r/Volkswagen

Hello all, I woke up on Friday to a dead car (2024 A3 8Y FL 35 TFSI MHEV), a dead 12V and a cascade of errors. No big issue, gave it a quick jump start, a long drive and now the battery is holding 11.7V at rest - basically meaning it's finished.

I straight away bought another battery, an AGM model from Varta, which should be a drop in replacement. Or is it? I spotted this strange excerpt in Erwin:

https://preview.redd.it/inc7cvspcptg1.png?width=1064&format=png&auto=webp&s=7d88eff52ffc50ba255bae307b61596d3858bf0f

https://preview.redd.it/9uh4kwhqcptg1.png?width=1092&format=png&auto=webp&s=98d2af5977bc692296e1a9befe7ec697df4b46f7

Section 1.2.2 is a section on EFB batteries. Section 1.2.1 is describing a wet battery and Section 1.2.3 is describing an AGM battery (with the same words "replace AGM with AGM".

Why would VAG require EFB for EFB replacement on the A3? My understanding was both EFB and AGM are suitable for stop start cars. The plan is to also update the battery adaptation to "AGM" using OBD11 when the battery is replaced to ensure the charging voltage and BMS works correctly. Is it a case of VAG just making sure that people don't swap in any random battery compared to stock and minimise risk of errors (i.e. people putting in a wet battery instrad of the OEM EFB)?

I suppose I may have multiple questions on this… I have a customer that had someone trying to diagnose a multiple cylinder misfire/ poor acceleration/ hard to start. They came to me with new plugs, coils, oil separator/pcv, and new Bosch MAF sensor installed by someone else.

Codes upon arrival

P2177 and p2188 lean condition off idle and rich condition at idle

P0300,1,2,3,4

Hide a cylinder code

P0491 AIR system insufficient flow bank 1

While idling engine vehicle runs great after accelerating short term goes -25% and then vehicle will eventually throw 1 and 4 constant misfire and then extended crank/ hard to start condition thereafter. With spark plugs removed after this condition 1 and 4 are fouled but not wet (2&3 are clean/ appear new), plug / coil swap no change. Compression/ leakage test show no issues/ running compression looks good (I’ve seen bad rocker arm bearings miss a beat,no missed beats seen). Cylinders appear clean not much carbon buildup, intake valves do have carbon buildup on intake side (I do plan on walnut blasting to clean them but I don’t believe this to be main issue). High pressure fuel actual and desired match whole time. Crankcase vacuum at dipstick is around 2-2.5” supposed spec anywhere from 1-3”. Smoke tested crankcase/intake system and no leaks found. 2 odd things seen on scan tool was while monitoring MAF g/s drop to zero at time when throttle snapping (at first snap 0 then up depending on snap, I haven’t seen any read zero before so that threw me off) and also on hard snap there is a pretty consistent double knock/click sound heard at intake camshaft (this camshaft does have the variable style lobes? Is this a normal noise when the actuator solenoids change love position?). It double clicks/knock on start of snap and then when rpm’s drop back down it double click/knocks again which would be consistent with solenoids changing the intake lobes?

I’m suspecting bad injectors for misfires and also performing walnut blasting - any other things I should check/look at/ check

Does that intake camshaft normally make the noise? I had removed solenoids and pcv and used boroscope to inspect lobes as best as possible with no worn down camshafts or abnormalities. All solenoids 7.5ohms resistance and all activates the same when supplying power/ground.

Is maf drop like that on a throttle snap normal?

Wanting to learn as much as possible on these engines as I currently work on almost any make and model that come through the shop. Thanks for any input.

Also first post on Reddit. Google brought me to Volkswagen page when reviewing another’s separate issue. So I hope this is within community rules (thought about the guidelines after typing this out… smh)

SPECS BELOW!!

I’m looking to buy a MK4 Wagon with an ALH TDI engine. I would be buying it from my neighbor who knows everything that‘s been done to it and who has plenty of knowledge when it comes to VW’s. I don’t know everything that’s done to it but here’s what I do know.

• 190k miles
• Maintenance has been kept up with, with newish tires, brakes, and I’m sure fluids are decently fresh.
• It was originally automatic but was swapped to a manual, meaning it has the fuel pump and cruise control from an automatic (not sure if the manuals had cruise control), along with whatever else came specifically in the automatics. Mileage on the trans is unknown, but along with everything else here, once I get anymore info I will post in the comments.
• Recently replaced: Fuel pump, upgraded clutch, rear shocks, and a few other things that I can’t remember but again, will post once I get more info.
• Timing done at 130k
• High trim. Not sure what all was offered in these but it has heated leather fully-adjustable seats, sunroof, CD changer, roof racks, all the early 2000’s bells and whistles.
• Has 5% tint all around, and a 5% eyebrow which saves me from doing something I was already planning on.
• Comes with some aftermarket stuff; R32 wheels, a hitch, euro exclusive tail lights (I live in the US), decently new headlights, LED lights all around, and comes on stock suspension but also a set of like ≈$800 coil overs (not yet sure the brand).
• Not a single spec of rust, body or frame, which is impossible to find since I live above the salt belt.

I believe that’s all the info I have as of right now, but again I will keep you guys posted as I learn more about it. Let me know if you think it’s worth it. If not, why? And what is there to look out for with these? Thank you!

