r/ChevyTahoe

This used to happen often with my Wrangler, but after a few years in an Audi, it's fun to see again 🤣 Going on six months now and I'm a huge fan.

01 Chevy Tahoe

5.3L V8

4L60E transmission I believe

~298,200 miles

Started having poor acceleration for about a week (E.G. I’m at a red light I hit the gas and I hear my engine working way harder than it ever has up to about 10 mph then everything would be fine) headed to work 2 days ago and I change lanes and the engine is absolutely screaming at 30 MPH turn around and go home and I’m getting barely 20-25 MPH and it feels like I’m forcing the truck up a 90 degree incline. I check my trans fluid it’s a bit low and has lost all its red color since last checked (could also be a bit low in my opinion) call my mechanic and he says it sounds like the trans is done but asked a few questions I couldn’t verify. I stated it did shift PRND fine, it reversed fine, he asked about low 3, 2, and 1 which I hadn’t tried. It operates fine in low gears as they don’t go over 30 I guess, however when trying low gears I put it in drive a few times and did laps around the neighborhood and found that it actually will go over 30 it’s just a hard shift and then back to normal driving for the most part, still feels good and strong and ready to drive otherwise. I have drive by cable so no electronic pedal/throttle control and was about to change the TPS/ throttle body but my OBD scanner says all systems and readings are ok. I did notice some sludge on the engine and don’t know what it is or where it’s coming from around the base of the oil fill tube. I said all this to say before I go tomorrow and potentially waste $300 on a trans fluid change does this sound like a fried trans? Forgot to get pics of the trans fluid but does this throttle body look clean? And any insight on this sludge!

Does anyone have advice on 2018 Tahoe anti-theft/ key fob issue?

2018 Tahoe Premier 5.3L engine is think. RWD

I bought a 2018 used from dealership in 2024. Push button start.. It only has 1 key fob. I think I remember rhe salesperson saying it wasnt the original? The DIC has always given me the message "service key fob" regardless of whether my fob had a brand new battery or not. I usually just hit dismiss on the steering wheel and ignore it. But it always worked

(I did buy a new key fob to reprogram on Amazon and went thru the whole process but it didnt work. I think I had the wrong part bc it looked different)

Fast forward to yesterday I was shopping, went to get in passenger side door, it was locked. Went around to driver door, it was unlocked but Tahoe wouldnt start.

Thought it was a dead battery, got a jump. Just clicked like crazy. Kept trying to start it.

Then DIC said open and close driver window, open and close passenger windows.

Then it randomly started. I drove it home, started and shut it off a few times trying to clear DIC.

Took off the negative battery cable, to try to clear DIC it started and I drove it to town but then it wouldnt start again.

Took off the negative cable, put it back on.

Got a new key fob battery.

Tried a cycle of turning ignition start button accessory power on for 3 cycles of 15 minutes.

Tried to reprogram the key fob using a YouTube video. (Physical key counterclockwise driver side door 5 times)

Gave me a message "key relearn or reprogram pending" but then the Tahoe just shut off, it never started the process.

I tried to take the positive battery cable off, it triggered the alarm. 😅 I turned off the alarm with the key fob.

I did try to find fuse 29, but I wasnt confidant which one it was. The fuses under the hood didnt seem to match the diagram on the box?

I contacted a mobile mechanic who stopped by but I had pretty much already started the vehicle by unattached and reattaching the negative battery cable again.

He says he can reprogram the key and clear the computer once he orders the key fob with the right frequency or hz but I'm not convinced I just cant put my finger on why...maybe bc he wasnt able to clear the code already with my one working key fob.

Anyway its giving me a new message.

Love the look of these older Tahoe's.

It is not obvious in the video, but after 1 hour of driving, the light is flickering, interior and exterior.

I recently got my first chevy, a 2009 suburban 1500 ltz (180k miles). Has the 6.0 and 4x4, and a verified new engine 45k miles ago do to the AFM failing.

For everyone wondering, the VIN has a Y in the 8th digit for the L76 engine. Its an aluminum 6.0 with VVT and AFM. Similar to the ones found in the pontiac g8 gt. 366hp/384lbs of torque in the trucks.

Can anyone share their experience/build with doing the dod delete on a similar setup? I'm just going to freshen everything up accordingly and do a mild stage 1 truck cam swap. I plan to retain the VVT and keep it as a stock+ setup. I think 400hp/tq is all I care to bump this thing up to, unless the 6 speed in it can hold more in stock form. Is a stock profile cam going to be better than a stage one? I just want usable power for everyday use.

Have had this Tahoe for about nine months, bought brand new. Rear view camera shows a ton of glare now from lights and headlights at night. It wasn't like this when we got it but I can't figure out when this started. My 2021 Silverado LTZ with the rear view camera doesn't have this problem at all and ai get zero glare. Anyone encounter this and know of a fix?

And yes, I've tried cleaning it.