I attempted my first passthrough crimp. 1-8 lights are showing green on my tester but the speed seems capped at 100mbps when it should be 1Gbps. Any advice or should I just recrimp? The way the cable is set up is there is already a wall plate jack at one end and the other end that I’m trying to crimp is just free.
I used this cable for my NAS, didn't look too closely at it but has Cat 5e written on it. I was wondering why it was so bloody slow (100Mbps) and saw it only has four wires? Needs 8 to be Cat 5e right? Different Cat 5e cable and I'm getting gigabit speed...
Got this at the thrift store. Was a 500' roll so you can guesstimate how many feet left. CAT5e UTP solid conductors outdoor rated. Gave $10 for it.
I’m trying to crimp a CAT6 cable with Pass through RJ45 connectors. The tool has labels for 6P, 8P, and also mentions CAT.7 / CAT.5/6, plus there’s a screw adjustment on the front.
Right now it’s set like in the picture, but the screw is aligned closer to the CAT.7 marking, which is throwing me off.
Am I using the correct setting for CAT6 RJ45 connectors, or do I need to adjust anything before crimping?
Also saw a video where someone had the same kind of tool set like this and their RJ45 worked fine, but I just wanna be sure.
Don’t want to waste connectors messing this up, so any advice would be appreciated 🙏
I’ve been reading up in the Q&A and online and I’m struggling to grasp the right way to do this so I can use a Coax hookup in my living room (1 floor above and across the house) for gaming.
The first 2 photos are in my basement and have the Verizon modem and splitter for Coax and then have my Google home router attached out of a Ethernet port 1 floor above.
Do I leave the blue Ethernet in the black box and then attach a coax to the black box and the “in” function of the splitter?
Or should I attach it at the Coax point in photo 4 and then to the modem?
Apologies if it’s not super clear
I received a warning from my ISP that one of my android devices attempted to connect to a botnet (Kimwolf) at a specific timestamp (single event).
Since then, I’ve tried to systematically identify the affected device:
Additionally, I captured network traffic for about 1 hour and analyzed which external IPs my devices (192.x.x.x range) were connecting to. I checked those destination IPs on VirusTotal and found no issues.
Complication: I only have a single timestamp from my ISP and no historical traffic logs, so I can’t correlate past activity.
My questions:
Appreciate any guidance on how to narrow this down further.
Hi all,
Reposting something I shared on r/ubiquiti what would you recommend for the housing for a network switch? I need to house it in the basement or just above the basement stairs. I'm leaning to the latter but am concerned about heat.
My plan is to remove the dodgy old cupboard and either commission a bespoke setup or install a rack onto the wall / in its place. The priority is to make sure there is enough air flow while also keeping the new network switch close to where my existing cat6 cables terminate (see the existing switch in pics.)
The likely kit and needs are:
I know this isn't an ideal location which is why I'm moving the cloud gateway elsewhere. In the basement itself might be too humid (65-70%.)
I have 1gb fibre broadband and no need to upgrade that right now, with a small possibility in the future.
#newbie #switch
I have an existing 1 inch conduit running between my house and a detached workshop, about 60 feet. Currently there is nothing in it. I want to run fiber to get reliable 10G between the two buildings now, with the possibility of going to 25G in a few years. I have been reading the debate between single mode and multi mode and I am still confused. I know multi mode is fine for this distance but some people say single mode is more future proof. The cost difference seems small for the cable itself but I am worried about pulling pre terminated fiber through the conduit without damaging the connectors. Should I pull a single mode cable with LC connectors or go with multi mode? Also how many strands should I pull? I only need one link but I know spare strands are good for redundancy. Any tips on pulling fiber without breaking it would also help.
And it's been a while, so I don't know what the hell I'm doing. At our last house, I had a total clusterfuck of stuff, where I'd just add on more crap as I went along, for ten years. So just toss in another switch, another wireless AP, another router, and it's a miracle it worked at all. With the eventual goal of redoing it all, and just never did.
