u/cow-lumbus

I'm usually full on crazy when it comes to projects and repair but being spring, I've got a few to many irons in the fire at the moment...so I want the smart guys to fill me with knowledge.

My drive is a lost cause of old spalling concrete but my garage has been decent for the 10+ years I"ve been here. I had on my todo list to be the summer I have reseal, paint, door authentic drainable flooring and turn it into a proper garage on a budget.

This winter I noted to areas that were collecting water and freezing as it as a brutal cold and snowy winter. Now I think this bad section is starting to take off.

Questions...

• Another winter or two and am I going to lose this battle?
• What's the best way to tackle this? Cut and fill? some kind of a grind and product that goes in?

Thx in advance!

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I had a message on my Vw App last night of a software update into this morning...and confirmed about 6A I could not see any data on the app. then it came to life when I got to work and mentioned watch data and features which had me excited.

I already discovered the Apple Watch App shortly after getting my 2022 ID.4 recently and see no additional improvements do the phone app nor the watch app, but...

For those who might not know there is a watch app it actually shares more information about your vehicle then the damn phone app does!

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Went up to our summer place over the weekend to open it up and clean up. We winterize the dishwasher every fall so no concerns there. It seems to operate as expected but throws the breaker at the same spot in the cycle every time which is prob 15+ minutes in.

Didn't have time to pull it out and examine but there is no evidence of water but it does water hammer the pet pipes pretty good (more then I remember) as the fill valves open and close.

I noted when I ran a 15 minute rinse cycle...no issues. I have no control over the temp on this unit so maybe it's when it stops relying on the hot water and wants to superheat it? It happens at a point each time when there is a valve open.

To be honest I probably wouldn't put any money into this unit but if there is a good chance it could be a heating element or similar, I'm sure that's something I could tackle.

EDIT: It's worth noting that it's most likely NOT the breaker as it trips in the same part of the cycle already and these breakers are less then 3 years old due to recent major remodel.

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Had Fiber 500 installed at our house and could not be happier now that they got a working ONT (ver1 not ver2) installed. Half the price of coax.

We just found out Frontier is now in the area of our humble summer lake place and I just placed that order. Got the same great deal of 500/500, 3 months free, $50 gift card...and of course it claimed a $15 savings if we have Verizon Wireless which we just switched too.

Questions:

1. Am I really going to get $15 a month off a $30 service?

2. Will they give me the same deal on the 2nd service at the lake or will they most likely not offer that or remove it once they determine they are already giving it on my primary house?

Anyone a support person that knows this or does anyone else have a 2nd service like us?

New level 2 installed on Saturday....worked several times but today about 5 sec after starting charge the car says "charge canceled" and I can see the Level 2 is off too. I hear the relay shut off. It s smart charge and reports no errors.

So before panicking I hooked up both of my Level 1 chargers...and they work. I'm going to run to a charging stating to see if it will take a higher charge here shortly.

Is there anything else I can test, check or reset on the ID.4 before I call the EVSE company and starting asking if their product is causing the issue? I know they will want me to rule out the car as much as I can before I start pointing fingers!

Thx.

I'm going to rehab my double car garage this summer on the cheap and it seems Racedeck type flooring is best for my budget. I'm worked with DryDeck in our business locations so I know how it works.

My garage might get water intrusion once or twice a spring, otherwise is dry. Last month a gutter clogged up, dumped water into the window well and it was a foot deep in the window well when I came home...leaving that corner of the garage wet but draining well to my center drain. I had to squeegee and toss a fan on it for the night, and it was dry.

If something similar was to happen I would assume a fan or two would solve the issue w/o it getting smell/moldy on us? I hate todo what we have to do at work for our public spaces which is every season (it's a resort) our maintenance team has to pull it up in big sheets and pressure wash the deck and scrape/scub the floor due to wet and dirt from 100K visitors.

thx for any input.

