u/AbbreviationsLow

My kid pushed in the center dust caps on my Bowers & Wilkins DM580 floorstanding speakers. The cones themselves don’t look torn, but the middle domes/caps are visibly dented in.

I’m trying to figure out:

1. Are these just dust caps, or do they affect the sound on this model?

2. Is this usually fixable with vacuum/tape, or should I remove the drivers and try from the inside?

3. What is the safest method to pull them back out without damaging the voice coil or cone?

4. If the caps remain creased, is that mostly cosmetic, or does it reduce sound/value?

5. What signs should I listen for to know if the driver is actually damaged?

The speakers still play, but I haven’t pushed them hard yet. I bought the pair for around €120, so I’d really like to save them if possible.

Photo attached. Any advice from people who have repaired pushed-in dust caps before would be appreciated.

Hey everyone,

I recently picked up a Marantz 6300 for €50 and I’m trying to decide what the smartest move is. (Yes, 50. No typo)

This one has clearly been modified, but not in a cheap way.

Plinth condition:

- It’s been painted black by a previous owner or pro.

- The paint job is actually high quality (you can tell it was done properly, not a DIY spray job)

- However, due to age, it’s now chipping at the usual spots (edges/corners), and I can see the original veneer underneath

- The back side is still unpainted, so it’s a mix of original + painted

So it looks good overall, but up close the wear is obvious.

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My concern about restoring:

I’m considering having it professionally restored, but I’m worried about what’s underneath:

- If the paint gets removed, the veneer might be damaged, uneven, or in bad condition

- That could make a full wood restoration difficult or inconsistent

So I’m wondering:

- Is it better to strip and restore the veneer, or

- Just repaint it black again (professionally) and keep that look?

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Tonearm & mods:

- The original arm is replaced with a Sony PUA-1600

- Two original buttons are missing/covered (up and down- since the PUA-1600 is manual.

- There’s an added “MC” button (not sure how well it’s implemented)

From what I understand, the Sony arm is actually quite high-end, which makes this a bit of a hybrid setup. What is this MC button?

The physical rail/mount for the tonearm assembly is broken.

I can remove/screw off the top to access it, and I can temporarily fix it with something like a zip tie, but I’d obviously prefer a proper solution.

Does anyone know if:

this part is available somewhere (original or donor), or

if there are generic replacements / DIY solutions people use for this kind of rail?

Would really appreciate any direction before I try to rig something permanent myself.

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Headshell / cartridge situation:

- It currently has a headshell, but it’s broken

- I was advised to get a specific replacement headshell, but I’m unsure if I should go straight for that: Audio Technica VM95 AT-VM95E/H

So:

- Should I invest in a good matching headshell right away, or

- Just buy a cheap/generic one first to test the turntable?

Also open to cartridge + headshell combo recommendations in the €50–120 range.

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Main questions:

- Is this still valuable as a modified Marantz 6300?

- Does the Sony PUA-1600 increase or hurt value?

- Strip & restore veneer vs repaint black — what would you do?

- Is repainting it black again a “safe” option if the veneer underneath is questionable?

- What’s the smartest move regarding the headshell: test cheap first or go quality immediately?

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So someone bought a 6300 new, modified it like crazy... For a reason? I wonder why? To make it better? Did he?

I like original gear, but since this one is already modified, I’m trying to make the best long-term decision rather than chasing originality that’s already gone.

Is the value now lower or higher?

Curious to hear your opinions!

I’m stuck choosing between two cassette decks, and this time I’m NOT thinking about resale or specs on paper — just which one is more enjoyable to actually own and use.

I have:

- JVC KD-A5

- Pioneer CT-F750 (currently replacing belts, so haven’t fully tested it yet)

What I personally notice:

- The JVC has this really nice dark look with multi-color lighting (green/red/yellow), feels very “alive” when it’s on

- The Pioneer has that classic open cassette + silver face aesthetic, very satisfying mechanically

From what I understand, the JVC is probably a bit better technically, but I’m not chasing specs — I’m more interested in the overall experience.

So I’m curious:

- Which one would YOU keep if it was purely about enjoyment?

- Do you actually notice a real-world sound difference between these types of decks?

- Does the auto-reverse on the CT-F750 make it feel worse or less “pure” to use?

- Which one do you end up using more in real life, not just admiring?

I’ll probably keep only one long-term, but I want to hear from people who’ve lived with these kinds of decks.

Interested in both technical opinions and just gut feelings.