
The brand-new xTool O1 Omni Printer is coming soon.
And it’s not just a UV printer.
More surprises on the way. 👀

And it’s not just a UV printer.
More surprises on the way. 👀
Hello everyone! I'm looking at getting into laser and I've been looking at the F series machines, currently on XTool I can get F1 Deluxe bundle, which comes with the F1, slide extension, rotary tool and the air purifier for less than a base F2 unit.
This bundle is really tempting, but I'm not sure if I'd be limiting myself by F1, I'll be looking to engrave some metal, wood, and I'd like to try deeper engravings on wood too.
Is the F2 that much better than the F1 or does the F1 bundle far outweigh any drawbacks?
The whole point of layers/colors in the xTool software is to control different cut and score and engrave parts of the project and keep them separate. However unlike Xtool Creative Space, Xtool Studio seems to completely ignore and disrespect that?
The moment you have two different colors with the exact same settings, Studio merges them which makes it impossible to turn them off and on independently. I need to do all my inner cuts before it does the outer cuts. I guess I have to trick the software by having one layer being 100% and one layer being 99%?
Wasn’t sure if I should put this in help or discussion - lmk if I should change the flare.
My makerspace has an F1 and we’ve been having an issue recently where members are able to disable the feature that keeps the laser from firing unless the shield is fully closed and locked down. Why would someone manually disable this? Excellent question. We repeat the instruction not to do so often and clearly, but yk sometimes people just don’t listen or care.
My question is, is there a way to make it so it’s impossible to disable this feature? We want the cover to be locked down at all times when in use.
Thanks!
I just upgraded from the F1 to an F2 and I was under the impression the camera would help framing items but when I snap an image and then line up the project image it is way off. I did the calibration on setup. Am I supposed to recalibrate for every different thickness to make this work correctly? Thanks everyone!
I need a consistent way to know BEFORE I engrave something in a circle that I am actually in the center.
Just a thought here… regardless of the laser engraver being used… make the cross hairs (on the S1 is what I’m referring to in this case) show the center of the object, AFTER I’ve done the three point measurement. If I have just one of the points not exactly on the edge, the circle that shows up in the XCS software does not matter. It’s going to be off center.
Currently there is zero way for me to see the object how the XCS software sees it outside the XCS software. I am sure that this was fixed in the newer xTool models (maybe), but the S1 is so capable, and controlled by the XCS software. It should be able to be updated on the XCS software for some type of indication of center. The route feature does not help. It’s not the fix. This is a software fix that can be handled by an update.
My only recommendation is a soft button in the software for the laser to show the center as seen by the software using the crosshairs on the material to be engraved, which is already there. Please, thank you.
Trying to decide which one of these that I want.
F2 Ultra UV Laser vs xTool F2 Ultra 60W MOPA & 40W Diode
So far they both look fantastic. With the Mopa/Diode not being able to do crystal cubes but the Ultra UV can. What can the MOPA/Diode do that the Ultra cant do?
Picked up a Caravelle by Bulova as a graduation gift to commemorate a Summa Cum Laude achievement. Engraved the caseback with the xTool F1. I went for a deep engraving since it looks way more permanent and substantial.
If anyone's curious about the laser settings... you can check them out in picture 5!
Hey all, I had a tumbler with an unusually thick and varied coating (vinyl relief overlay on standard paint) that I powered through, but it left a defined scorch mark (looks almost anodized.)
Any recommendations to remove the scorch marks? Could I do an IR pass to clean it up, or am I just stuck with the results? Tried magic eraser and alcohol with no significant result.
I work at a jewelry repair store and we do in house engravings. The past jobs i received were 14k gold ID bracelets. When i process the jobs through xcs it doesnt seem to engrave or score. Blue and red dot is aligned but it seems that the high shine polish is reflecting off the material of the high shine finish. Anyone have a solution to my problem? I have no problems for watch back cases but it seems to happen most with high shine polish finishes on the items. Thank you
Hi, looking for someone who can do some jigs for me for my lasers.
Starting with 3-4 for guitar picks, knifes etc
I’ll send over a product to you and you can 3d print it and send them over when ready.
Any recommendations?
I am having a hard time engraving the inside of a ring using the RA3 with the P3. There is no overhead close range camera and the only background photo comes from the underside of the lid. I sent a ticket to xtool and the advised me that I need to use framing or modelling. Modelling can only be done when the RA3 is level so that wont work and framing goes so fast (lowest framing speed setting) that I cant tell if it's in the correct place in the XTS software. Also, I have to look in the ring at an angle to see the framing and if the ring has an inside curve, I lose the sight of the lowest framing point. What I can work out so far, is that in order to engrave on the inside of a ring using the P3 and RA3, I have to pretty much guess if the framing has landed correctly. The F1 and F2 have blue framing so you can see where the text will be engraved but the P3 only has the red framing ability.
Maybe I am doing something wrong, I don't know but this is driving me crazy. If anyone has any suggestions, or if anyone can give me any pointers, I am all ears (and eyes)
The small GS logos are a large grouping of individual PNGs. The GATA logo is a single PNG. I would like to cutout a space around the GATA (removing the GS logos close to/overlapping the GATA)
I have tried to research this but masking only allows you to select what area you want visible, not highlight the area you want removed. Any tips?
Feeling a bit burned on the kickstarter launch, went in to order the machine and found the same early bird pricing offered to everyone minus the $10 deposit. The original email and communication says $100 off the final price, and an email today is now clarifying they never intended a discount off the price of the machine and now offering a $100 coupon towards future purchases. How is this possible? It feels like this is pretty clearly being deceptove/dishonest. Does anyone else feel the same way?
Hey Gang. I have been finding some great models on Makerworld but didn't want to have to use the BambuSuite software and follow a really weird process to get a file over to XCS so I clean room reverse engineered the .lac file and made this tool. It free and I want to keep it that way, but before I spend $99 for Apple I am hoping some of you can test it and hopefully find it useful.
Would love any feedback you may have.
Hi.
When embossing with the F2 Ultra’s MOPA laser, it occasionally happens that at the end of the process—when the background, i.e., the darkest areas in the depth map, are supposed to be engraved—the device performs a few abnormal passes. These passes are visibly slower and brighter than usual and can also be heard. These few passes manage to ruin the previously nearly smooth or satin-finished background by roughening it with countless microscopic craters.
This problem occurs only occasionally, but when it does, it usually persists across multiple processes and is independent of the depth map used. Sometimes the process runs smoothly, but the next time—using the exact same depth map, in the same position, and with unchanged parameters (including the z-axis position)—the problem occurs.
Even though it occurs only occasionally, it is very disruptive, as it ruins the result of a 2–3-hour process within a few seconds, leading to a waste of material and time.
Sometimes the problem goes away after restarting the device and xTool Studio, but most of the time it persists across multiple processes and eventually resolves on its own.
I reached out to xTool, but their AI chat support is only helpful for general questions; for actual problems it’s completely useless.
Does anyone else have the same problem? If so, have you found a solution?
I'm a little desperate because materials like copper, brass, titanium, silver, etc., aren't exactly cheap.
I it possible to make a signet ring with the F1 Ultra? I tried doing both embossing and engraving, and neither is doing what I want it to. Am I doing something wrong or is it not possible?
Any idea when it's getting announced?
It was meant to be the 4th... then they quietly changed it to the 6th... guess it's not being announced today either?
Still says the 6th on the pre-announcement site - still says the 4th on a few localised sites
edit - from xtool - now the 26th
Hi there, I'm Mack with xTool Support. I apologize if our communication has not been clear on the M2 announcement. Due to some adjustments to our global business strategy, we are canceling the M2 pre-order scheduled on May 6. We will instead be launching once we have them in-stock and available globally on May 26. Our team is working on making adjustments to our website to ensure all customers are aware of this. Please let me know if you have any other questions.