Ambrane's reputation took a serious hit after a Gyan therapy's video their power bank/charger combo that literally exploded under normal use also damaging more things around it . Like many others, I avoided Ambrane products after that, but out of curiosity, I went ahead and purchased their 25/30W GaN charger specifically to test its safety and design. To my surprise, it is actually quite well-made. Here is an overview of my findings:

Pros -

1. Transformer - The transformer secondary (safe DC voltage part) is triple insulated many cheap ones only the thin lacquer (enamel) on the wire itself for separation which has a high chance of coming in contact with the primary (high voltage AC counterpart) this transformer uses triple-insulated wiring for the secondary side. This provides a robust physical barrier between the high-voltage AC and the safe DC output (img2)
2. Synchronous Rectification - Instead of a schottky diode a proper synchronous rectifier is used for output rectification which basically uses a MOSFET with a control circuitry to the simulate a diode (ideal) nearly eliminating the voltage drop of a normal silicon diode (img3)
3. Creepage - Because it is very small and compact the thing i was also worried of AC-DC separation it was hard to do that ,but they have handled it pretty well by using a plastic part and a slot between it so the creepage distance might be small but it is well separated (img4) (img5)
4. EMI suppression - Most fly-back SMPS have a capacitor between the primary and secondary to provide a return path for high frequency common mode noise generated due to switching now since it is between primary and secondary it is safety critical so a specialized one should be used many cheap ones use a normal one to save on cost but this one uses a proper class Y1 (img6)
5. Power ratings - it does what it claims. refer to the image for more info (img7)

Cons -

The main drawback is the lack of primary-side EMI suppression. To save on cost and space (though the footprint would only have increased by ~15%), they omitted: (img8)

1. MOV (Metal Oxide Varistor): Essential for surge protection.
2. Class-X1 Capacitors & Common Mode Choke: These filter out high-frequency noise.

Why this matters: Without these, you might notice flickering on sensitive electronics (like monitors or TVs) or touch-ghosting on your phone if they are plugged into the same circuit as this charger.

Technical Observations

1. Fuse - instead of a glass fuse a box type slow blow fuse is used which is more reliable and has better manufacturing tolerances (img9)
2. Main IC - it is a OB2733V which according to it's datasheet is a PWM controller with a integrated 650v GaN MOSFET the datasheet does not mention the continuous drain current (Id) of the mosfet for some reason but it it mentions the wattage as - 25w meaning Ambrane is pushing it slightly at the 30W peak. It was also covered with some thermal clay for better heat dissipation (img10)
3. Construction- The Usb c port it is mounted on a separate board along with the communication IC which is not a good or a bad thing just a design decision (img11 & img12)

Final Verdict: 7/10

Surprisingly, it is a well engineered product even tough it lacks EMI filtering , the core safety features (insulation, Y-caps, and creepage) are all present and accounted for and the BIS certification appears valid

It is safe to use✅

Note: This is a completely different design from their failed power bank combo, and this teardown/analysis does not mean all other Ambrane products are either safe or unsafe. This analysis only applies to this specific 30W model

Hello everyone! About 2 months ago on a whim I ordered 6x of these IV-11 VFD tubes from eBay, and decided I wanted to design and build my very own VFD tube clock! After getting good tips and feedback on reddit, prototyping everything on a breadboard, designing a custom PCB, and soldering it all together, here's the finished result! This is my first real personal project as a new EE major and I'm thrilled with how it turned out.

The clock runs on an Arduino Nano Every with 6x daisy-chained 74HC595 shift registers and UDN2981A high-voltage source drivers, one pair per tube. The anode and grid rails run at 25V from a boost converter, and the filament runs at 1.5V from a buck converter, all from a single 5V USB supply.

A full writeup covering design decisions, schematic, and PCB layout is on my GitHub Repo. Stars are appreciated! :)

im looking for a portable fan with good air flow and quality to last for the summer days with no power. seems this brand has max air flow rate. is it the right choice or any other option to look?

TLDR: Need help to fix or replace a rusted solenoid valve.

Hi all,

I own a Voltas Beko DT8S dishwasher and recently the detergent compartment lid got stuck open.

I've disassembled the mechanism and found the culprit to be this rusted solenoid valve, but I'm unable to find any replacements for this online.

I've tried reaching out to voltas beko customer care for a replacement of the entire mechanism, but the numbers seem dead and redirect to a WhatsApp number which gives no response.

My only hope at this point seems to be repair this existing solenoid valve which looks impossible given its construction, or replace it.

Could the community please help search for a replacement solenoid valve, or help me figure out a way to disassemble this?

I had low voltage in my area yesterday night and weirdly the ceiling spot light i installed started flickering and dimming. The switch was turned off the whole time. It behaved like this until the voltage fluctuation was rectified. Does anyone know what caused this?

P.S. I have installed two lights in the bedroom and both behaved the same, but the light works fine now. I don’t think there’s a faulty LED or driver.

Used a mosquito racket circuit to get the high voltage for the geiger tube. Need to work on the CPM part as the reading fluctuates a lot.

This is a receiver from a hearing aid. There is minor damage to the wire at one spot. Is there any interesting project I can attempt with this?

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Iam not being kanjoos. Just considering environmental impact. I bought this boats headphones 10 months back and cushion is torn. Can I replace the cushion or no other option than buying new one?

The configuration of this particular pd trigger module is not documented properly or is vague , so I thought it would be useful for us all

This module works pretty well handles the current without heating and most importantly does trigger every voltage for a pd charger given that you are using a compatible pd adapter (pd 2.0 or 3.0)

It also supports fallback i.e suppose you set it to 20v but your charger support 15v max so it will automatically drop to 15v which is pretty useful for battery charging related projects , a lot of other available in market can't do this they will just fallback to 5v or keep the charger/power bank shutting on/off (hiccup mode)

Ic used is CH224K - https://www.laskakit.cz/user/related_files/ch224ds1.pdf

purchase link (non-affiliate) - https://www.amazon.in/Efillooc-Trigger-Charging-Adjustable-Voltage/dp/B0F26BYL87 can be found for cheaper in offline market