Hey guys, I’m not great at carb tuning. Right off the bat the bike runs great then full throttle it bigs and spits like this. Is this Rich or lean bog? Do I need to go up or down my main jet?
I dont know where its coming from. It was not there pre carb clean. It is only present at around 2000rpms, and gets worse the warmer the bike gets. When the click sound comes, it is followed by a decrease in rpms also
Any ideas?
Can anybody tell me if it sounds normal. I am kinda new to motorcycles. Had this one for 2 years. Im not sure if it always sounded like that and i just noticed it now or its new. Im just not sure if it sounds healthy.
If it means anything i recently got my carbs out for cleaning and haven't synced them yet.
Hi, can anyone help me put back this spring to fix the self propelled mechanism on my mower. I cannot seem to find the end point of it. Thanks
Hi everyone,
I’m struggling with the setup of my 1994 SC28 Streetfighter build and could use some advice. I’ve made the following changes:
- Suspension: Hyperpro progressive springs in OEM forks; Hyperpro spring on the OEM rear shock.
- Wheel: Swapped the stock 16" for a 17" front wheel.
- Current Settings: Forks dropped 6mm through the triples. Rear preload on notch 2. Front preload at 5 rings showing.
The Problem:
I have almost zero sag. I’m measuring only 4mm rear sag and 5mm front sag. The bike feels way too topped out.
The Question:
Is my geometry/suspension balance completely ruined by the combination of the 17" wheel and the stiffer Hyperpro springs? How do I get my sag back into the 25-30mm range without making the bike unrideable?
Any insights on spacer lengths or specific SC28 settings for this setup would be much appreciated. Thanks!
Videos: https://imgur.com/a/eAmQFeZ
Backstory: original aluminum(!) 7mm diameter clutch pushrod for the bike wore out and bent, causing a slow oil leak whenever the clutch lever was pulled in, I figure the the bent pushrod was stretching out the pushrod seal. OEM pushrods are rare and expensive and I wanted to avoid this issue in the future. I found suitable 7mm diameter steel rod and cut/ground it down to be identical to the OEM rod in its length and slightly rounded end shape.
Replaced the pushrod with this new one, replaced the pushrod seal with a new OEM seal while I was at it. Test idling w/ clutch being worked, as well as a test ride were completely successful, no more oil leak whatsoever. Sweet. Went for a couple local rides with no issues or leaks whatsoever.
Did final spring maintenance today including oil change with the usual conventional moto 10w40 and all cables lubed and adjusted per factory manual. Test idled bike again after everything was done, idled sweetly with no oil leaks, including when clutch is worked. Ready to go for the year.
Shut bike off, gear up, mount up to go run errands, and without touching anything else it's suddenly absolutely PISSING oil from the clutch pushrod/seal. Holding the clutch in might be making it leak slightly faster, but either way it's a horrifying constant stream from the pushrod seal so that doesn't really matter. I checked behind the side cover and the new pushrod and the new seal are both still in perfect shape. The clutch cable and mechanism are still in place, functioning perfectly fine and smoothly.
The only possible cause I found was this brass bushing/washer for the pushrod that sits right behind the seal. The pushrod seems to fit kinda loosely in it, it's possible to wiggle the pushrod around inside it. (imgur link, vid 1) Maybe this has worn out and isn't holding the pushrod tightly anymore, so the pushrod is shifting and stretching out the center of the seal when the side cover is installed? The pushrod seems to be held pretty damn firmly in place by the seal alone once I install the seal, though. (imgur link, vid 2)
If the brass bushing's meant to be a tighter fit around the pushrod, maybe it's worn out and needs to be replaced by a steel one to hold the steel pushrod tight so it doesn't move around and stretch the seal? I can't see any way of doing this without it being a year long and engine out affair, though.
Thanks in advance. I'm at my wits end with this little bike's achilles heel. It's otherwise bulletproof; I've done every bit of maintenance on this thing and would be confident riding it across the country tomorrow, if I knew this one seal wouldn't bleed it to death within a few miles.