Activated 3 phones and a new watch for the wife today moving from Spectrum to Verizon. While waiting for the phone to still activate I'm rather curious how I can get my cellular Ultra 2 on my account and with the same $7.50 my wives new watch came with. I could find no way in the online buy process todo this...will it just active and I'll get billed? Call in?

Spectrum said porting is done, cannot create account with Verizon yet as my number is not in my system. Checked "how too" and said use the Check Your Status.

It's not marked completed yet. Should I turn off the new phone and back on, it's unclear to me what the next stop is as I've gotten mixed information on what is the next stop!

Bought online, picked up in store...wondering about next step!

Screenshot: https://app.screencast.com/abH9SQDYfRhnl

Bought online, everything went great and got transfer pin from Spectrum. Went and picked up phones at store and guy said by the time I get home it should be all good. Quick and easy.

Soon as I got home wife gets call from Verizon (to her number) although I'm the primary on the new Verizon stating the account number from Spectrum was wrong. It was not. My wife and both triple checked all data entry during the purchase.

My guess is since Spectrum was in her name and Verizon is now going to be in my name this was "flagged" as something might be off. So they called her to very a few things including the account number.

So now we are waiting. She said DO NOT turn our old phones off until we get the text from Verizon that everything is ready and then reboot old and new phones. Spectrum has already emailed us (instantly) saying porting is done. Verizon is claiming due to the incorrect account number with Spectrum this may take 3 days before we get the text.

Is that BS or just CYA stuff? Thoughts from the pros?

Surprised something like this is not "on" by default. Any pros or cons for this from your experience?

I will drive my car a LOT so I doubt my 12v would sit and run down but it could be old. I plan on putting it on a battery load tester later this week to determine it's age and SoH so I have no surprises this winter...but it seems Energy Management would ensure this doesn't happen, right? If on do we even know when the 12v is struggling...does it warn us of it's condition somewhere?

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We are not trading in our current phones but old iPhone XRs we have but they are at my office and I won't have access to them until Tuesday. Since the current offer is any phone in any condition this should work.

Wife/kid want new phone ASAP so best I can tell from Google/AI that if I buy online they will still send me mail pouches and I have 30 days to turn in either mail or local. Can any Vw peeps confirm?

My local store is Corporate and NOT a reseller.

Thx.

Looking to move over to Verizon from Spectrum to take advantage of some bundles and free phones (we are way over due). Taxes will be higher with Veizon but if we step down on a couple of the lines, we can break even. If we have to upgrade with will pay more then Spectrum.

Any experience with the lowest of the 3 tiers offered...I don't trust the opinion of the Verizon store staff!

I have this switch turned to "on" in the charging settings page but I noted when my ID.4 get's to 80% and stops charging the light it out...but it's no unlocked and I have to use the door switch or fob to release it, which is always does. Am I misunderstanding anything here?

Team,

EDIT: Was getting as high as 17-20% regularly. Then the system seemed to hard reset some where where all packets were gone for 20 sec. When it came back online the packet loss dropped to 1% for about 10 minutes and now it's back up to 10-12%.

I run a Unifi Dream Machine and have a more complex system then most, but it's home system. We just added Frontier Fiber 500/500 to our systems with our Spectrum Coax (500/10) as a failover while we tested out the reliability of Frontier before downgrading the Coax, or just canning it. I know some pretty high tech guys in our neighbor running 1Gig+ service and they have no complaints in general...just have not asked them today if any of this is normal, or not.

Although I'm seeing speed tests of 500/150-200 on a Saturday morning in a high tech neighborhood I'm a bit concerned on the 11-15% packet loss I'm experiencing right off the back.

If I unplug the Frontier and run the Spectrum I do not see it pinging the same addresses.

I've attached a traceroute to google.com with the first one on Frontier and the 2nd one on Spectrum. Maybe you guys can tell me what is going on here. Do I need to check cables, is the fiber install questionable, does this trace route show it's out of the local systems hands?

Thanks for any input. I know enough to be dangerous but my nerd level does have it limits.

