My stances are single and dual bladed - vents don't show up
Any idea how to get it to show up?
I don't want to do cross guard stance, I just want the vents.
Thanks!
Any idea how to get it to show up?
I don't want to do cross guard stance, I just want the vents.
Thanks!
Sometimes when I go there, the date is the day prior, and when I've bought that, those fishes are the ones I end up cooking because the smell is stronger than if I get it the same day. Should I just call my location and ask or what?
System: 13600k + 3060ti + 32gb ram.
I am testing out 4k monitor next to my 1440p monitor to see if I want keep it (and have two 4k monitors.) With the 1440p monitor, I can get a stable 60fps playing Jedi Survivor at 1440p. I thought I would be able to change the resolution on the 4k monitor to 1440p or just run the game at 1440p still (because it's not going to run at 4k, and don't really want to go down to 1080p), but I'm getting what I think is screen tearing in the game whenever I move there is a 1" wide horizontal line in the middle of the screen with what looks like tearing. The rest of the screen looks ok. What can I try to change to run the game at 1440p 60fps, or am I out of luck?
Thank you.
Ray tracing is off already. Browser minimized, since it causes stuttering if not. I can overclock the GPU a little if necessary. Right now it's just undervolted. My ram is at like 90% with the game running. I can try closing the browser with like 100 tabs and get like 10-15% more ram if needed.
I'm planning to play most games at 1080p and some at 1440p, but keep the resolution at 1440p or 4k, whichever is best.
We are lighting a wood shop in the pole barn. We have decided on EMPTY FIXTURES that will accept T8 LED tubes. (We need empty fixtures because we have some high CRI tubes picked out that are way better than integrated fixtures.)
But I'm looking at shop lights with a reflector vs without reflector. Without reflector seems to be much more affordable, so I was hoping to do as many of the lights as possible without a reflector. Additionally, I'm having a really hard time finding ones with a reflector in my price range and with just a knock out hole (we don't want the ones with the cord already there.)
All the ones like this don't have a reflector, and I don't see any option to add one? Do they have aftermarket reflectors?? https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/232090/PLT-50430.html
Most of the lights will be about 13' high. I was thinking of trying to get ones with a reflector to go over the work bench/ machine area along the wall, then ones without reflectors for the middle of the shop floor.
Someone said, "point a couple of them upwards and let the light bounce back down" apparently that light things more gently and evenly or something. I thought that not having reflectors on a couple of them might kinda do this, even if they aren't pointing up. (I don't think we can point any up because we need the light to be focused below, even for the ones over the shop floor. We don't have any extra space or money for extra lights to point upward.)
Anyways, what should we be doing here?
Thank you.
We are trying to light the woodshop in the pole barn, and we are trying to get a bunch of old (or new) EMPTY FIXTURES that will accept T8 LED tubes. (We need empty fixtures because we have some high CRI tubes picked out that are way better than integrated fixtures. We don't want T12 fixtures because even though T8 will fit, sometimes it will be loose or look weird or whatever.)
I'm trying to beat just buying them at the big box hardware store for around $20/each. I've been calling lighting supply places on google maps in the area and the prices are like $29/each and higher. Looking for bulk/contractor pricing, even though I am not a contractor.
I'm willing to buy just a few at a time from different places if the price is right. They don't have to all match exactly. Need probably 16 or more. But yeah, please let me know if you have any leads.
Thank you.
I'm trying to do "method 2" where you use shift to drag the whole curve:
https://www.reddit.com/r/nvidia/comments/tw8j6r/there_are_two_methods_people_follow_when/
The video makes sense until he does 1950 - 1725 = 225. I don't know where he got 1725 from. There is no sound and no explanation. Google says it could be a factory OC frequency.
3060ti FE is not factory overclocked and It runs at NVIDIA’s reference specifications, featuring a 1410 MHz base clock and a 1665 MHz boost clock.
To start, my goal is to lower the power draw significantly, and boost performance just slightly.
I wanted to try and set the point and drag the curve to 1900mnhz at 900mv. But Jedi Survivor that usually gets 58-60fps (1440p, high settings, ray tracing on) crashes immediately lol. I went down to 1852 and 900mv and it starts but then crashes quickly. I didn't change anything else besides the VF curve.
What settings should I try and is there anything else I should be doing right now? Once I find a stable point and curve, what else should I change? I know I should try to increase the memory clock 500-1000.
Thanks.
Edit: Went down to 1800 and 900mv and it still crashes.
Ok, 1800mhz and 925mv and it runs fine. Where should I go from here?
I figured out with PET you can pinch it to the wire, then bunch it up and pinch with the second hard, then release the first hand to make the wire "jump" whatever direction you want it to go, no matter how long the section. I'm sure most of you already knew this, but I didn't read it anywhere. Last time I was doing this, I wouldn't have been able to make cables this long since my limit was based on how far I could shove the cable into the sleeving, which was about 6 inches lol