So I took my car into the stealership for routine oil change and they told me my guibo was cracked (was cracked previous oil change as well) and everything else they marked as good. They quoted me 1200 for repair as well as 700 for transfer case fluid service and rear did fluid service (which I requested as routine maintenance). Price seamed high so I went to an independent euro shop who gave me all 3 jobs for 1300 (800 for guibo 300 for transfer and 100 for rear dif *just estimates*). So I took it there because it was 600 bucks cheaper for everything and they are very highly rated by the community with 980 reviews and a 4.8 star rating on google. I was feeling relieved I saved money and got my car into shape. Well I get a call today saying my engine mounts and transmission mounts are both collapsed and the transmission ones leaked all the oil onto the exhaust (which 2 days prior bmw techs explicitly stated in my inspection I didn’t have any leaks from transfer case) so it’s priority but engine mounts are not as they didn’t start leaking yet. They quoted me 700 for trans mounts and 2500 roughly for engine mounts. Are we fucking joking here? I figured I would have a few expensive repairs on this car but figured they would be engine related not problems that should never happen. What the fuck. I only payed 30k for this car when I bought it a year ago. It is paid off. But for a 30k car in my first year of ownership to have 4k of repairs needed to be done is fucking ridiculous. My previous 4 cars didnt cost even half that much in repairs over the 7 years previous I’ve been driving. This is ridiculous. I’m 23 and buying a house next year and would like to get my home gym decked to the gills but having to spend 4k in repairs is going to screw me out of that. Is this something that really needs to be fixed asap cause if that’s the case I’m selling the car. It’s got no vibrations and drives perfectly so I don’t see how it could be screwed but I was planning on keeping the car till it died but wasn’t expecting costly repairs like this to occur for 3-4 more years until it was around the 80k mile mark and expected it to be engine related like a normal car. But to spend 4k on a 30k car after 1 year of owning it and it only having 50k miles is ridiculous. The car is cherry otherwise has every package you could imagine, diamond stitched seat, soft close doors, m sport package, and anything in between and I love it but this is making it not worth it as it’s not even something that should go wrong with the car.

So my 440i is at 67k miles now and i got the low coolant warning for the first time.

When i checked i had to refill 600ml to hit max again.

I topped it off yesterday evening. This morning i checked and it was slightly below max again.

But the engine bay i super dry, not a single wet spot to find. I changed the reservoir cap aswell yesterday when i filled it up. But the old cap looke fine.

Doesnt seem like im burning any coolant either. Exhaust seems normal.

Can this be normal to an extend ? Can a little fluctation occur from outside temps maybe ?

I need to vent a bit here, sorry.
If you saw a b58 bmw for sale that you really wanted but just happend to stumble upon a youtube short of that exact car doing burnouts, drivning crazy speed and generally beeing driven recklessly. Would you still buy it? Well thats the situation im in :)

For some context: the car is not stock. Stage 2 mhd, catless downpipe mpe, do88 intake kit, xhp stage 3, St coilovers. This is how every m140i looks here. Cant find them stock, all of them are stage 2 and only a few are stage 1. Im gonna go stage 2 either way so its not to big of a deal.

The car is for sale on a dealership but the previous owner posted the videos, he had the car for little over a year and im afraid the car was just a toy to abuse. I have sent a request to the dealer to see the service history and that Will make or break it I think…

If you where in my shoes, and the service history was great would you buy the car even if you know the previous owner drove it like that? Thing is, I dont think anyone gets a b58 and goes stage 2 to 470hp and drives it like a prius. So every m140i here most likey has been driven on the streets how you would drive a m2 on a track. And mabey those burnouts where a one time thing but ge also has a m4 and e36 so ge has money to spend and mabey dont care as much what happends. But acually seeing that one car you want to buy doing burnouts like its a everyday thing kind of hurts.

I dont know if the car or my mentality is the problem here but im glad I could write Down what I feel. Thanks and sorry for my bs.

What’s up guys, I’m currently in the market for an f30 340i and some g20’s. I’m currently looking at a couple options that are stock around the 70-80k mile range (ideally I’d want less than 50) but I’m having a really hard time finding one in a spec that I like. I’m also in between a 340i, the new (and pre lci) is 350, gr Corolla, etc. Just trying to brainstorm a couple ideas for a car but I’d want a b58. Any thing to look out for when purchasing a stock gen 1 b58 with somewhat high miles? (Help me pick a car aswell)

TLDR: 2020 M340i/Supra oil pumps are failing prematurely due to a brittle plastic impeller. Despite a part redesign, BMW is denying liability and refusing goodwill repairs. Follow the link below to submit a formal complaint and help us force a recall.

Hello everyone,

The 2020 M340i/Supra oil pump is a known failure point. The original design uses a brittle plastic impeller that fails prematurely. While BMW claims "incorrect oil weight" causes these failures, even dealer-maintained cars are being affected.

BMW has since superseded the part number, which is an implicit admission of a design flaw. Yet they have issued no TSB or goodwill program. This leaves owners facing $3,000+ repair bills because the subframe must be dropped for replacement.

I know many people who have already been or will soon be affected by this issue, as it usually happens around 50k mi mark. The biggest sign that your pump is failing is being unable to complete an oil measurement in iDrive.

I reached out to complain to BMW regarding this issue to see why they’ve been silent on an issue plaguing these cars.

BMW North America claims they haven’t received enough complaints to take action. It’s time to change that.

How to Help

If you are in the USA, please submit a formal complaint to BMW Corporate using the link below. Be sure to include your VIN.

Link: BMW USA Contact Form

If you’re outside the USA, please submit the complaint through your country’s BMW site.

Copy/Paste this message into the comments section:

I am writing to express my deep disappointment regarding an oil pump failure on my vehicle at [Mileage] miles. While the vehicle is technically past its warranty period, a failure of this critical component at this mileage points to a latent manufacturing defect rather than expected wear.

The fact that the original part number has been superseded suggests a known design flaw. I am requesting that BMW investigate this issue and initiate a formal recall or proactive goodwill repair action to address it. I look forward to your prompt response regarding how you intend to rectify this matter for your customers.

Be sure to include your VIN in the contact form, as this is what BMW uses to track the number of complaints, according to the customer service rep.

If enough of us speak up, we can hold BMW accountable and secure the resolution we deserve.

Hello everyone! After debating, we've decided to keep our M440i as a third car and mostly daily driver instead of trading it in. On that note, I want to make sure that I've checked all the boxes on important service and any "upgrades" that can be done to belts, hoses, etc.

I've had the following done since buying it new (currently 57,xxx miles).

6 oil changes and a 7th scheduled next month (about every 8k miles).

Brand new set of tires at 39,000 miles (currently at 6/32 all the way around - probably replacement in the next 6 months

3 Brake Fluid exchanges - every 2 years, roughly every 20k miles

Full front differential service

Full rear differential service (these were both done at 50k).

Climate Control EVAP service (had a coupon, at 50k)

New air and cabin filters regularly

Transfer Case service at 50k

Transfer Case and Transmission Mount replacement (55k miles)

Complete rear brake replacement (Pads, wear sensors, disks, bolts)

Based on some of my reading, what I think is up at 60k:

New Plugs (are their better plugs, other things to be done during this service)

Transmission service (can the plastic pan be improved/replaced)

Serpentine Belt

Are there any other things that I can do to ensure (the best we can) the long term reliability and safety of the vehicle. My plan is to move to every 6k or twice annual oil changes after the 60k service as well.

It's been a great car, want to keep it as such.

Thanks!