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Being designed for a 15A circuit I would assume it would be closer to 12A but I'm guessing mine might be blower. Got a new aftermarket one that runs 15.4A on my 20A garage circuit (HD outlet installed). Noted the on screen went from saying 1-2 miles per hour to 4-5 miles per hour...of course this is not to be trusted by in theory I should have only seen a 25-33% increase and not 50%.

So wondering if my OEM charger is more like a 8-10A output or simply dropping with age?

Going through the systems of my new (to me) 2022. It has the eRear Traffic Alert system and I can see it light up in the visual warning but get no audible warning. Any theories or has anyone experienced this? Our Atlas has this and it literally sees rear cross traffic from very far away...love it.

• It's turned on in the system. I've turned it off and back on to confirm. No go.
• The rear warning noise works perfectly fine for all other rear proximity needs such attempting to run over a trashcans, garage frames, etc.
• It visually shows up when traffic is oncoming, but no audible warning.

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90 mile round trip...easy drive for me. Been doing it 20 years. First real commute in my newly acquired 2022 Pro S 2WD with 28K miles, and now the overthinking begins. Little help from AI to make my crazy concise...

I know the GOM is called the “Guess-O-Meter” for a reason, so I’m trying not to focus too much on the mileage estimate itself. That said, I was a little concerned by the percentage of battery used on my drive today.

I waited to post until after my drive home so I could compare both legs of the commute.

When I picked the car up, the dealer charged it to 100% because Battery Care Mode was off and they knew I had a 120+ mile drive home. They would not have known about the 80% guideline. At pickup, it showed 100% and 245 miles of range. I did not log any data on that trip since everything was new to me.

For today’s commute, I charged to 80%, and the GOM showed 195 miles.

Drive details:

The route is mostly flat. I’d call it a 7–8 out of 10 for Ohio, with 10 being Kansas-flat.

Driving mix was roughly:

• 90% freeway at 65–70 mph
• 15% country roads at around 55 mph coming into town...
• 5% rolling into town with light stop-and-go traffic

Weather was about 48°F on the way to work and 55°F on the way home.

On the drive to work, the GOM was about 24% too high compared to reality, which definitely had my attention. On the way home, it was about 15% in my favor, so it seemed to make up for some of that earlier concern.

For the full round trip, the GOM ended up being only about 4% too high overall.

I do have VCDS, but I have not figured out how to pull battery health data yet.

So my question is: is there anything I can do to help “condition” the battery or improve range estimate accuracy, or is this simply how the GOM behaves? It does seem like it may be more inaccurate on the top half of the battery and then correct itself as the battery gets lower. I’m planning to keep tracking this for a week or so to see whether the algorithm starts adapting to my commute.

Once I get my Level 2 charger installed, hopefully this weekend, I plan to run it down to around 10–20% and see what the data looks like charging back up to 80%.

Also, since I have VCDS, I’d like to find a way to check the battery health on this 4-year-old, 28K-mile. I'm sure a few of you could tell me something about its health and any guidance on how todo that such as values at a given % or driving a certain distance/time/% and checking the delta.

https://app.screencast.com/rS2IC75pCavHL

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Wondering if there is any way to get off-peak rates here in Delaware for vehicle charging. We are on the city's aggregation program (Dynegy) and thus fixed rates...but I know AEP has such programs. What does anyone know?
Thx.

I cannot believe that in the year of our lord 2022, car manufacturers still can’t figure out how to put an inductive charger in a vehicle without turning my iPhone into a panini press.

Yes, I’m streaming music over CarPlay. No, that should not mean my phone gets so hot the screen dims, performance tanks, and instead of “charging,” it heroically loses 1% every 10 minutes.

Absolutely incredible engineering, the future!

Is this everyone’s experience, or is my car just especially committed to cooking consumer electronics? Are the ’23+ models any better?

Same issue with our Atlas too. I honestly thought maybe something so high tech in the ID.4 might do it better!

2022 Pro S 2WD