Absolutely loving this game already and this might be my favorite car so far

I've long wanted to install a light bar on my 2020 WRX, and finally got around to it during the Victoria Day long weekend.

Some notes on the items purchased:

First: The light bar

https://ebay.us/m/lI8W3w

Second: The switch

https://smkfabrication.com/product/subaru-dash-switch-type-3b/

I started by removing the front bumper. After that, I bolted in the light bars themselves. The unit I chose is from eBay, but very similar to the Diode Dynamics one.

Once bolted in, I ran the cabling from the lights to the battery/fuse panel. My lights came with a relay and inline fuse, which I tucked under the cover beside the fuse panel above the wheel well and zip ties in place. I ran the cabling through the rubber grommet inside the wheel well and connected to the switch in the cabin. I did seal up around the rubber grommet using marine sealant because I'm paranoid about water ingress.

After buttoning everything up, it looks amazing. It's brighter than I initially thought, so I really only intend to use it on back roads.

I repeatedly tested the lights as I ran the wiring to be sure I didn't clip anything.

Edit: posting here in case it might help someone else along the way, and I'm happy with how it turned out.

Hey everybody. So this is my fourth wrx, but the first one I’ve ever worked on myself. And I’m starting to enjoy that part of it. So I’m kind of at the point of wanting a project but not really having any definite needs at the moment. Currently, I’ve got all the Cobb stage 2 stuff, (intake, charge pipe, intercooler) the flex fuel kit, and a custom local tune. Also have primitive skid plate and somebody’s shift stop, I forget who. As the pics show, I live on a dirt road. Do a lot of my fun driving on dirt. But I also live in a foothills canyon, tons of windy, hilly paved roads to rip up as well. So I want to find a compromise in my build between the two. And as a newbie to doing my own work, I also don’t really know what’s good for each specific driving style.

Like, for instance, sway bars. What do I want? I imagine as stiff as possible for the street, and probably just take them off completely for dirt? So what’s the compromise there? I’ve heard just do a rear and leave the front alone? Any suggestions welcomed.

Same on suspension. I know they’re very different asks for street vs dirt, so it’s probably more one or the other, but if anybody’s got any decent middle ground setups they’ve had good luck with, lay it on me. (I’m gonna have to save up a bit for this, so wont be right now, but I’d still love to hear suggestions)

Brakes..? I’d love to eventually go small enough to allow for 15’s, but in the meantime…?

And also just any fun little “joy of driving” mods anybody’s done that could keep me busy, scratch the car project itch I’ve currently got. Short shifter, pitch stop, etc. what were your favorite/least favorite of those type projects?

Pics included to help illustrate my mod style. Instead of one nice name brand tire, I got two Chinesium sets of tires for the same price. The aggressive dirt looking ones are actually a light truck tire in the tallest size that I was told could fit, and the street ones are knock offs in the widest size I was told would fit. I figure if I get the same mileage out of both sets combined that I would have out of one set of the name brand, I’ve come out ahead. Spent the same amount, got the same mileage, but had twice the fun. My mod preferences would be the same. No concern for looks or image or recognition or anything like that, just looking for more fun.

Thanks in advance
Chris

Just hit 50k miles a little while ago. I bought this car cash 2 years ago in Jan of 24’. I tuned with DMann shortly after with a Mishimoto intake and borla catback exhaust. I’ve had one issue with this car and that issue was a spark plug gasket. She’s now running a mishi FMIC with an Air Oil Separator (AOC) from IAG (with a re-tune ofc). I’m running Shell Rotella T6 every 3k miles. And this car can haul the whole family as well.
If you’re thinking about tuning a VB, just do it. It’s a completely different car when tuned. I’ll die on the hill that a tune is a must on this car if you want the WRX experience. If you don’t tune the VB, I feel, you’re driving around neutered version.
I haven’t driven many cars but among them are Camaro (2 separate gens), Eclipse, Integra, Model 3 and this is my favorite car.
I won’t ever sell this bitch, I’m just gonna start saving now for the next one. IAG block for when this one goes out.

Bumpers not pictured, they’re in my closet lol. Main focus is weather proofing obviously and then turning into a proper rolling shell. Mostly stripped already.

