
r/prusa3d

Hopefully someone can use this and take advantage of the free shipping
Is it better to buy 8 Prusa dry boxes or 2 Creality SpacePi X4 dryers for the Prusa Core One L?
I want to be prepared for the Index, and at the same time I need some kind of dryer for my filaments, but I can’t decide which option is better because I want to store the Prusa dry boxes / Creality dryers on top of the printer.
State of the eco-system/ease of use
After reading my text below, let me preface this post by saying this is not meant to be a rant, but calling it just a question is unfair too. I guess the closest is my schetching my ideal user experience. Trying to find out how close Prusa is to that, and for any Prusa employees stumbeling on this post to take away some feedback from this.
With the new induction based nozzle tool-changersystems being released/announced by several brands, I find myself being drawn to get a new printer, specifically for multi-material, and multi-colour.
The prusa Core One L with INDX is definetly on the list. But I'm a bit unsure on todays state of workflow/ease of use. I currently own a BL X1C + AMS which is a huge upgrade from my first printer. So I'm used to a very lazy efficient workflow.
Currently I can start any print from my computer as long as the build plate is empty, and fillament is loaded in the AMS. Both can be checked from BL studio.
If I do need to exchange a fillament, I can insert it in the AMS without any heatup of the nozzle, no waiting for anything. Just insert it 10 cm, and the AMS does the rest. If it's a propriatery BL fillament roll it even recognises the material and colour. Heck, even drying is done by the newest AMS system.
I do not need to be present to ensure clean nozzle, purge/prime material removal, I only need to go to the printer to take the prints off the buildplate.
How does the current/forseen Prusa workflow compare?
Do you need to wait next to the printer at start of print to ensure correct purge removal?
How are fillament changes handled, does it require heatup time or can it be up to the extruder gears?
How well can I validate the printer is ready for printing remotely?
Is MMU + INDX a thing? combining simple fillement exchange, and nozzle size mixing.
Any other user experience related points I'm forgetting?
There are technical/moral reasons why I would want a Prusa over a BL printer. In fact I want to want a Prusa. Which is why I'm posting here.
CoreOne L to INDX upgrade is started!
I was at a printing convention this weekend and got an indx sticker, so I have officially started the upgrade process! Now to wait for the indx for core one L to actually come out.
3/4 of my packages made it through Customs/FedEx
Got the MK4S with MMU3 and enclosure (which is the last package I am waiting on from FedEx, hoping to get it tomorrow), and a Core One+.
This weekends plan
- add a camera to my Core One+ (which means I might have to partially disassembling it, unless I am blind and didn't see the USB-C)
- switch which way the door opens/closes
- add an enclosure to my MK4S
- assemble my MMU3 and put it on my enclosure
- and figure out why my Prusa Mini is trying to kill itself by going batshit crazy in the Z axis
Constant bad extrusions with beads and gaps
For years my Prusa MK3S+ has been a dream and required hardly any adjustments or maintenance.
I’ve picked the hobby back up again, printing with PolyMaker matte PLA and my extrusions are just awful and I cannot seem to figured it out
So far I’ve tried
• cleaning the bed
• glue on the bed
• different filament
• brand new filament
• filament from filament dryer
• different models to print
• cold pull to clean nozzle (did clean some out, but hardly seemed like a lot compared to others I saw online)
• Z-adjust (currently set to 1.300 which it has been for nearly the entire time I’ve had it)
• releveled the bed
I’m feeling kinda crazy and can’t figure out what else to do aside from replace the nozzle?
Hoping others have banged their head against this same wall and have suggestions
Is Prusa filing for US tariff reimbursement, and if so, where's the money headed?
Today the US opened its new system for importers to file for reimbursement of the illegal tariffs that Trump attempted to apply last year.
https://www.npr.org/2026/04/19/nx-s1-5786635/tariff-refunds-customs-ace-portal
https://www.cbp.gov/trade/programs-administration/trade-remedies/ieepa-duty-refunds
Is Prusa filing for said reimbursement? And if so, what will happen to those funds? I, and other potentially affected customers, would likely appreciate a response from Prusa on this point.
Thanks in advance.
Service, clean and maybe upgrade mk3s
Hi all.
Had my mk3s for a while (just got it before Brexit screwed us over) and have never serviced it or taken it apart more than a touch for a loop mod and a pi with octoprint, alongside the silicone leveling mod, which has done such good things for my larger prints.
I've been printing with some pla lite from esun and it's been glooping around the nozzle. Had a look and she's FILTHY. Im going to take the extruder off and clean it, I may need to do more as the goop has gone past the heat block by the looks of it. It's really bad.
