Hey everyone,
I’m installing laminate flooring myself and wanted to get some opinions on my work so far.
I tried to stagger the planks in a completely random order, but now I’m second-guessing if it’s done correctly.
Does this look okay to you, or does it seem off?
Any tips or things I should improve before continuing?
Appreciate any feedback 🙏
I recently sent out a flooring quote and the customer came back saying my price is almost double another contractor’s. They actually broke everything down, which I appreciated.
Here’s the situation:
Baseboards:
Labor comparison:
Demo comparison:
From my perspective, my numbers are pretty in line with doing the job properly (prep, disposal, time, etc.), and not running into issues during or after install.
I told the customer I can be a bit flexible, but I won’t be able to get anywhere near those numbers.
My question:
Not trying to knock the other competitor, just trying to sanity check myself here.
I'm having my flooring replaced (laminate). I just checked on the home and am very confused whether this is how it is supposed to look or if it's just because it's not finished. I wanted to ask before bringing it up to the "project manager"
We have hardwood floors in our kitchen and cheap LVP in the rest of the upstairs. I'd like to replace all flooring for cohesion. How would you handle?
So I am at a loss for words, I went to clean up our litter box room and under a pee pad we lay out for the senior cats if they miss, my floor decided to do this! How on earth do I go about fixing it? We just moved into this property in October. It's on a hill, we need to put a French drain in the backyard to combat the swamp it turns into when it rains, but my first thought is the crawl space is acquiring excess moisture and making this happen. The house was built in the 70s and remodeled heavily in 2024, but judging by the other issues we've ran across, the people who actually put in the work were not licensed. Any & all suggestions on what I can do to fix it/stop other boards from doing this would be greatly appreciated.
Purchased a home that has a bonus room attached to the garage I would like to use for a gym/office. I would like to replace the existing carpet and refinish the room but I’m not sure how to approach a couple things:
The drywall is ~1.5” in and ~7” up on top of the footing, currently it has carpet covering this but I’d like to know the correct way to hide this or at least make it look decent?
The concrete floor has a “dip” along the perimeter where it sits about 1/3” below the level part of the floor. Is there an easy fix for this?
Thanks!
My brain is basically gone trying to figure out how to tackle this closet with lifeproof flooring. Not sure how to angle the pieces in while still being under the jamb? I have a solid 3in shaved off the bottom, but still can’t get it.
Bought my house a few years ago and the previous owner (landlord) did a lot of questionable DIY to save money and screw the previous tenants. For some reason, he lined up every seam in the laminate flooring through the entire living room and hall.
I can't stand it but don't have the budget to tear it up and install new flooring correctly. Is there any way I can cut and reinstall the existing flooring and get the same coverage?
Torn between thinking it's fine and not. Also feels easier to dislike it when no furniture is there.
How can I figure out why my carpet has ripples all the way across? I noticed it like this a couple of weeks after installation. The carpet in the adjoining room doesn't have this issue. It was a team of three fitters that did the whole house at the same time.
I’m thinking about getting this for my laminate floors. From the research I did it seems perfectly fine but what do you guys think?
We had a contractor install LVP flooring and the results had me a bit worried so I investigated a bit more and learned it was not installed to the manufacturer spec . Manufacturer calls for 8” separations between joints . Was wondering if anybody’s been in a similar position and how to go about this ?
Update : They’ve agreed to redo everything thankyou everybody for the comments
We have an old house that has 5/16 stained re oak wood floors and tile in the kitchen, We took up the tile and will put down new red oak and plan to stain it to best match. Where do I go to color match the stain? Is this even a thing like paint?
I am thinking on purchasing some laminate flooring because we are adding a dog to the household. I live in Canada, can you advise me what some good brands are as well as the specifications I should look out for. Thank you
For this house floor plan, what is the correct direction to lay the planks (LVP)?
We tore up our kitchen floors which was comprised of: 1st layer linoleum, 2nd layer linoleum (20% chrystoline), 1/4” plywood stapled to tiles(asbestos 2% chrystoline) . I was able to take the plywood linoleum layers out intact by cutting the linoleum seams which would keep the asbestos linoleum contained and I cut it wet to avoid asbestos. We had to pull hundreds of staples in order to get the tiles up.
We had the tiles tested beforehand and they came NEGATIVE for asbestos, but we didn’t know if the mastic contained asbestos so we plastic’ed off everything, created negative pressure in the room , wore respirators and tyvek suits, and pulled the tiles wet in case the mastic had asbestos. Luckily we took these precautions because I thought it was weird the tiles came back negative for asbestos, so we still treated them like they were asbestos since we thought the mastic could have it.
I sent in a tile sample with mastic and it came back POSITIVE for asbestos tiles, 2% chrystoline, but negative for asbestos for the Mastic. I’m beyond pissed that slabinc.com gave us an incorrect asbestos result on the original tile sample. Kind of freaking out. I have a double layer of plastic and tarp down on the floor now wondering what to do next.
Ideally I wanted to strip it down to the original wood floors.
Do I:
Try to remove the black mastic using a steamer since it supposedly doesn’t have asbestos? I’ll have to have another company test the I can’t use a Diamabrush since there were asbestos tiles on it.
Lay down 1/4” plywood and install LVP that looks like ceramic tile. Do I use shims to level the plywood in preparation for the LVP? Any other options?
Any input or suggestions would be greatly appreciated
I’m installing Pergo Elements Transom in a bedroom and it’s my first time installing flooring. For the most part, everything has gone well.
Now that I’m almost at the end, the closet opening doesn’t look so easy compared to the other side since I and angling the boards now to lock them in. Advice on what to do here… how to get the boards laid in there? I’m sure it’s pretty basic to seasoned installers.
Many thanks in advance.
New addition built onto house. Added 1/4" underlay in new area and feathered transition with feather finish. Seems like new area is too high now. 4 foot level "teetering" besides a transition strip here, what are the options?
My contractor sanded my floor and finished off a first time at 100 and it was very bad. I needed to bring 3 other flooring people who said my contractor needed to redo everything and finish off at at least 150.
My contractor finished at 120 and asks me if he really needs to do 150. What do you think?
I'm fairly certain I may get roasted for this, but hear me out. I've done some research on this and the consensus I've gathered was that it was a mixed bag between yes you can, you can but shouldn't and absolutely no you can't.
We have a house we are getting ready to put up for sale. It has existing Pergo Laminate everywhere, except for 2 bathrooms and the laundry/pantry which are dated looking ceramic tiles circa 2005.
We'd like to install new LVP everywhere, and we're considering going right over the existing laminate and tile. All of the existing flooring is in good structural condition, it's just ugly and dates the house.
The reasoning behind wanting to go over the existing laminate are to avoid having to remove the tiled floors and whatever underlayment may have been installed underneath them, and the height difference that will be present if we were to remove the laminate, but not the tile. Right now, the tile and laminate are the same height. Otherwise, we'd have to install about 1400 SQ. Ft. of underlayment to match the tile height. Hope that made sense.