Recently I had a bike I bought over the fall and stored for the winter, brought it back out and when putting it in gear and giving it gas it did not move. Put it on the stand, tightened the cable, fixed the issue but caused a new one. I believe I only tighten it at the top because it’s still very loose at the bottom where the gear box is. Now it starts, drives in gear but when I let the clutch out no matter the speed it’s at the bike does and rear tire attempts to lock up, why is this?
The bike was running prior to being stored in the winter. I am at wits ends trying to figure out what is causing it to not run now. Since attempting to get it running, I have already replaced the battery, spark plugs and boots, ignition coil, and condenser. I have tested the plugs and boots and I am getting a spark out of both just using the starter motor.
As a sanity check, I've already removed the carburetor and attempted to spray starter fluid directly through the boot but I haven't received so much as a sputter. I know I'm getting compression but I haven't used a tester for an exact number. Should that be what I'm going around testing next? I can provide any pictures or videos if needed.
Thank you for your help.
I am looking for a fuel tank prop rod for my 2012 Street Triple.
I am unable to locate any part number and can't locate it on any diagram on Triumph website, but I know it exists somewhere. It seems like I'm going insane and even the dealership was not able to locate the part.
I was able to find a link to BikesandBandit that seemed to sell it, but they are no longer in business.
This is from an old reddit post:
"http://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/2012-triumph-street-triple/o/m154263#sch740215
It's part of the bodywork seat. 2634573"
Hi all! I'm looking to install a heel-toe shifter on my bike. I'm a tad short for my bike, so I currently have a pair of platform boots that I ride in. They work fantastically in every aspect aside from shifting which is described "clunky" at best. Currently I am having trouble finding parts that would work and how to install them. Any help would be appreciated! TYIA
Okay, I bought a 2018 ninja 400 abs for 200 bucks. The original owner attempted a valve adjustment and timed it wrong bending valves. Didn't want to mess with it, needed it gone. Considering it has a yoshi alpha full exhaust on it, I couldn't pass it up. I bought a new head, head gasket, head bolts, I got a repair manual from Kawasaki. Had my work verified by master tech as far as timing. Replaced plugs as well. Went to try to fire her up, cranks, won't fire up. I've verified I have fuel from the pump, to the rail, the injectors aren't clogged, everything is plugged in other than the headlight assembly, I also replaced the battery as well( oem has a bad cell). The bike was delivered on it's side so I also made sure the tip over sensor was properly oriented and reset. I work at a car shop. I was told I'm not getting injector pulse. Bike has 15 k on it. We don't have access to motorcycle obd scanner. From what I gather injectors pulse goes off crank sensor. The stator was within spec. ,(from what I'm told). I have a replacement just in case. Anyone out there have any pointers?
Hello folks,
Trying to get familiar with my street triple, and i noticed a light wet spot on the stator cover one day but paid no mind to it cause it wasn’t dripping at the time. Then one day i rode into work (112 miles round trip) and my left shoe had oil on it along with other spots on the bike. It doesn’t drip when i park it overnight, but only when I ride…
Im thinking it’s the stator cover gasket… any input from you guys?? Thanks in advance.
Hey guys, this is my MT 15 and for months now the bike suddenly shuts down while riding on the road once the speed comes down or the rpm comes down. It's not an always thing, it happens randomly and when it starts it keeps shutting down whenever I slow down also when I try to start it again it takes 10-15 selfish to start. Now after 2 days I have started and u can see how the bike can't maintain its neutral rpm. I have taken it to the yamaha blue square service centre and every time they say that the rpm is not set properly and they say they have fixed it but after getting the bike home, within 1 or 2 days the the problem keeps recurring again and again. Pls help if anyone knows what could be the issue here.
Hello! I have a kawasaki ninja 300, from 2014 and it started to make this weird sound. Only after the bike is warmed up it is starting to appear and disappear over 3000 rpm.
Dose anyone knows from what that sound it could be? Thank you!
While I was riding I heard a loud click and the engine bogged down to a stop thought it was a fuel issue but as I was riding into my driveway it died again and I held the clutch down to coast I a shhhhhhh noise from the engine. What do yall think? Cooked clutch? I am a beginner rider so Ive definitely burned it a bit. Thanks