r/BIGTREETECH

I've had this unit for 3 months now, it has yet to provide a decent result

Finding stretched nearly torn belts on the filament feed shaft, stripped grub screws on the filament gears and pinched wired in the case feeding the chamber heater. This unit is not worth your money. Inconsistent spool winding sometimes it works sometimes you end up with a ton of filament inside the machine not nearly spooled back on the roll.

Latest failure, to feed. The idlers tight the cam rotated the filament is snug in the tube but it does not feed.

This is the worst product btt has released it needed more time to figure out how to actually work.

Initial setup was impossible had to switch to happy hare as the btt automatic installer wouldn't complete with no clue as to why.

Just letting everyone know, as im really fed up with BTT customer support. They WILL NOT HONOR THE WARRANTY. I have a Manta E3EZ board that had suddenly stopped working (I personally think it is the UART multiplexer chip).

I first contacted them in January, and now they are telling me I'm out of warranty, just because they think I'm an idiot and its a config problem or something. It's not. I've bought a second board, and everything works on it. All the wiring and configs is the same. DO NOT BUY BTT! I can paste the whole email chain here if ppl want to see it.

I recently bought six TMC 2209s from big tree tech thinking they would be able to run at 2A RMS (with cooling). The official BTT docs that they can.
I want to control my large two amp Nema 17’s with them for a robot arm, so I really need all the current.

After installing them and setting the maximum possible current of 2 A with UART, I realized that the fact that the Rsense is 110mOhm means they can only do 1.7 A maximum.

Am I tripping? How can BTT do false ad advertising?!
Would it be easy for me to swap the rsense myself to get 2amps?

Hey people

I need huge help with your knowledge so please help.

Im in a process of making custom made Voron 2.4 from old printers like Ender 3 V2 (4 pcs), Ender 5 Pro (2 pcs) and Sermoon D1.

Im planing to use some of the profiles from those printers and motors allso but now we get to the financial problem.

What kind of board is enough for that kind of Voron 2.4??? Im looking to get BIGTREETECH Manta M8P Control Board running Klipper with CB1 (92euro) or CB2 (170euro).

Anything else that you think im gonna need for this build from BTT please type in your answer.

Since my salery is 1200 this is a loot of money for me.

Thank you all.

P.S. Allso any advice in building proces is welcome.

In January 2026, I ordered a Voron 2.4 LDO Motor Kit, an E3D Revo Hotend, and an EBB SB2209. Because Turkish customs laws were changing strictly on February 6, I asked them to split the order. To their credit, they did try. They split it into two packages and attempted to ship them multiple times (even facing weight limit rejections from the carrier). Unfortunately, due to these delays and the new customs rules, the packages failed to enter the country and were officially returned to China. I don't blame them entirely for the customs failure; international shipping is messy.

The Real Problem: The Refund Hostage Situation Here is where the customer service completely failed. The packages were successfully returned to their Dongguan warehouse. According to official Yanwen and China Post tracking logs, BIQU signed for and received the Motor Kit on March 15, and the Hotend/EBB on March 20.

Instead of refunding my money for the items they now physically had back in their warehouse, they ghosted me.

• For almost 50 days, I sent them dozens of emails.
• I provided the official tracking screenshots showing their own signature on the delivery.
• They responded with generic automated messages or claimed they didn't recognize the tracking numbers (the very numbers they provided to me earlier).

Title: PT1000 + MAX31865 reading too low → heater overshooting (Octopus Pro v1.1)

Hi all, I’m troubleshooting a serious temp issue on my 3D printer and could use some help.

