So I’d read a few things about Philips having changed their Sonicare 3000 from a USB-C connection to a proprietary one.. so I thought I’d reach out to Philips directly, since their product pages don’t say anything useful..
This is what I got 😡😡
This is my second unit the original one was louder, and this one’s more softer not that loud is it normal
I bought my Philips Lumea laser a year ago, and the first two times I used it, I set it on the highest setting and it felt pretty comfortable, but every other time after that it would start overheating after a few minutes of using it. I stopped using it and tried again recently, but it continues overheating and I have to make pauses every few minutes and wait for it to cool down. It doesn’t matter which level I set it to, it overheats even on the lowest setting and burns me. I use it on clean and shaven skin. I don’t know if I’m doing something wrong or if the laser is not working well. Can someone give me some advice?
Any ideas why my screens go all funny like this everytime pls? Takes a couple of restarts before they eventually work. Very Annoying
Hi all,
I recently bought a Philips Ambilight 50PUS8500 primarily because I love the ambilight so much. However I have a few issues.....
It feels less like a TV and more of a dodgy link that takes you to a variety of pop ups... The TV has hundreds of random apps that I cant seem to remove? Things like French news, Games, a million other random streaming services I've never heard of nor do I want.
There is so much shit on the TV its so slow to load, and because of this when I start the TV it loads, and reloads and then opens up the "featured" full screen thing (essentially ads) after 5-10 seconds of inactivity - often for apps like disney I dont even use.
On top of this I cant seem to remove any and I seem to have lost the app store? I was using Apple TV last week which I downloaded from the app store, now I cant access the store or find apply TV.
When I open netflix, it brings the accounts up but I cant select any, like the app crashes but I can still navigate out of the app. The only way to resolve this seem to be doing a full power cycle at the wall.
The UI and Titan sucks, asides from just using a Fire TV stick, is there anyway to resolve this?
Hi, i have an issue with my philips tv 55pus8500/12, I use both tv and external speaker through jack speaker but when i start the tv after a long time (overnight mostly), the sounds only from the tv and i have a static through the external speaker and all the time i have to switch the audio back to only tv speaker and back to both for it to work again, is there a permanent fix ? i’ve tried a bit of everything (switching through all audio setting they have and switching hdmi) (im using the tv with an apple tv on hdmi 3 so i have no arc bc i read, it might was the issue; it wasn’t)
I have a 55inch phillips ambilight tv for the last 5 years and overall it has been great.
However in the last year I have noticed dim patches in verticals across the screen.
It is most pronounced in black or white screens.
Is it dying or are there ways of fixing it?
Vintage Dutch Philips Logo i found in my archive for PHILIPS Radio Sellers from back in the day. They would hang this in front of shops to get noticed by costumers and let people know that they were selling it.
Hi all,
I’d like to share my findings regarding the Philips 2025 lineup (810/910/950), specifically about eARC and audio passthrough.
On paper, these TVs advertise eARC support, including uncompressed 5.1 and 7.1 audio. In practice, however, it does not work as expected.
PCM over eARC (bypass mode)
When the TV is set to bypass:
- PCM multichannel (5.1 / 7.1) does not work
- This happens on both the PlayStation 5 and a PC
- The signal falls back to stereo
Additionally:
- Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD are not passed through
- The TV manual also states bypass only supports Dolby Digital and DTS Digital formats
- This effectively means only compressed bitstream formats are passed through eARC in bypass mode
I have also contacted Philips support directly, and they confirmed that Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD are not supported due to missing licensing in the 2025 lineup. Therefore, these formats cannot be passed through eARC.
Multichannel mode (without bypass)
When setting the TV to multichannel:
- Surround sound does work
- But the TV processes / re-encodes the audio internally
- This introduces noticeable audio delay
This makes it unsuitable for gaming.
PS5-specific issue
The PlayStation 5 uses:
- Linear PCM for surround
- Dolby MAT for Atmos
Issues:
- PCM does not work in bypass (falls back to stereo)
- Dolby Atmos does not work via bypass because the PS5 uses Dolby MAT (PCM-based Atmos)
- The TV cannot pass Dolby MAT through eARC
- As a result, both the PS5 and TV fall back to Dolby Digital
However, when the PS5 is connected directly to the soundbar, Dolby Atmos works correctly without issues.
PC (7.1 PCM) issue
On a gaming PC:
- 7.1 PCM is not passed through in bypass
- It falls back to stereo
Same limitation as on PS5.
Conclusion
Although eARC is present:
- PCM multichannel is not passed through in bypass
- Lossless codecs (Dolby TrueHD / DTS-HD) are not supported due to missing licensing
- Only compressed formats (Dolby Digital / DTS Digital / DD+) are passed through in bypass
- You are forced to choose between:
- correct audio without surround (bypass)
- surround with audio delay (multichannel processing)
In practice, eARC does not behave as expected on this TV lineup.
Workaround
My current workaround:
- Running a second HDMI cable from my PC directly to the Samsung Q950A soundbar
- Windows detects it as a second display
- Manually setting audio output to that display
Result:
- Direct PCM 7.1 to the soundbar
- No delay
- Proper surround sound
Additionally, I have also moved my Nvidia Shield directly to the soundbar instead of the TV HDMI eARC input, as this was the only stable way to get proper Dolby TrueHD passthrough working.
Are there others experiencing the same behaviour
It's a phillips perfect care 6000 that has done nothing but dissapoint me. My previous cheaper 30 year old iron had a much smoother steam production so i don't know if this is the standard now or not.
Hey all, as the title suggests I am trying to hunt down the name or model of some Philips speakers from the 2000s / early 2010s.
I believe they were a 2.1 setup, but it's been about 15 years since I last saw them. I remember they were primarily black and red with silver grills, and I do remember that the receiver / main unit had a CD changer in it. The most standout feature of this particular setup was that each speaker had a VU meter on it, but it was designed to look like a gauge cluster / tachometer from a car.
tl;dr my ex step brother had this setup circa 2009-2012, and I always really loved it. I'm trying to see if I can hunt down a set for sale, or at least learn what they were called so I can track listings.
TIA!
My TV is a Philips 50pfl1908/f8, a week ago after a rain shut the power off for 1 second it began turn on with the backlight also turning on, but no video was showing (not even the Philips logo was showing) but the audio was playing fine we left it disconnected from power after that, after about 1 week we connected it again and now it shows video again momentarily, but the brightness is unstable >!(it sometimes flickers between being a bit dim and being super bright)!<, but after a while >!(inconsistent, one try wasted 5 minutes, the one after lasted 2 hours, the one after that lasted 10 minutes)!< showing video the image freezes and then fades quickly