r/MSILaptops

Valorant won't let me run the game as a Vanguard issue pops up and announces that I need to have Secure Boot on in order for it to run. The initial problem was TPM 2.0, which I enabled in BIOS, but then I had the UEFI Secure Boot announcement pop up.

If I turn on Secure Boot, it won't let me past the BIOS Screen as the error message reads "Secure Boot Violation, Invalid Signature". The BIOS mode is on UEFI, not on Legacy or on UEFI + CSM, TPM 2.0 is active so I'm not sure what to do. I can get past the BIOS screen once I turn Secure Boot off, but I can't load the game if that's the case.

Is there a fix to this or could anybody help with a little more information? Thank you!

Recently acquired a Katana 15 HX B14W and I'm looking for advice on a laptop riser for use while gaming (I often use a lapboard) that won't scratch the bottom of the laptop. My prior laptop's bottom looks awful after years of use with a cheap riser (like this: https://a.co/d/0fPkoYib ) and I would like to avoid that if possible. I'm not sure if the solution is to cover a metal riser with felt or something to prevent scratches or if there is a more glamourous solution available.

I know some level of abrasion is likely inevitable from my use scenario (lapboard so more movement than sitting stationary on a desk) but I am a degenerate that likes to game in bed or lounging on the couch.

Thanks for any recommendations!

MSI KATANA A17 AI B8VG

Empiezo con la historia, lo compré el año pasado, todo genial, a los 7-8 meses, bum se me apaga al intentar instalar un juego, investigo y procesador llegando a los 99° y se apaga por protección, cambio de pasta termica y limpieza....

Seguia igual, lo envío al servicio técnico de msi por garantía.

Me reajustan los drivers y parámetros y me lo devuelven.

A las 2 semanas de nuevo el mismo problema, lo vuelvo a enviar...

Me cambian el disipador y hasta hace 2 semanas estaba todo bien.

Otra vez el mismo problema, abro de nuevo..., limpio..., cambio pasta térmica... y nada... sigue igual....

Con chatgpt empiezo a hacer pruebas y si desconectaba el cargador no se sobrecalentaba, me dice chatgpt que la disipación puede ser mala y el turbo del procesador puede ser muy agresivo, le bajo al procesador la potencia un 3% lo tengo en un 97% y pongo el modo de uso equilibrado en MSI center y sorpresa no se sobrecalentaba, haciendo pruebas me doy cuenta que la aplicación de MSI CENTER ES UNA BASURA, para hacer las curvas de los ventiladores solo la puedes hacer en extreme perforance, aparte que los valores tampoco se me guardarán, reaccionaba muy lento, por desgracia tarde y a veces se apagaba.

Conclusión se me hace raro que estuviera varios meses bien y ahora tengo el mismo problema de nuevo y le tenga que bajar la potencia al procesador, no sé si volver a enviarlo al servicio técnico de nuevo o buscarme la vida o comprarme un portátil nuevo.

He actualizado todos los drivers y he actualizado bios descargándola de la página oficial.

¿Consejos?

So this has only happened twice so far. The first time was a couple days ago. I thought it was overheated, even though it was just idling while I was doing other things. I bought a new cooling tray, but it happened again this morning, and it was definitely not overheated.

The power button wasn't lit, so I looked up a troubleshooting guide and did the unplug and hold the power button technique. It still took a minute or two to actually turn back on, though.

I have no idea how to look up anything that might tell me why it actually turned off. I'm hoping someone can help me with that.

My other thought is maybe the power cord came loose long enough for it to go to sleep. Regardless of whether or not the power cord was actually the problem, another thing I would like help with is figuring out whether or not I can set a separate brightness level for when it's plugged in vs when it's on battery. That's a setting I used on all my old laptops to be a quick indicator of whether the cord had come loose, but I can't find a way to set that on this one.

Here are my computer specs.

Device name MSI

Processor Intel(R) Core(TM) Ultra 9 275HX (2.70 GHz)

Installed RAM 64.0 GB (63.4 GB usable)

Device ID 426374CE-B089-40D3-823B-4DCB9C1A54CA

Product ID 00355-62554-51985-AAOEM

System type 64-bit operating system, x64-based processor

Pen and touch No pen or touch input is available for this display

Edition Windows 11 Pro

Version 25H2

Installed on ‎11/‎25/‎2025

OS build 26200.7623

Experience Windows Feature Experience Pack 1000.26100.275.0

Picked up a used Thin 15 B13UC and the battery isn't charging.

Battery shows 0% with the charge symbol.

Battery light is flashing orange

I've tried:

1. unplug and hold the power button for 60 seconds and then plugged and started

2. the pinhole for EC reset doesn't have a button (verified by taking the bottom shell off)

3. removed the bottom shell to verify the battery connector is firmly attached

4. no battery bloating

5. deleted the battery drivers in device manager

6. tried using the MSI center battery calibration - but with 0% charge it just shuts off when it tries to discharge

Is there anything else I can try?