Now I'd like to set everything up correctly. But I am not a networking expert.
My bright idea was to set up a pi-hole server, on an older intel NUC, and try to run everything through that. I also had a TP-link DECO mesh three-AP system that I wanted to use.
I managed to get Ubuntu Server installed on the NUC, despite having never touched linux before, and somehow also managed to figure out how to set a static IP on it during install. Basically just set it to DHCP, ran ip addr, and used that info to set it.
But then I realized I'm an idiot, and the Deco system is the router, and it's not communicating with the pi-hole server. I grabbed an 8 port smart switch, and tried to connect everything together using that.
So, it doesn't really work correctly. I just have the Deco system into the switch, and it's routing. I've been reading, and now I'm wondering if I need a decent new router, if I need pfsense, or just how I need to set everything up.
I believe I need internet -> switch -> pi-hole -> router -> APs/devices/etc. But I am not 100% sure.
My goal is to have the incoming internet (cable internet at this point), have it go to the pi-hole server, and then from there to a switch that has a router and all wireless APs. Not being a networking person, I don't know.
What do I need to do? Can I use the NUC as the pi-hole and router and pfsense and everything? If so how do I physically connect it all.
Apologies for the questions, flame away if I'm sounding like an idiot.
I’m honestly out of ideas at this point – maybe someone here has an idea what’s going on.
I recently upgraded my network to 10G with a UniFi USW Pro XG 8 PoE.
Currently connected to the switch:
- TerraMaster F4 SSD NAS
- My Windows gaming PC (Realtek 5GbE)
- A Proxmox host (connected via 10G SFP+ through a UDM Pro)
On the Proxmox host I’m running a Windows VM with the Red Hat VirtIO drivers installed. Windows correctly shows a 10G connection. I also have an Ubuntu VM running for testing, also with a 10G connection.
Additionally, I have a separate “ripping PC” with a 2.5GbE Realtek NIC.
Problem:
The ripping PC fully saturates its 2.5GbE connection (~300 MB/s constant in both directions).
However, when I copy files from my gaming PC or the Windows VM to/from the NAS, I only get around ~200 MB/s.
Throughput fluctuates between ~150–250 MB/s, with occasional spikes, but never stable.
Interesting behavior:
- Writing from the Windows VM to the NAS reaches ~300 MB/s consistently
- Reading from the NAS stays around ~200 MB/s
So both systems can’t even fully utilize 2.5GbE, despite being capable of more (5G / 10G).
Gaming PC:
- Ryzen 9 9800X3D
- 32 GB DDR5 6000 MHz
- MSI X870 Tomahawk WIFI
I’ve read about potential issues if the additional PCIe power connector on the motherboard is not plugged in – in my case it is connected, and it made no difference.
Proxmox / Windows VM:
- Host: Intel i5-12600H, 32 GB DDR5
- VM: 4 vCPUs, 8 GB RAM
- VirtIO NIC with multiqueue = 4
Ripping PC:
- Ryzen 7 3700X
- 16 GB DDR4
All systems are running the latest network drivers.
Tests & Observations:
- With iperf3, both the gaming PC and the Windows VM can fully utilize the available bandwidth (~5 Gbit/s)
- The Ubuntu VM also reaches full speed (~5G) when copying files via SMB
So the switch, network, and cabling seem fine.
I also tested NFS on the Windows systems:
- Same performance as SMB (~200 MB/s)
- Slightly more stable (fewer drops), but still far from expected speeds
Current conclusion:
- Network throughput is there (iperf confirms it)
- Linux can fully utilize it
- Windows (both bare metal and VM) cannot
- Switching protocols (SMB → NFS) makes no difference
At this point I’m out of ideas and would really appreciate any input 🙏
Short of it: Two days ago my google mesh network upload speeds essentially went to zero. Four pucks, one connected to Spectrum modem. PC hardwired to modem shows fine upload speed.
