









So, I need help because this issue has been getting worse and worse, and its either im the problem, or my printer is the problem, and trust me, I tried everything, I changed the Z-Offset, changed my filament, cleaned my nozzle, atp, I willing to take any help
Hi. I have noticed some errors where few particular layers would get shifted or reduced in dimension in the slicer before pushed to the printer. I noticed this first with some particular parts when printed in Bambulab H2S. But now, I'm starting to notice this in Bambulab A1 as well. I'm using Bambu studio for slicing and importing the models as step files. This step is not present in the CAD model, only happens on the slicer side. This doesn't happen with every part I print, but does happen in some parts time to time. Is this a slicer issue or something to do with step files as I'm using step files everytime and this happens very rarely. I'm using Esun pla+ for the print and print settings are the default ones in Bambu studio 0.2mm layer height and 15% infill. Any ideas on why this happens?
I got this esun pla and the cardboard spool didn't fit in my AMS. So I printed a spool and re-spooled it onto the printed spool. It was doing okay for the first quarter of the spool (which is the re-spooled spool so it's the last quarter of the original spool) but then I found that the filament was broken into chunks that were between 30 centimeters and 3 meters long.
I suspect that my re-spooler was terrible, but I don't want to gaslight myself into thinking that it was my fault when it might have been just a bad product(keep in mind, I'm happy to know if it was my fault. Then it's a lesson and that's more valuable). Does anyone have any insight?
EDIT.. Thanks for all your insights. I am absolutely gathering that's moisture, but it's very interesting because most of my filament is matter3D and this is my only esun and it all lives in the same environment and this is the only time I've seen this issue. Granted this is the only pla ive re-spooled.
Hi everyone,
Recently I have had a very frustrating issue with a new 2.4 I built and no matter how much calibration I have done I cant get the layers to be clean. I have checked extruder issues, hotend issues, axis issues, belt tension, and others while following multiple tuning guides. I’ve gotten to the point where I am lost and I and thinking about rebuilding the entire machine. Current setup is a formbot kit with a dragon hf and PT1000 thermistor. I'm running canbus on the sb2209 rp2040 and using manta m8p and cb1 combo. Though as a last attempt I hope the community can help me with this issue. Anything would help. Thanks.
printer config:
[include mainsail.cfg]
[include stealthburner_leds.cfg]
[mcu]
canbus_uuid: 8902dcd82bb5
[mcu EBBCan]
canbus_uuid: bdcb26b955cc
#####################################################################
# ADXL345 / Input Shaper
#####################################################################
[adxl345]
cs_pin: EBBCan:gpio1
spi_software_sclk_pin: EBBCan:gpio2
spi_software_mosi_pin: EBBCan:gpio0
spi_software_miso_pin: EBBCan:gpio3
axes_map: z,-y,x
[resonance_tester]
probe_points: 175, 175, 20
accel_chip: adxl345
#####################################################################
# Printer Kinematics
#####################################################################
[printer]
kinematics: corexy
max_velocity: 300
max_accel: 10000
max_z_velocity: 30
max_z_accel: 350
square_corner_velocity: 5.0
[exclude_object]
[idle_timeout]
timeout: 3300
#####################################################################
# Temperature Sensors
#####################################################################
[temperature_sensor MCU]
sensor_type: temperature_mcu
[temperature_sensor SoC]
sensor_type: temperature_host
#####################################################################
# X/Y Stepper Settings
#####################################################################
## X Stepper on Motor1 (B Motor)
[stepper_x]
step_pin: PE6
dir_pin: PE5
enable_pin: !PC14
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 40
full_steps_per_rotation: 200
endstop_pin: ^EBBCan:gpio24
position_min: 0
position_endstop: 350
position_max: 350
homing_speed: 70
homing_retract_dist: 5
homing_positive_dir: true
[tmc2209 stepper_x]
uart_pin: PC13
interpolate: True
run_current: 0.8
sense_resistor: 0.110
stealthchop_threshold: 0
## Y Stepper on Motor2 (A Motor)
[stepper_y]
step_pin: PE2
dir_pin: PE1
enable_pin: !PE4
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 40
full_steps_per_rotation: 200
endstop_pin: ^PF3
position_min: 0
position_endstop: 350
