original 988 3 speed non-lockup that is currently in use. What did you end up doing? What do I need to look out for? And what parts would you recommend I look at? I originally planned to use a 700r4 but after researching everything I found a 4l60E would be more feasible and cost effective. I’ve already swapped in a 5.3 with factory GM ECU so at-least half of the equation is already solved. Thanx!
I bought a 63.5 Ford galaxie for sentimental reasons (a gentleman who was important to me had one back in his young and dumb faze, and while I can no longer lay claim to being young, “dumb” has continued to be my faithful companion.)
Car was originally a 390 4bl, but has since been swapped for a later 2bl 390, so I have no issues related to swapping in a non “correct” powertrain.
I have a 6.0 core and it’s my intention to freshen it up into a mildish N/A setup, with a bottom end built with a future potential for a turbo. I have two TH400s (*edited to remove my own comment about a 4L60 that wasn’t necessary\productive) but i am thinking of sourcing a 4L80 for the overdrive.
Anybody ever done a similar swap? Any advice on it? The engine bay is tight, and it looks like header clearance is gonna be an issue.
If any of you have any suggestions or pointers I’d be grateful for an opportunity to listen.
If it one thing it’s another 😭. I’m getting this weird barking frog noise every time I accelerate. I don’t know where it’s coming from sounds like it may be the intake. Has anyone ever heard this before? Hahah
Bought the truck 2,597 days ago. Tonight I drove it for the first time out of the driveway.
Seven years of building it - some months I got in 50 hours, some months I had no motivation and it collected dust.
The day I got it I thought.. "Gloss black, perfect body, all original" and that changed to "Turbo ls, slammed, pro-street style out of a farmers field".
It's going in for the alignment on Friday, but these are the specs..
Built L33 aluminum block (Arp studded, BTR Twin Turbo Stage 2 (Oh god I said stage 2), BTR Trunnions, new valves, gaskets etc)
Overhauled 4L80e with a Circle D 3200 stall
29x15x15 rear tires on 15x12, fronts are 15x7
Shortened Ford 8.8, Ford 9" ends, Strange Engineering Axles
Twin Walbro 450lph fuel pumps, 210lb injectors
Slammed using accuair
Lots more to it, but that's the gist.
Tuning will be done shortly but should be realistically in the area of ~600 whp on a 3400lb body.
A gentleman in Maryland hooked it up with a complete dropout of 13' Camaro SS. Got the engine and trans test fitted last night. The TR6060 fits surpringly well with a stock X8 tunnel. Some massaging of the tunnel and smoothing of the trans bosses and it should fit perfect. Used XM LS Kouki Mounts and CX Racing for the Oil Pan and Transmission mount. Had to buy a TR6060 adapter mount to use the T56 cross member. Should be ordering some steel in the next few weeks to build headers. Still have to figure out a P/S situation and make the hoses. Anyways, I'll update as the weeks go on.
Last summer I built a 5.3 truck motor and slapped a turbo on it. I will admit I did the ultimate sin with ls/lt motors and I changed the cam bearings but it ran very well for a couple months. A while later with no signs showing there was any issue it died while driving it. Fast forward to this last weekend when I finally had some time to dig into it to see what went wrong, I found the crank gear had all of its teeth broke off. My assumption is the cam seized and the teeth were the weakest point. I understand that the engine is junk now being that I found huge metal chunks thru out the whole thing. My question is what could have caused the cam to seize that wasn’t an obvious mess up during the process of building the engine? being that it ran excellent up until that point. I’ll try my best to answer any questions. Thank you to whoever takes the time to read this.
To be more precise, I used to feel the torque more during shifts, now everything feels like a V6 until aggressive throttle of course. And we are making so much power!
Is this from lower tip in torque, bigger ports, heavier cars?? I've been working on this for years and have not found a solution.
Swapped an LM7/4L60e from a 2002 Silverado to a 92 1500. Bought an Amazon harness “thought we could save a little time”, already hooked up most of everything so, needed a few adapters. Pickup of some new front o2 sensors and realized they have the flat connector and the harness has a square connector like the rear sensor. The adapters I found look like female to female. Do I need ls1 sensors? Or just the harness and change the connector, or will the rears run on the front and work?