Until two days ago my google mesh setup was completely worry-free. I have spectrum internet, their modem, and a puck hardwired to the modem. Three additional pucks spread across the house. Now I can’t get enough upload speed to video call, game, etc. No changes to hardware, internet plan, or anything else.
I reset and rebuilt the mesh network using the google home app. Reset modem. Moved a pc to where modem sits and confirmed normal speeds via ethernet cable. No problems streaming HD video via wifi, but uploads remain nearly non-existant.
I’ve been searching online but only find discussions among people with complex setups and special network cases. I just need to resolve my issues without IT professional-level knowledge of networking and hardware.
I appreciate any guidance or insight any of you folks may have.
I have a 100 Mbps Jio Fiber connection. However, my Windows 11 laptop is only getting around 14 Mbps to 26 Mbps download and upload speeds. I am close to the router, and there are only 3-6 devices connected to the network at most, so it's not a congestion issue.
Before this, my laptop was randomly disconnecting from the Wi-Fi entirely, even with full signal strength. I fixed the disconnecting issue, but my speeds are completely tanked.
My Hardware:
Speed Test Results (Ookla):
Troubleshooting Steps I Have Already Tried: I have already gone through standard troubleshooting, so we can rule these out:
ipconfig /release and ipconfig /renew.My Questions:
Any help is greatly appreciated!
Hi everybody,
I'm tired of my HomeLab/Home+Workshop network setup, curently I use in home PfSense router on Topton n5105 with 4x 2.5G, some unmanaged 2.5G+10G SFP switch and some Cudy 16port 1G managed switch, and Cudy WR3000 AP. On the other site i've got some Xiaomi AX3000T router witch OpenWRT and random 8port 1G switch. It's a mess for administration or maintenance and VPN performance and stability is a crap.
I know that 99% of my problem is skill issue and a lack of time spend on this mess but I'm not a networking kind of guy.
I want some simple yet capable network with central management. Network for me is just a tool for making others fun kind of things like servers and 3D printing.
Ubiquity ecosystem is extremely expensive where I live - like about 4x more than Omada so i think the Omada setup can be perfect for me.
I've got two sites:
A - Home
Internet connection:
Fibre, static, public IP
1000Mbps DOWN, 300Mbps UP
This is my main location with NASes, some simple Proxmox lab and other home network misc.
B - Workshop
Internet connection:
Fibre, static, public IP
700Mbps DOWN, 200Mbps UP
My workshop/mancave with 3D printers and bunch of other stuff.
With my basic network knowledge i pick some Omada stack, please help me check if I don't make some rookie mistakes.
Site A - Home:
[ISP]
│
[ER707-M2 (Omada)] ←→ [ER706W (Omada)] (site-to-site VPN)
│
[ES210X-M2 Core Switch]
├── NAS#1 SFP+ 10G
├── NAS#2 SFP+ 10G
├── ES208G #1 Access Switch (MGMT/Proxmox)
├── ES208G #2 Access Switch (Untrusted/KVM)
└── EAP650 AP (WiFi)
Site B - Workshop:
[ISP]
│
[ER706W (Omada)] ←→ [ER707-M2 (Omada)] (site-to-site VPN)
│
[ES210X-M2 Core Switch]
└── ES208G #1 Access Switch
I have a plenty of space for Omada SDN Controller VM, also I need a stable and reliable site-to-site VPN, probably IPsec, which will utilize all of my bandwidth without bottlenecks.
For mobile i think i can pick wireguard.
Do I make some mistakes or the setup is good and I can start to spend my money? :D
Thanks in advance — I’d really appreciate any feedback before I pull the trigger.
Happy Monday! I'm looking for some advice on moving my Omada setup over to a management VLAN.
My goal is to have all infrastructure (switch, APs, controller, etc.) live on VLAN 10 (10.xxx.10.0/24).
Current setup is:
ISP modem → pfSense (on Protecli) → Omada switch → Omada controller (running on Proxmox) → Omada APs
What I did was preconfigure everything behind the ISP router first so I could do a warm swap. The controller already has a static IP on VLAN 10, and all VLANs are configured in pfSense.