I'd probably like to grease the bearings, upgrade the nozzle and consider any suggestions you all have (I'm guessing the PTFE tube is gonna have to be swapped too)
I've only ever printed with PLA and PETG, I don't see myself printing with any other filament in the future.
Is there a suggested nozzle, grease and or any other bits I should look for? I can't spend much as I'm on a tight budget, but if something is swapping or needing to be swapped, I'll take on board.
Is there anything else I should do, is the heater block screwed up in the photos?
All advice is greatly appreciated!
Remote 1080p/24fps Camera Streaming For Everyone and New PrusaConnect Storage Upgrade Options
Hey everyone
Introducing remote live stream options for Prusa connect for everyone! Thanks for everyone that helped with the beta of it! See blog article for more details
Stop New York's Attack on 3D Printing
New Yorkers, the proposed 2026-2027 budget includes provisions that will require all 3D printers sold in the state to run print-blocking censorware—software that surveils every print for forbidden designs. This policy would also create felony charges for possessing or sharing certain design files. The vote on the state budget could happen as early as next week, so New Yorkers need to act fast and demand that their Assemblymembers and Senators strip this provision from the budget.
Reflectors for Prusa XL and Mk4S/Enclosure status LEDs
If you have your Original Prusa XL or Original Prusa Enclosure hanging off the edge of the table, you cannot see the downward pointing status LEDs. These reflectors are quick prints and allow you see the printer status at a glance.
https://www.printables.com/model/1696694-reflector-for-printer-controller-mounted-on-the-pr
https://www.printables.com/model/1696699-reflector-for-prusa-xl-printer-controller
Courtesy of https://www.printables.com/@DPdesign
6.4.1 Stable firmware for Prusa XL is out
Hello everyone,
6.4.1 Stable firmware for Prusa XL is out.
Summary:
* Improved phase stepping calibration
* Fixed homing issues with no tool picked
* Fixed toolchanger service moves being affected by user feedrate override
* Relaxed nozzle cleaning checks to prevent false nozzle cleaning failed errors
* Relaxed print fan selftest thresholds to reduce false failures
* Known issue - Power panic resulting in a BSOD
RN 6.4.1: https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/releases/tag/v6.4.1
As usual, please let me know in this thread if there are any bugs
Is there a plan for prusa to sell core one directly with index? Or will they be separate like MMU
As per the title.
Is there a way to force 'diagonal' supports?
(I'm a newbie, so apologies if this is a stupid question)
When I'm printing these star cutouts, the automatic painting wants to add supports to the arms, but the support material goes all the way down to the feet. I was wondering if there was a way to force the supports to follow the line on the side of the star or at least not go all the way down. I tried to show what I mean in the second two pictures.
I've tried using support blockers but that only blocks where the supports start at the top, not where they end at the bottom. I don't actually know if the supports are needed at all, but I feel bad wasting materials for a test print.
Mk3S Adhesion
Apologies if this is the wrong place - it says use megathread but I can’t find one.
Haven’t used my printer in a while.
Prints stopped sticking to the bed and would make a glob and life got busy - printed myself a kid.
Trying to dust it off and do some prints but it keeps making blobs.
Cleaned the steel bed with dish soap, dried and did IPA.
Calibrated it.
Cold pull.
Have messed with live adjust a lot, both squishing it a bit extra and not.
Printed with brim and even that won’t stick which used to be fool proof.
Bought new filament.
Any idea what I’m missing? Pinda looks right height to me by eye, but any bigger fixes are adding more time than I have so I could use some advice.
Default temps, .2 layer height, latest slicer and firmware flashed.
It sticks for a little but then it peels itself up shortly after.
PETG adhesion issues Core One +
So I wanna start saying that I’m relatively new to modern 3D printers having been using a custom modded sidewinder X2 up to this point.
I recently started using PETG and I’m having issues with adhesion. I’m using Prusament filament and the built in setting for it in PrusaSlicer but all my prints have issues with the corners warping up. I’m printing on a satin build plate that I have made sure to clean with both 99% alcohol and also have tried lightly cleaning with some dish soap. I have also used the glue stick method to minimal success. Most of what I’ve read has been the opposite problem where people can’t get their prints off.
Does anybody have some tips as to how I can improve the adhesion?
Prusa App update IOS, all the filaments!
They put in a massive filament database, from which you can create NFC tags.
Defect on first layer printing PLA
Just opened a brand new spool of pineapple yellow pla from Prusa. It's giving me a lot of trouble printing the first layer on the smooth PEI sheet, which I have never experienced before.
I get all these weird ripples and bubbles where it seems to delaminate in places (see pic).
I've been printing Prusament PLA for about 3 years now I have never had this issue before. Just wondering if someone might know what's causing it so I know what to start adjusting. Thanks to anyone who read this.