position_max: 350
homing_speed: 70
homing_retract_dist: 5
homing_positive_dir: true
[tmc2209 stepper_y]
uart_pin: PE3
interpolate: True
run_current: 0.8
sense_resistor: 0.110
stealthchop_threshold: 0
#####################################################################
# Z Stepper Settings
#####################################################################
## Z0 Stepper - Front Left on MOTOR7
[stepper_z]
step_pin: PG9
dir_pin: PD7
enable_pin: !PG11
rotation_distance: 40
gear_ratio: 80:16
microsteps: 16
endstop_pin: probe:z_virtual_endstop
position_max: 340
position_min: -5
homing_speed: 8
second_homing_speed: 3
homing_retract_dist: 3
[tmc2209 stepper_z]
uart_pin: PG10
interpolate: true
run_current: 0.8
hold_current: 0.4
sense_resistor: 0.110
stealthchop_threshold: 0
## Z1 Stepper - Rear Left on Motor5
[stepper_z1]
step_pin: PG13
dir_pin: !PG12
enable_pin: !PG15
rotation_distance: 40
gear_ratio: 80:16
microsteps: 16
[tmc2209 stepper_z1]
uart_pin: PG14
interpolate: true
run_current: 0.8
hold_current: 0.4
sense_resistor: 0.110
stealthchop_threshold: 0
## Z2 Stepper - Rear Right on Motor6
[stepper_z2]
step_pin: PB4
dir_pin: PB3
enable_pin: !PB6
rotation_distance: 40
gear_ratio: 80:16
microsteps: 16
[tmc2209 stepper_z2]
uart_pin: PB5
interpolate: true
run_current: 0.8
hold_current: 0.4
sense_resistor: 0.110
stealthchop_threshold: 0
## Z3 Stepper - Front Right on MOTOR3_A
[stepper_z3]
step_pin: PB8
dir_pin: !PB7
enable_pin: !PE0
rotation_distance: 40
gear_ratio: 80:16
microsteps: 16
[tmc2209 stepper_z3]
uart_pin: PB9
interpolate: true
run_current: 0.8
hold_current: 0.4
sense_resistor: 0.110
stealthchop_threshold: 0
#####################################################################
# Extruder
#####################################################################
[extruder]
step_pin: EBBCan:gpio18
dir_pin: EBBCan:gpio19
enable_pin: !EBBCan:gpio17
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 22.0304
gear_ratio: 50:10
nozzle_diameter: 0.400
filament_diameter: 1.750
heater_pin: EBBCan:gpio7
sensor_type: MAX31865
sensor_pin: EBBCan:gpio9
spi_software_sclk_pin: EBBCan:gpio10
spi_software_mosi_pin: EBBCan:gpio8
spi_software_miso_pin: EBBCan:gpio11
rtd_nominal_r: 100
rtd_reference_r: 430
rtd_num_of_wires: 2
min_temp: 0
max_temp: 310
max_extrude_only_distance: 105
max_extrude_cross_section: 2
pressure_advance: 0.023
pressure_advance_smooth_time: 0.02
#control: pid
#pid_kp: 20.664
#pid_ki: 1.085
#pid_kd: 98.409
[tmc2209 extruder]
uart_pin: EBBCan:gpio20
run_current: 0.65
interpolate: false
sense_resistor: 0.110
stealthchop_threshold: 0
(EDITED TO BE SHORTER)
Specs: Creality K1 Max 4 months old
Printing with Elegoo rapid pla
200-210 temp
My wife got me this printer for Christmas. I was initially impressed with it. I decided to start up a print remotely while at work through the app and came home to the dredded blob of death. Lesson learned and I replaced the hot end with one I found on Amazon. Was still having issues with it after that. When printing I would hear the clicking of gears and with a bit of research, figured the extruder gears (plastic) were fried. Thought it probably happened with the blob of death, so I ordered metal replacement gears as an upgrade. It fired off some gorgeous prints after that, but now I am getting nowhere. It’s like the layers are not sticking together. I cleared a clog in the nozzle but it didn’t seem to help. Pulled the head apart and everything seems to be good. No clogs, no wearing of the extruder gears. But the thing just will not properly print. My current guesses are that the hot end was not compatible with the K1 or the metal gears are not compatible. I still have the original plastic gears (they were undamaged). I have tried drying my filament and using different brands. It doesn’t matter. All of my prints from this thing end up like the picture. Ok brain trust. What do you think is going on?
I am getting this kind of error every time i print, on the edges of all my prints, it does not complete them, even the one that i marked as good, is not actually good and is not flat enough to connecting to the other half, can anyone help me on how to fix it? do i need to make the print slower? or increase the infill? the density any suggestion? so i can stop wasting PLA, thanks and I am using this printer
Creality Ender 3 V3 SE 3D Printer, 250mm/s Faster Print Speed CR Touch Auto Leveling Sprite Direct Extruder Dual Z-Axis Auto Filament Loading Ender 3 Upgrade 3D Printer Print Size 8.66x8.66x9.84 inch
By any chance has anyone looked or bought any filament from websites like temu or Ali express to check the quality of the prints ?