The problem comes when I swap out the ISP router and bring pfSense online — the Omada switch shows as disconnected in the controller. From what I can tell, the switch is still sitting on the default untagged LAN (10.xxx.0.0/24), so it can’t reach the controller on VLAN 10 anymore.
What’s the cleanest way to move the switch over to VLAN 10?
For reference, here’s my VLAN layout:
Appreciate any help!
Well, my town recently added fiber optic internet. I was using coaxial cable and getting 80-120 Mbps download and 10-15 Mbps upload speeds.
When I switched to fiber optic, I started getting the results shown in the images, and I think it might be the fiber optic cable; it might be damaged.
Soon to be moving in with my girlfriend, and am looking to set up a basic home network. I am relatively tech savvy, but my network building knowledge is limited (which is half the fun, I'm hoping to learn!). I've trawled these forums and various other places, and advice... varies, to say the least. Anyway, I think I've got a basic framework but I'm looking for help.
Details:
2 possible setups I've been looking at:
STACK 1: Full Ubiquiti ecosystem:
Questions: is this the right Ubiquiti gear? They have many product names and it is difficult to parse. 16 port switch might be overkill, but I think was thinking of tinkering with VLAN since I'll be doing some security stuff. Only PoE stuff would be the security stuff, I believe. Is this overkill? This is $1000+ and would love to be sure it's worthwhile/well-selected before dropping that.
STACK 2: Reolink Security + random stuff
Questions: I don't really know what I'm doing here. There are infinite router/switch/AP choices and the mikrotik ones seem nice and reasonably priced? I would potentially look into running switches at the end of some cable runs with this setup, ie two separate switch locations most likely? This is cheaper by ~300 bucks, is the cost savings worth it? Are there other options worth exploring?
Thanks for your help!
I was In the middle of a game of Deadlock when power went out briefly after getting my computer back on I noticed that our apartments WiFi was gone from the list despite always being at the top of options on my computer and despite still having multiple connections show up, And still working on every other device In the apartment Including my Girlfriend's computer.
I tried uninstalling and Reinstalling my motherboards WiFi drivers, using a vpn, resetting network, forgetting the network, and the whole IP config thing In CMD, has been restarted plenty of times and been now 4 days since It disappeared and Is still not showing up.
Usually I would Google this but I feel like I tried everything I can think of and I don't see anything new when googling this does anyone have any ideas? thanks very much sorry In advance
I need something that will work to extend WiFi about 150’, straight line with no obstructions outside the house (3 interior stud walls) for 1 security camera and 1 automatic chicken coop door. I do have a shed with power nearby, but trenching is not an option right now. Next year I will be trenching to extend plumbing and electricity, but now it’s not an option.
Given I only need these two items to connect, what are my options? Is a WiFi extender worth it nowadays if I dedicate it to only these two uses? Should I run a cat 6 from my router, through my crawl space, and to an outdoor access point like the TP Link EAP225?
I’m running an Asus mesh network with 2gb parallel fiber connection. I have roughly 70 devices on the network with several of those being home WiFi security cameras. I’ve noticed when I load up my security cameras live views that other smart devices on the network will “drop” their connections (smart switches/plugs begin flashing) once I close the live feed out those devices will seamlessly reconnect to their mesh nodes.
What would cause this? Are my cameras pulling my network away from other devices? If so what would be the proper fix?
Hi all,
I am struggling with poor WiFi connection at my place. The setup is as follows:
Fiber goes to an ONT device that also acts as WiFi router in ROOM 1. In ROOM 2 I have a mini PC and a TV box that I would like to stream HD movies to it via the WiFi. I get somewhat ok reception at the TV box, but a very poor signal at the PC.
I can't easily if at all replace the ONT device, since it is internet provider specific. I also cannot move it very much. Currently I am thinking of the easiest and most plug and play solution here that will cost bellow 100 euro.
I will be grateful for suggestion since I'm not very familiar with networking.
