I'm working on a print where I want the color changes to run together. I want it to look horrifying and diseased. I set flushing volumes to 0, but I'm still showing some flushing time and some flushing used. How do I get rid of it, or is the slicer just lying to me?
So, I'm currently working on building my own "laptop" thing out of spare parts and junk. I've gotten some excellent help in this community, and I hope I've given some helpful answers.
This is the carcass of a 1987 Compaq SLT-286 laptop. I'm putting a NUC8I3PNB board into it. Originally, I wanted a full Mini-ITX build, but I just don't have the space.
Clearly I have more work to do here. A bit more trimming of the screen bezel, I need to redesign the mouse bracket, and I really need a 40 pin coaxial eDP cable instead of this ribbon. I'm badly abusing that ribbon to make it fit and I don't think it will last forever.
The laptop isn't completely assembled in the pictures, this is still very much a WIP. The keyboard doesn't sit flush due to the mouse bracket and mouse, and I have yet to decide on battery, so it's currently still wall-powered via 20v USB-C.
The keyboard is original to the computer, and is connected via PS/2 to USB adapter. The mouse is a period-correct ps/2 ball.
The screen is a NV110WTM-N61 2160x1440 eDP flat panel, and compared to the old one I have lots of space behind and to the sides. I think I'll put speakers to the sides and maybe more batteries behind the screen.
I plan on shoving as much lithium into this build as possible. I want to be able to jump a car from my laptop, and charge it via USB-C.
I'm also considering trying to make the KB and mouse wireless, although that's going to be an adventure, and would probably be easier to just use modern peripherals, even if I have to print a bracket to fit the keyboard properly to the laptop chassis. It locks in as part of it, even if it's removable.
So, first off, I want to credit the actual designer and share his Youtube channel. The original model is here.
What I did was modify his design. The original was designed for a thin graphics card, a pico PSU, and a metal IO plate.
Unfortunately, I didn't have an IO shield, a Pico power supply, or the right graphics card for this build.
So, I needed to make some changes. After printing the original case, I got to work.
I widened it by enough to fit my chosen graphics card, and installed standoffs for a mining-type power supply, and designed IO shields for both my motherboard and my graphics card. I also added a mounting point for dual USB3 ports in the front, and added a hole for my chosen barrel jack.
To build the IO shield, I found one for sale on eBay to use as a template. I took the picture, ran it through a 2d-3d converter (I forget which one), and imported into Tinkercad. I used calipers to measure my ports and distances, and the OG case model to get the outer dimensions.
For building the graphics card IO shield, I just got creative with Tinkercad 's admittedly poor measuring system and kinda winged it. It worked out OK. I removed the mounting bracket of the GTX1050ti, so that it would butt directly up against the back of the case.
This did cause me some issues. I figured I could use part of the IO bracket mounting holes, but I wasn't quite precise enough and ended up re-using some white parts from a different print to mount the graphics card by the back corner. For version 2 (if I do it), I can now take the measurements I need in order to mold the bracket.
I followed Lohtec's design philosophy with the standoffs for the power supply, and made them ramped so they could be printed in place with no supports. This worked really well.
This computer was made with whatever I had laying around from other projects. A mining power supply, a X11ssv-Q mini ITX industrial motherboard, an Intel i7-7700, and, for some strange reason, a brand-new-in-box GTX1050. I have no idea why I managed to find 2 of these cards still in the box, and the seller said they came from auction. They were cheap, small, and didn't require external power, so I'm happy with it.
I did have to buy a riser, power button, and a couple other small parts, but this entire system cost me less than $200. I believe it could be build from the ground up for less than $300 in materials.
To power this abomination, I used a 12v 25 amp LED power supply, going through the barrel connector on the back.
In some of the pictures, you can see the original model side-by-side with the redesigned version.
I want to share some software that I use for my underpowered computers to play games that are well beyond their specs.
Sunshine is (free and open source) software that you can install on a computer to allow remote access. It's designed to be secure. Easy to set up. Apollo is a different version of it that is a bit faster. These work better than Steam Remote Play, and they send your entire desktop, not just a Steam app.
You'll install Sunshine on the more powerful device to stream to the weaker client device. The client needs to have Moonlight installed. But, you can also install Moonlight on your phone, and some smart TV's and streaming devices.
If you have a weak, old laptop, chances are you also have weak, old wifi. You'll be better off if you use wired Ethernet on both of them. Sunshine is available for Windows and Linux, whereas Moonlight is available for almost everything. Apollo is only available for Windows right now, but Linux is planned for the future.
No matter what you do, there is a small amount of latency involved with streaming. That latency increases when the client is weak, because it's still having to decode the high-speed video stream from the host computer. This tends to result in a bit of a delay between pressing a button and the action in game happening. In some games, this really matters. In some it does not. You'll have to experiment with your particular hardware and games in order to figure out what you can live with.
Duo uses Sunshine, so all the caveats above apply. But! It allows you to log multiple people in at the same time on 1 computer. One person will sit at the physical computer, while another one can stream using Moonlight. This is great for multiplayer games, or if a friend in the same house would like to let you use the computer.
The 2 instances do not have to be running the same application. One can be browsing reddit while the other plays Halo.
Duo is, unfortunately, not free or open source. The author requires a donation to their Patreon for all the features. The free version limits you to 1 stream at 30fps. Duo is also only available for Windows.
Nucleus allows you to turn non-splitscreen games into split screen, on the same computer. Seperate mouse, seperate keyboard, seperate controller, even seperate display if necessary.
This involves running multiple instances of the same game, so it's very intensive and requires a rather powerful computer to make it work well. I couldn't get more than 3 stable instances of Halo MCC to run on an i7 12 gen laptop with 32gb of DDR5 ram and a 3050 GPU.
All of these do require some work to set up, but are quite worth it in the end.
Hey all, I'm working on a custom laptop using a nuc8i3PNB board. Does anyone know what models will have the same backplate and mounting dimensions so that I can find a 3D printed case to give me a starting point for mounting?
This isn't commercial, and won't be published when I'm done (unless someone really wants an adapter to put a NUC into a 1987 Compaq laptop), I just want a starting point to merge into my base plate.