
Transparent acrylic with diode laser
1/4 acrylic with Xtool S1 40W

1/4 acrylic with Xtool S1 40W
I got a reasonably good depth, colour and consistency on this piece despite it being pine. Should I just leave it as it is? Or could you recommend any treatments?
sorry if this is a common question, i tried looking and didnt see anything stickied or any wiki/FAQ. im making a bunch of wedding invitations by engraving metal business card blanks for a friend. i dont really sell things as i just make stuff for fun but this friend wants to make it a marketable service and i have no idea what i would even charge for things like this. i spend a lot of time tweaking the designs and testing engraving results before actually making anything in any real quantity so its less about the cost of materials and more of what is my time worth but im not really sure how to answer that. how do you decide pricing?
I’m starting a small packaging business and planning to engrave kraft paper belly bands (the wrap around boxes with text + QR code).
Material is thin kraft paper (not thick cardboard), and I’m aiming for clean, light engraving so no cutting or deep burns.
I’m deciding between 3W, 5W, and 10W diode lasers (not going CO2), and budget is definitely a factor.
Main concerns:
Avoiding burn marks / charring
Clean text and sharp QR codes
Reasonable speed for small batch production
Overall value for money
I know even low watt lasers can engrave paper, but I’m worried lower power might mean slower speeds → more heat → worse results.
Would 3W or 5W be enough, or is 10W worth the extra cost for cleaner results and efficiency?
Would really appreciate any real-world experience, especially if you’ve worked with kraft paper specifically. Thanks 🙏
I decided to try something a bit different after a few engravings where I was fighting against the prominent rings in this pine wood. So, I changed my approach and played to them instead.
While pine is cheap and accessible, it is actually one of the most frustrating timbers for engraving due to the extreme difference in density between the rings.
I’ve been experimenting with how to integrate the natural texture and properties of the timber, and for this piece, the growth rings felt like they were meant to be part of the sky.
I think the way the horizontal bands undulate adds a nice sense of depth and interest, and I'm really pleased with it.
This was my first time using a laser engraving machine to carve a pattern, and it turned out pretty well. However, I feel the parameters could be optimized. I'd like to ask what laser engraving machines are typically used for and how to set the parameters?
I’ve been asking my boss for at least 2 years if we can get a laser engraver for work to make custom signs for events and around our campuses, make custom personalized items for employees, welcome gifts, etc. I ended up buying my own hobby laser and making things for work so the lightbulb would go off that it is something we can use/need.
Here is what I’m lookin for:
- Best quality for the money. I’ve got $5,000 max: any more it becomes a CapEx project and a harder to push through for approval.
- Machine won’t be used day in and day out, only when something comes up or is needed.
- Materials to be worked with: engrave wood, fabric, cardboard, acrylic, stainless steel and regular steel, anodized aluminum and more. Cut all materials listed above if possible, understand that metals may require different materials to cut and is not a priority for cutting.
- Workspace- something with a large bed to make signs over 24” at least.
- Software- ideally something that can be connected to lightburn since I use it for my hobby laser but willing to learn other softwares if needed.
-I’m only familiar with my 10W diode and not educated in the differences between CO2, Fiber and IR lasers.
- Has to be new. I’ve asked about buying used and it’s harder to get approval.
- Electrical- can be 120vac or 240vac.
Currently found Omtech fits within the parameters listed above but looking for any and all suggestions.
I’ve only got a few days to find something so any points in the right direction would be appreciated!!
Hello Everyone, I am looking to purchase an entry (ish) level fibre laser machine with a decent working area ideally 200×300 (i understand that is quite large and possibly too large for my budget). up to around £1500. Wanting to engrave laptops, golf clubs, waterbottles etc. Thank you in advance for any help. ❤️🔥
Hi! Not sure if this is the right sub, but I am desperate. The fiber laser cable got damaged on a 30W JPT MOPA Laser machine and I urgently need a replacement. I am based in Nairobi Kenya and there are no locally-based shops that have this part. Additionally, I have tried searching alibaba but can't seem to find the specific cable either - Any suggestions?
search keywords: QBH fiber laser cable 20um 30W MOPA 1064nm 5m JPT
Do you take the groves into account when resurfacing the club, or are you just hitting every spot on the club face?
Solid brass divot tool - 2000 / 95% / 60 / 200 @ 150 passes using my 60w OMG mopa fiber laser. 45 min run time. Design made by me.
Hi everyone,
The result looks like a very clean portrait made entirely from dots (halftone style), with:
So I’m trying to figure out the actual workflow.
My questions:
If anyone has experience with this or can point me in the right direction, I’d really appreciate it.
Thanks!
Here is my second try doing a 3D Depth map engraving on a copper ingot. Just for background, I melt copper wire in my furnace and pour the molten copper into ingot molds of various sizes. I then create an image and 3D depth map for the size ingot I want to laser engrave. This is Medusa with a box of copper. (I try to work in an object into the art that shows the Elemental symbol and properties of copper, since these are essentially Elemental Copper ingots, but with art!) After it came off the laser, I tried to clean it up some with steel wool, then I blackened it with a chemical ager, then cleaned it again with steel wool to remove some of the blackener to give it contrast and a shine on the high points. It looks much better in person, my phone's camera really sucks.
I'm still struggling a bit with my settings. I increased the speed to 800mm/s and lowered my power to 90%, but I think I'm still firing a bit too hot or too long and it is still charring the copper a bit which is really hard to clean up after it's done. I am using lightburn software and 3D slice mode with 256 passes and .05 line. I am using a Gweike G2 max 50W fiber laser. Does anyone have any tips for getting better engraving results on copper? I know copper is hard because it is reflective and absorbs a lot of heat. This engraving took my laser over 30 hours with my settings.
We are looking to buy a laser that can do .3mm letter engraving into grade 5 titanium firearm suppressors. Also may use for cerakoting, but that's another question for another day.
Prices seem to be all over the place, there's so many options, what would you recommend as a good entry at that level?
2000 / 90% / 60 / 200 @ 400 passes
60w OMG mopa fiber
I used Xtool F2 portable to make this seat card for wedding. This is done in two ways, first the base layer was engraved to make it beige, then the top layer was engraved. This gave the flowers a highlight.
Once this process was done I used the blue laser to score this image. Scoring by tracing the image actually provides dark black lines. Making multiple pass gives a bit of depth to the edges and makes it pop.
Check it out at atomm https://www.atomm.com/project/114879-luxury-wedding-seat-card-with-ir-color-engraving-xtool-f2-tutorial-etsy-ready-design