Snip of a video I made with the family last weekend. Happy Star Wars day!
Recently I’ve moved jobs to a millwright, I’m incredibly mechanically inclined and have already done a 5.9 Cummins swap in a GMC K30. Now that was a lot of work, but LS might be easier. I’m looking for reliably and fuel efficiency since I’m burning $50 a day in fuel. The trucks running a 305 TBI with a 4L60E I do mostly highway driving 2~4 hours a day 7 days a week. So my question is…. I know GM is great and all the motors bolt to their transmissions. So I can keep my newly rebuilt 4L60E, but what do I do for a controller? What about the LS? What computer system should I use?
I’m looking for fuel efficiency and reliability.
More power since I’m lugging around 1,000 lbs of tools
The 305 is a fucking dog and had a hard time doing 60…
So let’s talk shop. Thanks for helping a wild cowboy.
I’m working on wiring up my 3rd gen car, but I’m having a bit of trouble with the under-dash cables for the gauges. I’m not sure how to tell which cables go to which on the original wiring harness.
As the title says, I'm considering LS swapping an S2000 and debating on CD009 or T56 Magnum F and wondering which one actually feels the best? I'm most likely going with a crate LS3 and not planning on going for huge power.
I've already been told that most other T56's and TR6060's won't fit well. Hell, I'm not even sure the CD009 will, but I'm thinking it should since it's smaller than a T56. Open to other ideas as well.
Hello I’m posting again , I’m having an issue that others on ls1 forum have had but not figured out.
My swap starts right away but dies after 1 second or less it turns over then dies. My code reader is only throwing evap codes.
I am using an Amazon standalone harness. I’ve replaced the crank sensor and the engine coolant sensor. If I hold throttle open and spray starter fluid it will not continue to run. It’s like fuel and spark are cut the second it turns over. The rpm’s in my reader drop straight to zero as soon fuel is cut.
My pcm is hotwired straight to the battery to eliminate it as a variable. It has 12v when cranking and in the run position. I have tried with my maf on and maf off. I have fuel pressure at the rail 58lb steady.
I have tested all injectors, I have pulled plugs and watched them spark. What could this be
YES VATS IS DISABLED
I had it wiped off my pcm and have ran it on a stand with the stock harness just fine.
I have remade all the grounds and can’t think of how to land them any better. Battery to block , block to two parts of frame, my Amazon harness to back of cylinder head and frame.
What wiring issue could this be , is it an issue with something mechanical.
My hunch is cam and crank are t communicating and the pcm is cutting fuel but I don’t know how to test this, :(
Should I buy a new cam sensor and see ?
I have a 2011 Camaro 2SS with a TR6060 manual that I am swapping the cracked LS3 for a ATK 408ci Stroker LS (gen 4 6.0 originally) and I will be using the LS3 heads, oil pan & Intake manifold. i’m not sure what adjustments i’ll need to make for fitment of the alternator or if i need brackets so if anyone has done this swap before and knows that would be greatly appreciated.
these are the specs and parts I’ve picked so far, let me know if there’s any recommended changes I can make.
Short block : ATK 408ci Stroker LS -4cc flat top pistons
Cam: GPI custom grind
Heads: Stock LS3 heads with .040 head gasket
Rockers: BTR with BTR v2 Trunnions
Lifters: Chevrolet performance
pushrods: waiting on cam & engine to arrive to measure
Springs: TSP .660 Dual springs
Fuel: ZL1 fuel pump, 80lb trickflow injectors, flex fuel kit
Tune: GPI remote tune with HP tuner
Exhaust: 2.5in, no mufflers, x-pipe, catless, kooks 1 7/8ths
According to what i’ve seen, it should be around 11.5:1 compression. the goal is around 550whp NA on 93 and 580ish on E85. Is there anything else I might need to consider?
block specs:
Seasoned 6.0L Iron Gen IV with ARP main studs
Bore/Stroke: 4.030” x 4.000”
Crankshaft: Manley 4340 forged 58 tooth reluctor wheel
Rods: Manley 4340 forged H beam 6.125” ARP 2000 bolts
Pistons: Manley 2618 forged -4cc flat top moly skirt coated
Rings: Total Seal CS AP with steel top rings gapped for boost/nitrous
The winter project is getting the parts shotgun.
