r/handtools

Super slow build (only 1 afternoon a week available) but the centerpiece of my workshop is finally done!

Low Roman bench as a bonus :)

Made from black cherry, apple, pear and white ash.

Took me almost half a year of very unconstant work, interrupted by everything else i wanted to do at the moment.

Gappy joinery and unevenness will be excused by being “handmade” so if there’s any criticism on that part - please don’t i will cry.

Finished with clear matte osmo.

Hey all — new account here: Coral Woodwork (NC)

This is my new main account for buying/selling/restoring hand tools.

Formerly u/Specialist_Ice1896 — same person behind the bench. I’ve been selling tuned users and vintage planes here for a while and wanted to move to a more consistent name. I love getting planes in the hands of users.

I’ve got a new batch of planes ready now:

• Fully disassembled, cleaned, oiled, and waxed

• Soles flattened

• Irons sharpened

• Ready to go straight to work out of the box

Mostly Stanley, plus a mix of quality user-grade Stanleys and some solid budget off-brand options.

Prices are very reasonable (example: $80 for a Stanley No. 5).

Because of the volume I’m moving, I won’t be able to hold items — first come, first served.

If you’ve bought from me before, feel free to vouch — always appreciated.

I’ll be posting inventory here going forward.

Thanks!

Hi all,

Long time lurker, first time poster here. I’ve worked almost exclusively with power tools in a fab shop, but I’ve been slowly getting into hand tools and I’m loving it so far. I’ve learned a ton from restoring a #4 plane and low angle block plane that I’ve been incorporating into my workflow with great success. So I recently bought a wooden plane with a long bed with the intention of setting it up as a jointing plane for big boards and table tops. Found at an antique market for $25, I bought it because of the length and the condition of the iron. Without any work it takes pretty good shavings already, however the bed seems to have a plug and a couple cracks. The plug is slightly proud of the rest of the bed, and it has a little bit of play when I press on it. Curious how you guys would go about fixing this up, or if you would consider the body too compromised. My thought was to add some epoxy around the plug and cracks and then plane the whole surface flat, Am I dooming myself to further cracking when the wood expands and shrinks if I do that? The wedge has seen better days too, wondering how much work that needs to be effective. Thanks in advance!

Forging a Nail Header and Nails at my shop. Will try to post the Video Link in Comments. If not, you can find my historic trades and tools at YouTube: ResistTheGrind. Thanks!

Hi I bought a drawknife recently and I was hoping to get some advice on restoring it. I've looked at some videos on YouTube.

The edge is chipped a bit in a few places, sized 1-2 mm . I don't own a grinder. What would be the best way to restore this?

The guy I bought it from said not to use a grinder but a piece of wood with stapled sandpaper and just pull the knife till the edge comes back but I feel like it'll take years considering the size of the dents on the edge?

Also what's the best way to remove rust from the handle and the 'cap' on the handle?

Bonus question: I'm also restoring a saw and can't figure out how to remove the rust that's on the inside of the wooden handle! (last picture)p0

Thanks yall in advance !

After working to flatten this plane sole by hand using sandpaper for a while and getting nowhere, I took it to the belt sander. Even after that, I still can’t get the front of the mouth flat. Is this worth trying to restore? I think it’s a Stanley #5

Found these old screwdrivers in a box. I know Wiha is professional quality, and “W-Germany” stands for West Germany, so I’m guessing they’re from before the reunification of East and West Germany when the Wall fell in 1990.

Inherited two panels from my grandfather after his passing. I’d like resharpen and repair them for my own use and I’m familiar with sharpening techniques and saw anatomy so I don’t mind the learning curve and I don’t want to spend a lot of money for new modern saws. My question is: based off the teeth structure which saw do you think is profiled for a cross cut and which for a rip. Both saws have features of each profile. The non cracked handle pic 1&2) is a Disston saw with a known 8 tpi. The cracked handle panel (3&4) is unknown brand and unknown tpi. The disston teeth face looks uniform and chisel-like but seem to have a bevel alternating. The unknown saw doesn’t seem to have a bevel on the side profile of the teeth but the face of the tooth is more triangular shaped than chisel. The tooth set of the unknown saw also appears to be more wide than the disston and has less ppi from what I could tell. Could a better trained eye help determine which is which or should I just reprofile each saw according to the TPI?

does anyone here have one of these tools?