Setup

• Board: BTT Octopus Pro v1.1
• Sensor: PT1000 (3-wire)
• Interface: MAX31865 module
• Marlin firmware (configured for PT1000 + MAX31865)

Problem

• Display shows ~210–220°C
• But filament is clearly burning (actual temp seems way higher, ~300°C+)
• Eventually throws: “Heater failed system stopped heater E0”

What I tested

• Measured sensor at room temp → ~1000Ω (seems correct for PT1000)
• Boiling water test → only reads ~70°C (should be ~100°C)
• So it’s consistently reading too low

Current config

MAX31865_SENSOR_OHMS_0 1000
MAX31865_CALIBRATION_OHMS_0 4300

• Using 3-wire PT1000
• Firmware side looks correct (as far as I can tell)

My suspicion

• MAX31865 wiring or jumper configuration (2-wire vs 3-wire)
• Possibly wrong Rref on the module?
• Or incorrect 3-wire connection (same-color leads?)

Question

• What would cause a PT1000 + MAX31865 to read ~30% lower across the range?
• Could incorrect 3-wire jumper config alone cause this?
• Any quick way to verify correct wiring/config without damaging hardware?

Right now I’ve disconnected the heater for safety.

Any help would be really appreciated 🙏

Doing a skr mini swap on my ender 3 v2. I hear it’s an amazing swap overall. I’m already running klipper. but I need to figure out the jst connector for my fan. Two day shipping isn’t the end of the world but do you guys have any ideas of where I might be able to salvage one? I have quite a few old laptops and other electronics laying around and can splice wires like a champ. thanks!

I’m using an Octopus Pro v1.1 with a 3-wire PT100 and the onboard MAX31865. I changed the 0Ω resistor position for 3-wire mode according to the BTT manual and also changed the Marlin settings to TEMP_SENSOR_0 -5, MAX31865_SENSOR_OHMS_0 100, MAX31865_CALIBRATION_OHMS_0 430, and MAX31865_SENSOR_WIRES_0 3. The sensor reads temperature and the printer boots normally now, but the temperature reading seems very inaccurate. For example, when I set the hotend to 280°C, the display only shows around 250°C while the actual temperature appears to be well over 300°C based on filament burning behavior and external measurement. The PT100 measures about 109Ω at room temperature, so I think the sensor itself is probably okay. It’s a 3-wire PT100 with two red wires and one black wire. Measuring between the two red wires gives nearly 0Ω, and each red-to-black combination gives around 109Ω. I’m trying to figure out whether this is more likely caused by incorrect 3-wire wiring order, bad 0Ω resistor soldering, poor sensor contact with the heater block, or a damaged PT100/MAX31865 circuit. Has anyone seen similar behavior with the Octopus Pro onboard MAX31865?

Like the title says: does the panda touch still work with the lastest printer firmwares?

I have a P1S and an A1 Mini, i like how i can change filaments directly on the A1 mini display but i cant do that on my P1S.

Also, i keep my printers in a separate room, so i would keep panda touch in the pc room where i work, and make it double as a monitoring display for both printers.

So the question is: is Panda Touch still a thing? Or it's better to not buy it and stick with Bambu Studio multi-device page? Or there is a better solution i could try?

I am converting my Ender 3 to a CoreXY setup with a EnderXY kit with Triple Z.

I intend to switch from Marlin to KIipper and am reviewing my options for a control board.

I think I want either a Octopus Pro with separate Pi, or a Manta M8P with an onboard pi module (CB1 or2?).

Does anyone have any opinion or advice on this?

Do I still need a MOsfet should I use the original or buy a new one also?

Hi guys,

sorry to bother you. After some months, I decided to install a filament sensor.

With the help of ChatGPT I modified the marlin code but unfortunately the SFS not detect the filament when finish the print.

Can someone help me to find a solution because my brain starts to finish the ideas.

Data and upgrades:

Ender 3 V2 Max Neo (300x300x340)

SKR E3 V3 with TFT35 Display using touch mode

Direct drive Microswiss NG extruder.

Thanks if someone can help me.

Marlin code in the comments

hello，everyone.I'm the PM of the MANTA M8P board. Recently, I have summarized the issues that have arisen with this board, such as problems with the MOSFET heat dissipation on the PCB, issues with signal communication, and the inconvenience of replacing the eFuse when it melts. I need to gather more information to carry out this hardware upgrade maintenance. I hope you can provide me with more suggestions so as to enhance everyone's experience. thank you.