I'm just wondering because sometimes there's a hidden gem in online shops.
So here is some context, I've been having lots of issues with my printer and I thought I was doing something wrong, but I wasn't, my extruder module was not gripping the filament properly, so It would just spin without gripping, well, cool right, I was just gonna replace it, but WRONG, Not only did they HOT GLUE the freaking module in there, THEY HOT GLUED ALL WIRED TO THE FREAKING BOARD, oh and thats not all, they straight up left screws out. So now im stuck here trying to figure out what to do, and I tried to reach out to their customer service but, they refuse to reply to me, or help me at all, so please, if you have any solutions that would allow me to fix this without breaking anything, it would be really nice
Hi all,
I have an Flash forge AD5X and have some 700 hours printed on it. Got stuck many times but never to this level.
Looking for some advice, how to remove the PLA stuck in between the feed tube and the head?
I removed the the side screw as well, still can't push or pull it out.
Any advice?
Recently my printer A1 started having issue when I wanted to use the 0.2mm nozzle where the nozzle prints into the build plate and when using the textured PEI plate, you can hear it scrape on the surface. But when I tried the 0.4mm nozzle, everything was working perfectly with no issues.
I tried 2 0.2mm nozzles, and both did the same thing, they have no damanga and no clogs, on of them is even brand new.
I tried different plates, places to print, scnead the everything, did multiple calibrations, chceck the heater screws, checked the extruder, trammed the bed and it still print too low and only with the 0.2mm nozzle. And yes, I made sure the nozzle is properly seated as I do every time.
Using Z offset only works with Texured plate and I use that one the least so that is off the table for me.
I printed some stuff without issues yesterday, but the overnight print turned out horrible. Any ideas?
3DHojor PLA Basic
Sovol Sv06 plus
PEI Plate
Bed Temp 55°C
Print Temp 220°C
Layer Height 0.2mm
Orca Slicer
Print speeds in last screenshot
P1S, PETG, when printing on 100% infill prints come out like this. How to fix this issue?
(EDIT) This issue affects every print not only 100% infill.
been eyeing a larger bed for a while and just saw this deal $370 for that build volume and 600mm/s speed seems suspiciously good?
currently using a smaller setup but im tired of splitting files. how is the actual print quality at those higher speeds before i pull the trigger on this? thanks!
My Bambulab A1 displayed an error message saying the power had failed, but the power was actually on.I smelled a little bit of a burned smell coming from my printer wich is now gone. And now I can no longer connect my printer to my mobile phone or Bambu Studio. The screen and the light next to it on the printer no longer come on. And btw My printer is like 4 months old and 800+ print hours.
If you are having X2D filament feeding issues and filament retraction issues. It is due to over greased gears in the extruder. Took mine apart and cleaned the excess grease off the extruder drive teeth. Excess grease from factory. Once cleaned, filament feeding has been working without any Ams or machine safeties being tripped. Here’s a link to disassemble head.
I will admit there is way to many things that need removed to get to the extruder gear assembly. I have a p1S and cut my teeth on that first. But the dual nozzle heads are to be expected to have a more complex design. Just wish it was ease at to clean the extruder.
https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x2d/maintenance/replace-extruder-components
I got an Easy Threed K10 and this keeps happening with my prints. I know it’s a super cheap printer but I don’t understand why it keeps doing this. (I apologize for the shape of the plate. Because of the shifting and material of the plate it’s a pain to get cleaned off.)
Hi guys,
I’m new to 3D printing and currently printing with PLA/PETG. I printed this bag using gradient PLA and want to smooth out the layer lines without losing the color effect.
Most methods I found involve sanding, filler/resin, primer, and painting, which gives great results, but way too much work and painting defeats the purpose of the gradient filament.
Is there any simpler method? Maybe just sanding + clear resin/coating or something similar to get a cleaner/smoother finish without filler or primer? I’m not looking for perfect results, just a noticeable improvement.
I already tried a PLA smoothing solution from AliExpress and it didn’t work well. Heat also just caused bubbling instead of smoothing.
I am new to 3d printing and am trying to print just a container lid, but on one end a centimeter of the lid is printing as a bridge separate from the rest of the lid. It is connected but looks terrible lol..because it's a bridge instead of normal printing. I have no idea how to fix it. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I'm printing on Snapmaker U1with Polymaker PETG, although the filament shouldn't matter. I made the .stl into a .step file in FreeCAD, then imported into Shapr3d to add logo, using Snapmaker Orca slicer. Lid looks completely fine in prepare tab but when I slice it the bridge shows. This is my 2nd attempt to print it. Tried repairing the file with the windows repair tool and simplifying the print to better quality but nothing changes
Thanks