An item I am looking at is listed by a seller who created their profile last year. Everything is empty, no posts, photos, anything else, and they only have a single item listed on the marketplace. I am new to using Facebook Marketplace, is this a red flag or not that unheard of?
The item is priced a bit lower than others, but not by what I would consider a ridiculous amount, and is by no means a high-demand or commonly sought after item.
My launch-era switch's battery is starting to bulge a bit, so before it becomes a huge problem I decided to order a replacement battery kit from IFixIt, I was told though that since I am going to have to open it up to replace the battery I might as well replace the thermal paste too.
My Switch has been running hot lately, and it's something I had been considering doing someday even before my battery went bad, so I figured might as well. I was just going to get some Noctua NT-H1 paste as that is my go-to "budget for good performance" paste since I am not looking to spend a lot on this, also I highly doubt the Switch would see any performance improvement from some crazy $50 tube of paste, but then I noticed that the Arctic Cooling MX-7 is pretty much the same price but performs better by a bit, so that's what I am planning to use (Assuming nobody here is aware of any reason I should not). However, when looking into how to do it there are two main things that I am unsure about after seeing several guides and videos.
First is the compound between the heatsink/pipe and the rear heat spreader/shield. When I looked at guides I saw it mentioned
>"When you remove the shield plate, you’ll need to replace the thermal compound between the plate and the heatsink. Normal thermal paste isn't designed to bridge large gaps, so you'll need thermal putty or viscous thermal paste."
since apparently the material in that part is much thicker, I tried to look into this and got mixed results. Many people seemed to just use the same paste as every other part there, others were putting not pastes but a pad there. I am not sure what to do. Especially since that same guide that mentioned the issue also recommended K5 Pro, which when I looked it up on top of being expensive was apparently designed as a paste to replace thermal pads on GPU's RAM, and I have seen complaints from people that it leaves a greasy residue, is very hard to clean, made their temps go up, and in one instance boiled and made a mess all over the place. I really don't want to use this stuff if I don't have to, but I don't know if I should use something thicker than normal paste or if normal paste would be fine there too. Anyone have any experience with this one?
Second is the SoC's heat spreader. Half the guides I saw just ignored this step and didn't replace the paste there, the other half did, and I am very very nervous about doing it. You need to sort of bend the tabs on it to get it off, and it exposes the bare SoC, they even mentioned that you have to be very careful cleaning around it since there are very tiny surface mount components around it and if you tear one off your console is likely done. Can I just clean the paste off the actual die and not bother with the paste around it? Or would that be a bad idea? How would I even get it back ON if I have to bend it off? How important is it to replace the paste here or can I avoid this step?
The entirety of the site https://parade.com/ will display a fake "Page could not load" error if it detects ublock is enabled. I encountered this across multiple platforms and browsers that had ublock, and it went away as soon as ublock was disabled. You can even see the page fully load for a second before that fake error is displayed over it.
My launch-era switch's battery is starting to bulge a bit, so before it becomes a huge problem I decided to order a replacement battery kit from IFixIt, I was told though that since I am going to have to open it up to replace the battery I might as well replace the thermal paste too.
My Switch has been running hot lately, and it's something I had been considering doing someday even before my battery went bad, so I figured might as well. I was just going to get some Noctua NT-H1 paste as that is my go-to "budget for good performance" paste since I am not looking to spend a lot on this, also I highly doubt the Switch would see any performance improvement from some crazy $50 tube of paste, but then I noticed that the Arctic Cooling MX-7 is pretty much the same price but performs better by a bit, so that's what I am planning to use (Assuming nobody here is aware of any reason I should not). However, when looking into how to do it there are two main things that I am unsure about after seeing several guides and videos.
First is the compound between the heatsink/pipe and the rear heat spreader/shield. When I looked at guides I saw it mentioned
>"When you remove the shield plate, you’ll need to replace the thermal compound between the plate and the heatsink. Normal thermal paste isn't designed to bridge large gaps, so you'll need thermal putty or viscous thermal paste."
since apparently the material in that part is much thicker, I tried to look into this and got mixed results. Many people seemed to just use the same paste as every other part there, others were putting not pastes but a pad there. I am not sure what to do. Especially since that same guide that mentioned the issue also recommended K5 Pro, which when I looked it up on top of being expensive was apparently designed as a paste to replace thermal pads on GPU's RAM, and I have seen complaints from people that it leaves a greasy residue, is very hard to clean, made their temps go up, and in one instance boiled and made a mess all over the place. I really don't want to use this stuff if I don't have to, but I don't know if I should use something thicker than normal paste or if normal paste would be fine there too. Anyone have any experience with this one?
Second is the SoC's heat spreader. Half the guides I saw just ignored this step and didn't replace the paste there, the other half did, and I am very very nervous about doing it. You need to sort of bend the tabs on it to get it off, and it exposes the bare SoC, they even mentioned that you have to be very careful cleaning around it since there are very tiny surface mount components around it and if you tear one off your console is likely done. Can I just clean the paste off the actual die and not bother with the paste around it? Or would that be a bad idea? How would I even get it back ON if I have to bend it off? How important is it to replace the paste here or can I avoid this step?
I am on Windows10.
I have installed MSYS/MINGW/CLANG, but have a lot of issues with compiling that appear to be related to having a space in my home folder.
When MSYS was installed it by default apparently just copied the name of my user folder to "C:\msys64\home" and set that as my home folder, problem is, my name has a space in it, and I think that is the reason I am having so many random issues of files not being found all of a sudden.
I know I can't just simply rename this folder to remove the space without reconfiguring something, can anyone help me understand what I need to do to properly change the path to a new one without breaking anything?
I recently bought this customized desoldering tip for my Pinecil:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256810434388930.html
It comes in two pieces, the tip itself which has a M4 threaded hole, and a TS100 tip to put into my iron that has a M4 threaded screw at the end. There are other tips for other controllers I want to get which are just the top screw-on part and don't come with the TS100 tip.
I noticed that Pinecil also sells a threaded tip, though I am unsure what those brass fittings you screw into it are for:
https://pine64.com/product/pinecil-threaded-insert-tips-set-and-adapter/
I am just a little worried if the cheap TS100 tip that I got along with the screw-on tip would be any good. Would it be worth it to get that official Pinecil one and just put the screw-on part of the tip on that instead, or would I basically be buying two of the exact same tip and it's likely the exact same quality?