r/consolerepair

Had since 2021.

Crack happened in the past month

Slot still works and closes but it's kind of annoying

Any advice on how to fix? Thanks.

Re-shelling was a success midway, but then turning it on my screen is black (or lights up, fades away like in the gif) I have no idea if the lcd screen is broken or the connector cable. Nintendo screen supposedly is able to turn on, and the Nintendo switch lite system is responsive. At first it was a fully black screen but after unscrewing everything and putting it back together it has given me the fade away reaction instead.

I did when replugging in the lcd I accidentally scratch the connector cable ? There are some marks but I have no idea if that's the actual cause. Putting the lcd connector back in for some reason wasn't easy either. Now, I'm not so concerned about replacing the lcd so it's fine if it's broken but if it's the digitizer that'd be terrible.

This too was my first time doing something like this, so any advice is welcome and appreciated!

All capacitors on all three consoles have been replaced, and I have to say the result is truly excellent. Especially on the Mega-CD it makes quite a difference, and the video output through the 32X now has an absolutely clean and crystal-clear image.

So as I stated above. The NES won't read cartridges in the down position (specifically) this is important because it reads them in the up position flawlessly and I can't figure out why. I recently did a deep clean inside the console and replaced the 72 pin connector with a brand new one but it still won't read in the down position. Occasionally I can get it to work if I mess with some wires but it's not consistent. which makes me think that it might be a wiring problem but I'm not sure.

Any help would be appreciated. Thank you!

Hi, I was wondering if anyone could help me figure out how to fix these pads—the ones with four capacitors—from the SNES. To be honest, I don't have much experience and I'm just getting started in the world of repairs. I'd really appreciate it if anyone has any ideas. Thanks.

So I recently picked up a new hobby of repairing old Nintendo consoles. I recently bought this cheap old dsi LL on eBay and want to try to fix it to play but I'm struggling with the screws. I have all kinds of screwdrivers so I was using the #000 to remove the screws but there's this one that I'm really struggling with. Before I even started on it, it looked tight and possibly stripped, so, is this screw stripped? And if so, what should I do to get it out?

P.S. the screw that looks better is one I've already gotten mostly out with this screw driver but not completely out, not sure if I'm just using the wrong screwdriver.

Hi,

I'm wondering if anyone has come across an Xbox series X where one of the VRM IC has completely blown and burnt the board, as well as shorted the PSU.

if so could anyone help me with this one I received in a joblot, I'm looking at rebuilding the traces but hoping someone can shine some light on how the traces for this area as supposed to be, each pin on the IC and for each of the components that have been completely blown off the board.

Thanks in advance

I didn’t think the solder job or the speaker placement was the issue at first. I took out the plastic button and removed it. Clean around the button with alcohol, then tried it again with the console open pressing directly against the button, with no response. Could the speaker be what’s causing it? Should I get a new shoulder button and replace it? What could be the problem? Any input is greatly appreciated. Feel free to roast me haha

I opened up my 2dsxl because the camera didn't work, but now the whole system is broken. When pushing the power button, it stays on for a few seconds before turning off with a pop sound. I researched this and since the bottom screen flashes for a moment, I assume it's because of the top screen ribbons. Maybe I scratched it when prying open the shell casing, because it doesn't look ripped to me. Any help would be much appreciated!

Found my brothers old switch that he hasn’t used for years (pre-2020), it’s been dropped a few times. Tried turning it on to no avail but it still can connect to its docking port. All the internals seem to be ok/ not damaged

Just posting this monstrosity because I’m proud to say I’ve (nearly) brought it back from death by battery acid. I’ve spent more time messing around with this dam thing than I’d like to admit… I’m very new to soldering and diagnosing stuff like this so I bit off more then I could chew with this at first. I wish so bad I had thought to take a before picture… But to give you an idea, my first step was to drop the whole thing in a bowl of vinegar. I had so much trouble diagnosing everything I recapped it for no reason, took the power switch apart for no reason, and went through two set of batteries on the multimeter I used… the DC converter board and sound board are not original too. The originals were fubar… But anyway, it still has an issue every once in a while where it goes blank after initial boot. I literally just put pressure on one of the spots where I jumped some vias and it works again. I’ve tried poking the solder while it’s running a game until I found the crappy solder jobs I did and re-flowing them. Now I can poke all of them and it doesn’t crash. But still every couple boots it goes blank. Is there something else I should try that I’m missing? I really want this piece of crap to work consistently now that I’m so close lol

But if I can’t I’m still happy I got some good experience and practice from this. I’ve been able to repair much better off boards with ease now 😂

Also worth mentioning that right out of the eBay package I ran a game on it for a few minutes with the DC jack before it quit. Couldn’t believe it worked at all after I saw the inside but if it never booted I wouldn’t have even tried.