r/projectcar

Finally got an exhaust leak taken care of and everything buttoned back up last night. First drive in a while. Even passed a car meet on my test drive afterwards and popped in. Not a bad start to the weekend!

But my daughter has decided she wants to work on it with me and maybe drive it to school a couple of days a week in a few years when she can drive. It's about 3 miles on slow neighborhood roads so it's definitely realistic for her. I picked it up a couple years ago super cheap as a running/driving car. The PO had swapped in a 60s turbothrift but left the original manual and torque tube rear end. They had drilled new holes right through the trans bell housing and said send it. I didn't realize until it started shaking itself apart.

Now it's sitting on a Nova rear end, still has the 250 straight 6 and my daughter helped me throw in a TH350 I had laying around. As long as she shows interest this will be our ongoing project.

Thinking heavily about auto crossing this car. Looking to dig in to it this summer and get it going.

ive a long term mr2 project was running but now loom is coming out and electrics are being overhauled, while thats ongoing I've scooted it over so i can work thru the carb & timing on my xr400 this weekend. ive been using them for years to shift cars into awkward spots hell i dragged this one round our yard to make space in the shop for the daily a few times, id probably spring for the type that you dont have to jack up the car for when i need to buy them again though, jacking every time is a pain but such is cheapskate life

Permanently mounted my custom fender badges and I was trying to wrap up an entire interior job.

New carpet and sound deadener, re-covered rear seats and TMI one piece headliner.

Was going to pull an all nighter and install the new front buckets so I could get her to her first show of the Spring but, I'm tapping out.

I'll hit it again tomorrow and get her out next weekend.

It never ends.

running a drain line off my turbo and I didn’t have any straight An fittings left, I just have the 90 degree coming off the turbo, and then the slight angled one off the oil pan. I’ve heard angles can mess up draining, i’m mostly worried about the top fitting being a 90, so let me know if it works or not, thanks !

Just finished plastic welding and repairing a front valance I got for my car in a package of various body kit pieces. There's a matching rear valance too but it needs some pretty extensive repair compared to the front. Just a test fit for now so I could drill the bolt holes before paint. The next part is figuring out if I want to do black or get a shop to color match it to the car, any suggestions?

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Ok guys (Long post warning ⚠️ Aussie here). I'm finally getting my shit together, (trying hard) to stay sober and sink some money into getting this neglected rust bucket (84 Holden Gemini TG Sedan) back in pristine(ish) condition instead of sinking it into destroying my liver. I just dont know where to start...... I already know there's more rust than these eyes can see over the shitty rattle can respray. The boot/rear body is fucked with pretty bad rust holes either lower side. Passenger front and Drivers side rear doors are rusted thru down the bottom (God only knows what the insides look like) battery tray is another area cooked. Fenders are rough (on the fence weather or not to just replace them with straight ones too. Engine bay rust (apart from the battery tray area) seems very superficial and can definitely be treated with some rust converter, a sand and a prime.

I've attached a heap of pics since I vacumed all the rat shit and dead spiders out last weekend.

This car is pretty sentimental to me. My Grandpa owned it since brand new, (still have the original warranty papers with Grandpa's name on it purchased from Port Adelaide Holden SA. This car hasn't left the family and it was my first car when I was 18.

My goal is to take my oldest daughter to her highshool formal in it. That is in roughly 18-19 months time.

Any advice will be fantastic. I have a rust cut for the last pic from the awesome dude at Gemwreck on the Sunny Coast QLD.

Starting to make count of what I need to rebuild the front end on my '67 LeSabre. In the repair/chassis service manual it is calling it a "brake reaction rod" and I can't find any modern reference to it or a replacement.

Do I leave the original in and replace everything else with the steering/suspension? Or is there a new replacement part for it?

Well, I thought I bought the right steering rack boots for my 2JZ-swapped 280z this time but nope! After looking around the Google machine I ended up buying the exact same p/n as I already had and didn't realize it until I went to install them. So instead of doing the right thing and finding the correct boot, I designed and 3d printed adapters. Works perfectly!

Side note: if anyone knows the right p/n post it here 😅

Pic isn't mine, but the model I'm looking at buying. GMC Motorhome (or EM-50, if you know you know)

I really want to do an EV swap of something, and I am also looking at buying an old camper to build a tiny home in. Why not knock out two birds with one stone?

So I just put in BC Racing BR coilovers and a right axle last weekend. Immediately I noticed a vibration under moderate to heavy load. It’s doesn’t vary with speed.

Double checked everything I touched. Nothing loose etc.

I first thought I got a bad axle, or maybe the brand was bad (PDL, which I haven’t had any bad experiences on customer cars with). Bought a new axle from O’Reilly’s to match left side, which I’ve had no problems with since installed a couple months ago.

Putting new axle in made no difference. Double checked I set preload correctly on the coilovers. I left ride height at the default setting (about two fingers front and rear) and set damping to the middle setting to start. No luck.

I finally aligned the car, which I had been putting off thinking I had to tear stuff apart again, but no change. Also balanced my wheels because it needed done even though I figured it couldn’t cause this.

My last thought is that I’ve heard some people say just lowering the car puts the cv joints at an angle that can cause vibration under load. Looking at the axles with the car on the ground they don’t look that angled to me but maybe still enough to cause a vibration?

Anyone have a lowered C30 that had this problem? Did you have to just raise it? I’ve heard of people putting engine mount spacers to raise the axles on other cars but idk if there’s much space for that with the T5.

Any insight/experience is appreciated.

2008 Volvo C30 T5 R-design 6sp

Running battery cable for a battery relocation in my RX-8. Battery on the passenger side in the trunk, down the passenger side rocker under the carpet and trim, and through the firewall into the engine bay.

Perfect spot is the clutch cylinder hole for the RHD version of my car... But can't get a drill in there, much less one with a hole saw in the chuck... It hits the wheel well.

Interior is partially blocked with the HVAC components.

Any suggestions?

I'm about to chuck the hole saw up to my Milwaukee "Insider" ratchet. That'll fit, but it'll be slow as hell.

The race was pressed flush to the gear teeth below it, no room at all for a bearing puller. Should have been a bit harder with the hammer and punch, a bit softer with the dremel.

Pretty sure this won’t really matter, but still a sadness. I’m getting ready to fully replace everything worn on the shafts and REM polish the gears and bearings.

I brought this old Mazda b2000 back to life after sitting in the woods for 10 years. Lots of work into her but the biggest thing was the head rebuild and head gasket replacement.

Did the old sand her till she’s flat trick with the head and she seems to be running okay enough to invest in a Webber carb.

How does the engine sound? Engine is loud since the exhaust is popping off in the engine bay, but I plan to get new pipes after the Weber is in.

I removed the gas barrel. I still have to drain it. Also I need to disconnect the fuel pump that was in it.