My charger is a 20v 120watt ADP-120VH

The charging port seems secure and no wiggle/play

Not 5 minutes after I turned on my laptop from a complete shutdown (I was asleep), just had firefox, idm, and nvidia open, nothing else, the screen suddenly turns black (not off, black),

and after a short while it restarted, failed into bios, I saved & exit without changing anything, and it is fine now. What gives?

Attached is the reliability history screenshot

How do I prevent this in the future?

Failed start is also fairly common, starts into bios, save & exit without changing anything, only then can it go into the windows login screen. How do I fix this one too?

https://preview.redd.it/bu7v884ow7ug1.png?width=661&format=png&auto=webp&s=5df652e9cbb95b1b60b3c55a69765a6a2bdab719

Hi everyone, I recently bought a used GF66 Katana and tried to update the BIOS. I downloaded the file from the MSI website, loaded it onto a USB drive and launched the update from the BIOS. Everything seemed to go smoothly, but after the BIOS flash completed the laptop turned off and the power button started blinking rapidly. I waited more than 20 minutes but nothing changed, so I tried holding the power button for 30 seconds, and pressed the reset button with a pin for 30 seconds — but nothing worked. Right now, if I unplug the charger the button stops blinking, then when I plug it back in it blinks slowly at first and then goes back to blinking fast like before. I really don't know what to think — what could have happened? And most importantly, how do I get out of this?

Is it better to go for an Asus tuf or an Msi cyborg? The budget for the Asus rog strix is ​​not enough. Or is there another recommended laptop? Those who use it, any issues?

I've had this MSI laptop model for over 2 and a half years now and even since around 2 months ago, when doing activities that I've consistently done without issue before such as recording gameplay on games like roblox, the fans have started becoming insanely loud, never like before, which makes using the laptop super inconvenient in a lot of places due to how loud it is. I also experience severe lag spikes now after around an hour of recording on video games. I was told to get a repaste job and the fans cleaned out which I did, with the guy saying there was barely any dirt inside the fans , and yet the issue still persists, so I'm unsure of what to do now really.

Hello everyone!

I want to share my experience using the msi gf63 12ve laptop, and my attempts to undervolt it.

In general, the laptop is more than satisfactory to me. Over the past two years of use, I have played all the games I wanted to play at fairly high settings and have only caught overheating once during all use, but this one time was enough to send the laptop to the service, where I was told that the processor had failed. Since it was a warranty repair, because the failure occurred after half a year of use, it didn't really worry me, but it calmed me down a little, because I didn't have to repair it with my own money))

I see a lot of hate coming from users for its cheap assembly, weak hinges, single fan, but this is my first gaming laptop that was bought with my own hard-earned money) Therefore, buying it was a bit impulsive, and in general I wanted MSI, knowing that once it was a company that made cool laptops with no less cool hardware inside, but since then their policy has changed a bit.

So, after a short story, I'll move on to the problem itself, which is why it all started - overheating.

Or rather, a temperature of 95 degrees and powerful throttling that haunts me in all tasks that require some kind of powerful processor.

At first I thought to reduce the heating threshold, like let it throttle, but at a lower temperature, for example 80-85 degrees, but when I went into the BIOS, failure awaited me - the absence of any parameter that is at least similar to what I am looking for.

Then, I sat on Reddit for a while and realized that it turns out that the manufacturer simply hid most of the settings, so using the combination of left ALT/right SHIFT and CTRL/F2, I finally opened this BIOS, finally resetting the temperature limit from 95 to 87 I did not see any changes AT ALL, the processor still throttles at 95 degrees!!

Then I started to crawl around Reddit in search of processor undervolting, although I don't understand why it could be dangerous because you're just dropping the operating voltage at a constant frequency, and if you drop too much, you might just get a blue screen, after which you need to add the voltage back and no one will be able to do anything (if my opinion is wrong, please correct me, because the conclusion was made just by reading a few articles on this topic)

And as it turned out, Intel had blocked access to processor undervolting, and all that was possible was to change the resistance parameters of the PL1/PL2 input keys, or AC/DC.

Which I did, thanks to several people from Reddit, if I don't forget, I'll attach their posts.

Therefore, after watching more than one video, reading the Reddit that I was able to find, because for some reason there were very few people who do this)))))))

I reduced the factory AC/DC 230 to 140 with the gemini turned on, and as a result I got STILL 95 degrees) I serviced the laptop myself, replaced the thermal paste with arctic mx-4, cleaned the fans, wiped the laptop itself with alcohol wipes every week to remove dust (it's very dirty, it worries me)

And I also saw that someone suggested changing the undervolting parameters through the throttlestop program, but it doesn't have access to changing the parameters.

Here are my laptop specs: Intel core i5 12450H Rtx 4050 6 GB 16 GB ddr4 512 ssd PCIe 4.0 1 TB SATA/600