u/Cool_Software9950

Amber DRLs on 2019-2021 Sierra 1500
▲ 4 r/gmc+1 crossposts

Amber DRLs on 2019-2021 Sierra 1500

Finally got the amber DRLs working on my 2019-2021 Sierra 1500.

Always thought the stock white DRLs looked kinda bland, especially on darker trucks. Wanted more of that Raptor-style amber look. Doesn’t help that this truck doesn’t have a Led DRL like the newer ones. So couldn’t use the venom kit.

Purchased some new headlights that had led DRLs. Took some wiring/testing and I got the DRLs switched over to amber and honestly it completely changed the front end at night.

Haven’t really seen many people do this on the pre-facelift 1500s yet.

A few pics/videos of how it turned out:

Raptor Style Amber DRLs on a 2019-2021 GMC Sierra 1500
https://youtu.be/m-W8zXVkTPc

Curious what people think:
clean OEM+ look or too much?

u/Cool_Software9950 — 3 days ago
▲ 94 r/gmc+1 crossposts

37s on a 2021 GMC sierra 1500

Finally threw 37s on my 2021 Sierra AT4 1500 with the LM2 Duramax. Honestly wasn’t sure if I was gonna regret it or not, but after driving it for a while now… I kinda love how ridiculous it looks.

Running a BDS 4” lift with 37x12.50s. Definitely took some trimming and playing around to get everything happy. It’s not one of those “bolted right up no issues” setups people claim online. Had to deal with clearance in the usual spots and make sure it wouldn’t destroy itself at full lock.

That said… the stance is worth it. The truck just looks mean now. Ride quality honestly still isn’t bad either.

In this video below I show the:
- trimming/cutting
- rubbing areas
- 0-60 difference
- weight comparison
- MPG
- before/after with 35s

People online either act like 37s are impossible on a 1500 or pretend there’s zero downsides. Truth is it’s somewhere in the middle.

Anyone else here running 37s on a half ton?

My video 👇
Fitting 37's On a GMC Sierra 1500 - Lift, Trimming, Rubbing ETC
https://youtu.be/jinC2YpgstA

u/Cool_Software9950 — 5 days ago
▲ 5 r/LM2_LZ0_Duramax_3_0+2 crossposts

Just finished installing the Amsoil Dual Remote Oil Bypass System on my 2021 Sierra AT4 3.0L Duramax (LM2), and figured I’d share some insight for anyone considering it. Seems like there is nothing anywhere about it.

Why I went this route:
A dual oil filter bypass system seems to be something all the big boy diesels run. So wanted to give it a shot on my LM2.

How it works (simple terms):
One filter handles full flow (like stock)
The second is a bypass filter that slowly cleans a small portion of oil at a time but at a much finer level
Over time, your entire oil supply gets significantly cleaner than stock filtration alone

Initial thoughts:
Build quality is solid
Definitely not a “quick install,” mounting the system was hardest part.
Also you have to make your own AN lines which is something I have done plenty of times

In the end I’m not sure if the price is worth it or if I will benefit from it. Again like I mentioned the big boys run one so why not 🤷‍♂️ the 10 micron filter last for 10k miles and the 2 micron filter last for 45k miles. I won’t be changing them often.

Anyways a video of the install if you’re interested.

AMSOIL Dual Filter Oil Bypass on The LM2 Duramax - Install
https://youtu.be/kBlBXEhisro

u/Cool_Software9950 — 8 days ago
▲ 14 r/accord

Just hit 200,000 miles on my 2012 Accord (2.4L).

People always say these cars run forever, which… yeah, kinda. But you don’t get to 200k without replacing stuff.

Here’s what mine needed getting here:
AC compressor
Cam position sensor
Valve cover gasket
VVT Gasket
Passenger CV axle
Upstream O2 sensor
Power steering system basically redone (pump, reservoir, lines + flush)
Usual maintenance — plugs, belt, fluids, etc

Nothing blew up, but it’s been more of a slow “fix something every so often” situation, especially past like 150k.

Biggest thing I’ve noticed is it’s not even mileage at this point — it’s just age. Rubber, seals, sensors… they start going and you just deal with it as it comes.

The torque converter is going bad and unfortunately I found a small leak inside the driver side inner tie rod boot. So steering rack is bad. 😩

Made a video going through everything I replaced and what the car’s been like at 200k.

200,000+ Mile 2012 Honda Accord 2.4L - Everything I Had To Replace
https://youtu.be/PsFXEvbXIGQ

u/Cool_Software9950 — 11 days ago
▲ 1 r/B58Enthusiasts+1 crossposts

Just finished installing an intercooler chiller setup on the MKV Supra (B58), and this ended up being one of the more interesting mods I’ve done so far. Most people talk about heat soak, but seeing the difference after actually adding a chiller was pretty eye-opening.

Why I did it:
The car would heat soak quickly after a few pulls
Intake temps would stay elevated longer than expected
Wanted something more consistent than just a bigger intercooler

What the install was like:
Routing lines was the biggest time sink — planning clean routing matters more than anything
Mounting the chiller unit took some trial and error to keep everything secure and serviceable
Electrical side wasn’t difficult, just needed to be done clean
Space gets tight fast once everything is in place

What caught me off guard:
The manifold got so cold that it created condensation inside and caused me to misfire

Not saying it’s necessary for everyone, but if you’re dealing with heat soak or doing repeated pulls, it makes a noticeable difference in consistency.

Curious if anyone else here is running a chiller setup on a B58—worth it in your experience long-term?

Full install + testing here if you want to see the entire process and results:

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLAKm-fMX0fhVoakhUTlSph9UkvOpy9r\_3&si=2\_3shP-4SlunOtcO

reddit.com
u/Cool_Software9950 — 11 days ago
▲ 9 r/ToyotaSupra+2 crossposts

Just finished pulling and building the transmission on my MKV Supra. I went with a ATS stage 2 kit for the build, and it ended up being more involved than most of the guides make it seem. Figured I’d lay out the parts that actually slowed me down in case anyone else is planning to do it.

What stood out:
Clearance is tight everywhere — getting the trans out without fighting the tunnel takes more repositioning than expected
Removing the torque converter— you can’t rush this part or you’ll waste time backtracking. I messed up and didn’t. Made it a lot harder in the end.
Connector access — some of the electrical connections are in awkward spots and easy to miss
Bolts - Some are hard to access. Especially the one on top.
Fill procedure - This I messed up cause I found so many guides online. In the end I jacked up the passenger side as high as possible. Filled it. Started the car to let it warm up and filled it up some more.

The build itself was not as hard as I thought. This was my first time ever doing any transmission work. In the end I could do it for others.

Overall not impossible, but definitely not as straightforward as it looks in quick clips. If you’re going into this, expect it to take longer than you think and plan for tight working space.
If anyone’s done this job before, curious what gave you the most trouble.

Full video of the process here if you want to see everything step-by-step:

MKV Supra 8HP Transmission Removal Guide (Stage 2 Build Start)
https://youtu.be/a9h\_J3c\_rQs

How I Built a Stage 2 ATS 8HP Transmission at Home (Part 1)
https://youtu.be/wJYbIqc-tn8

The Stage 2 ATS 8HP Transmission Build (Part 2)
https://youtu.be/OrBJMmNUTfM

Final Assembly of My Stage 2 ATS 8HP Transmission Build (Part 3)
https://youtu.be/yL1bgpkX-Nk

reddit.com
u/Cool_Software9950 — 11 days ago