EDIT: If this makes a difference, I’m in central PA so decently cold winters but I will have a working truck here soon, I love VW’s, especially the MK4 wagons, and it will be my first car so it’ll be daily’d with a good mix of short and lengthyish trips.

EDIT AGAIN: 2002 is the year, so next year I could get an antique registration that would help me avoid registration costs and would save me from inspections. Also, if this sounds like a better option there‘s a 2013 manual TDI for sale in my area, 90k miles for $9,500 that I could get more info on.

Hi all, I recently bought a 2017 Tiguan Wolfsburg, it has the CCTA but has a nasty rod knock and horrible misfires in cylinders 2 and 4. Planning on just replacing the engine unless someone suggest otherwise. Are all “CCTA” engines the same? What other models share this engine that would bolt in? Also depending on mileage of the new engine, what should I replace before I throw it in besides the Waterpump/thermostat, pcv, and chains guides and tensioner?

Just wondering if there are any things in particular to watch out for with this car, or pay particular attention to.

Recently acquired this car and will be doing my first oil change soon.

Just have to buy the special drain plug star socket, and oil filter socket. Any tips on which are the best ones to get for that?

(I went to autozone but they didn't have the star socket, and couldn't tell me which one I needed for my particular oil filter).

I've been a fan of VW ever since I had my license and I just never got around to purchasing one. I honestly never even drove one until this past weekend when I took a 2019 Jetta Highline for a test drive. I'm in the market for a commuter for work and I've driven pretty much everything out there but really fell in love with the Jetta.

My price range seems like I'm going to end up with something in the 2018-2021 maybe 2022 range. I wasn't necessarily wanting a Highline but after sitting in it I couldn't help but think what a car. I honestly would have purchased it but the colour would have been my last choice and after doing more research I discovered the 2019 is probably the least desirable year in my price range and they are plagued with potential transmission issues.

For people with experience in Jettas should I really be that concerned with the 2019 Transmission issue? How are the Jettas in the manual option? Seems pretty hard to come across in my area at least. Are you happy with your comfort lines? I do love the Highline finish but figure that massive sunroof could lead to problems down the line. I'm highly contemplating looking for one of these Jettas in a manual or just getting something 2020 and newer.

Thoughts??

My girlfriend wants to buy a locking gas cap for her 2018 Passat but I'm having a heck of a time finding one online. I know next to nothing about cars, so I'm assuming there is some reason they are hard to find that I just don't get.

Do any of you have a suggestion? I thought maybe the gas cap cover locked in place when the doors are locked (like my car) but she says she can open the cover by just pressing it in. She had some gas stolen last week and is looking to keep it from happening again.

Thanks in advance for any advice you folks might have!

Looking for thoughts on good experiences or maybe not when you made the change. Love the car but new ones are just too expensive and not sure i can get comfortable with mid 2014-5 models.TIA

What was your best catch, to get your Volkswagen T3 significant more quiet?

Current F&I manager here.

Our store has taken a serious hit in sales. We used to push 120–150 units pre-COVID (and even shortly after), but now we’re stuck in the 50–65 range monthly. This isn’t just a one-off bad stretch—it’s been this way for a few years now, and honestly, the idea of things “bouncing back” feels pretty unrealistic at this point.

I could go all day about what needs to improve internally—sales process, management, accountability, etc.—but that’s not really my main concern here.

What I’m trying to figure out is: is this happening across the board for this brand, or is it just our store?

I’m starting to seriously consider jumping brands because the deal flow just isn’t there. And as you all know, in finance, volume is everything.

To put it into perspective:

I’m spinning around 30 deals for the entire month, hitting the pay plan caps… and still not cracking $10k.

Anyone else in a similar situation right now? Or is your store still moving solid volume?

hi-

I am selling my 2019 Civic lx sedan with 91000 miles for approximately 1170$. "Good car," but time for a change; mechanically flawless with a 60k service by Honda done & regular 5000 mile synthetic oil changes.

Recent tuneup, brakes & rotors, factory recall & replacement on AC compressor and fuel pump.

I have an offer in hand.

1 owner car.

Looking to buy: Jettas , Passat's and Audi A4's

specific cars I'm looking at:

2016 Audi A4 Quattro 2.0; automatic (for the people);

S line

aesthetics : near flawless condition of exterior body and interior.

Metallic blue on beige

mileage 143 k

price: 6900$ thru a well reviewed private party seller on FB

mechanical: timing done, brakes, assumed transmission fluid flush & replacement, and basic stuff. A record of dealer service, too, fwiw. Seller purchased from dealer.

Test drive : drives strong, tight and holds road very well.

2011 Jetta 2.5 SE Sunroof, Leather seats.also Automatic (for the people)

76000 miles

seller : autohaus nj

Mechanically: sound

Aesthetically: sharp

White on beige

Asking price: 7600

Seen but not test driven yet.

Car appears to be an auction purchase.

2013 A4 Quattro Automatic Premium Plus

mileage: 101k

price 6900

mechanically: timing is not done, turbo is strong," basic upkeep" done.

Aesthetics: flawless in pics at least

Gray on Black

seller: seems to be sane, well intentioned but unreviewed FB private party.

Any thoughts?

thanks