My twin turbo project. Built a hitch receiver (harbor freight $35 bucks) tig welded it with additional braces. Found a killer deal on a little project trailer, and wired it all up. *Rear tires are just for street, my drag radials are in the trailer.
I just bought a 1989 Mustang a couple weeks back and here is the setup(some things):
6.0 LQ9 87k SBE
Holley terminator x max (professionally tuned)
Team z tubular front end
Tranny cooler
70mm turbo on3 turbo kit
Built 8.8 rear end 3:73 gears 31 spline moser axles
4180E trans built w/ shift kit b&m slap shifter
All 6AN supply and return lines E85 capable
Aeromotive 340 in-tank pump
SVE Dual 12" electric fans
SVE 3-core aluminum radiator
Holley low ram intake
102mm throttle body
Holley fuel rails
Holley fuel regulator
10AN catch can system
Holley 48lb injectors
Stage 2 BTR cam
Endless suspension work: weld-in SBFC, re-enforced and double-plated torque boxes, full-tubular from strut towards foward, etc.
I was told by the previous owner that the car made 594RWHP @ 6psi on the dyno.
I have the vehicle back at the place that tuned it 18 months ago and they did a full vehicle inspection and are addressing an oil leak(its the rear main seal). They specialize in LS builds and come highly regarded.
Here is the recommendations based off my exhaustive list of questions, some recommendations you guys put me on, and really…. mostly their findings.
Aside from tons of little repairs and quality of life changes (moving the catch can, shortening the serpentine belt as it was chewing up the lower radiator hose, creating a proper dipstick, full coolant flush, replacing lower radiator hose, replacing the rear main seal, etc).
The two biggest additions would be going to a 95lb DeatschWerks Injectors and a 3600 stall FTI converter.
The injectors was something I was hyperfixated on because I want the car to be as safe as possible. At the end of the day, this is a “fun” “ice cream getter”, not something I’m racing but something I want to be able to get in, go-fast, scare the fuck out of some family and friends and have it be as reliable as possible. It’s supposed to be a fun street car that can be reliably beat on.
That being said, I’m sure in the future.. I’ll want some more power and I know those DW injectors give me some headroom. All of the fuel trims and AFR looked okay with the 48lbers.. AFR was always pretty solid… but I know it’s not optimal.
Before I make more power, I will be upgrading the 6AN and fuel pump but not now.. as this endeavor is already at $5,000 (the injectors and converter are approx $2,200 of this) and I paid $14k for the car(clean — needs paint but spotless rust wise… tons of unlisted suspension work.
The converter replacement is a TBD. They can’t get a part # or anything off of it until they pull the trans for the rear main.. but they believe it might be undersized because it does engage in rear pretty hard(might just be line pressure, but they hypothesized it might be an undersized converter) and the two-step is a bit wonky.
I wanted to know if anyone thinks there will be any noticeable difference with jumping up in injector size and converter and just general thoughts with the plan? Am I gonna notice anything in the seat of the pants or power wise?
Entire car was built by previous owner and has about 1,200 -1,500 miles on it now.
So I’m working on a 1990 Mitsubishi Mighty Max 4.8 LS Swap, trying to keep it as budget as possible and I’ve come at a crossroads for my cooling / radiator solution. I realize that I have a couple options but I’d like to hear from the masses.
As it stands I have about 3 inches from engine accesories to my grill cavity basically. That’s mostly because I have a truck accessory drive on but that’s also not the cheapest solution. I’ve thought about relocating my radiator to my trunk and doing that whole setup but that’s also pretty costly, last thing I was thinking was just throwing the radiator a bit behind the crash bar but it seems like fitting my tubes on would be weird. This is obviously pay to play but maybe there’s more options I’m not aware of.