Hey everyone this is Cody with KCG Motorsports LLC if you don’t know I am an aftermarket performance and OEM parts and accessories vendor and We’re officially running a sale / group buy on CAE Racing shifters. We currently have 3 orders pending payment and only 1 slot remaining. To reduce costs and acquire a discount we are doing a group purchase if the slot is not filled within 10 days we will proceed with our current order.

CAE shifters are chassis-mounted short shifters designed to eliminate slop and unwanted movement while delivering a precise, solid feel. Built with high-quality materials and manufactured in Germany, these are one of the best shifter options available .

Available in two variations / street or race
Available in raw aluminum or anodized black
Many color options for shift knob

Lead time is approximately 1 month after the order is processed.

Pricing varies depending on vehicle make and model, but as an example, a complete kit for 04-07 STI including shipping (anywhere in the contiguous US) taxes, and tariffs :( comes out to around $1,998

If you are interested please reach out to us!
Email: info@kcgmotorsports.com
WhatsApp: +1 323-949-1111

FOR MORE INFO ON THE SHIFTER CONTACT US OR BROWSE CAE WEBSITE

https://cae-racing.de

So still new to the subie life and after doing some preventative mods/upgrades/tunes, I’m looking to start working on the exterior. I wanna get off the stock wheels and get some new ones. So just looking for some advice or suggestions on what you guys think would look good or what you’re rocking. I just ordered some coilovers and the wheel spec im looking at is 18x9.5 +35. If there’s a better Fitment let me know! Here’s my car for reference.

(Edit: not sure why the quality posted weird sorry)

This was a 2003 JDM model with EJ205. Had it almost 14 years and sold it decade ago. Lot of STI parts catalogue went into it including VF34 turbo with STi GeNome muffler which was the car's party peice that sets off car alarms. Never had a problem with it still running strong. Is an amazing vehicle even today.

2010 engine how do I remove this residue best i assume its coolant

Was unaware that gauge face was removable till this exact moment.

Hi! I am swapping my rack and pinion on my 2017 sti. This thing is r u s t y! I can’t seem to separate the rack from the steering column. I have the bolt removed and I’ve been prying the thing with a flathead, and spraying pb blaster for literally days now. I’m debating removing the top bolt and removing the entire assembly. Any comments here - is that a reasonable approach? Total mechanical rookie here. Thank you!

I recently bought my first car! A new-to-me '03 WRX! I'm trying to learn more about this car and how to take care of it, but I cannot figure out what this is. The previous owner did some modifications to the car (ej207 swap, intake, tune, stereo system, etc.). I haven't found what system this goes to, however. Is this a stock option, or an aftermarket piece?

Was being dumb and hit something backing up, how much should it cost to get fixed?

To preface this has been my (realistic) dream car since I was a little girl. Last summer after months of searching, I found my baby. Pearl white 2016 STi in amazing condition. It bought it for 26k. Before yall crucify me, I paid that much for a 9 year year old car because it only had 54k miles on it and the dealer put a brand new clutch in it. I had it inspected as well, great condition. Engine was completely unmodified with the exception of an air oil separator. I took great care of her, full take of premium, no crazy pulls constantly, oil change every 3000 miles, kept motul in the truck and checked levels every gas refill. 3 months into having her, I blew a hole in my engine block. Was devastating emotionally and financially. Spent 18k on a brand new oem engine. Many people were confused why I made this decision. “Why wouldn’t you have just got a new car?” they asked. But at this point I still owed 23k on the loan, so I would have been making payments for nothing, on top of payments on a the new car. Luckily enough, my parents were nice enough to pay for half of it so I fixed it.

Fast forward to now and I have decided it’s time to let her go. I recently made the decision to move to New York to go to auto technician school. I don’t need a car there, and I could easily save enough money to move there by the end of the year if I no longer have to pay for insurance/car payments/gas/ maintenance/ etc. I looked up how much a dealer would give me for my car, and it was only about 18k. I feel like this is because there’s no option to explain that there is a brand new OEM engine with only 10k miles in it. So my question is, how much do you think I could get for this? Is it possible to get more than what a dealer is offering? Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Also wanna say, this car was my absolute pride and joy. Anyone that knows me knows how much I loved this car. This is really hard to do but I wanna make sure I can get as much as I can for it(,: