r/audiorepair

Hi everyone! Totally new to this hobby. My subwoofer** (klipsch) is not playing any sound. I know it’s on-I can hear a slight hum when I put my ear next to it. It’s hooked up to a Yamaha Rx-v2700 receiver. It’s on the Phono input, hooked to a JVC turntable. Did I hook it up wrong? How should I troubleshoot?

Hello, I got a good deal on an SA750+some speakers and it's pretty good but it has some panning issues I'd like to fix.

The issues that I have are:

-Moving volume knob pans the audio(especially if I lower it all the way) to the right.

-Sometimes audio panning drifts by itself and I have to press the already selected selector switch to rebalance it.

-Moving balance sometimes crackles the sound.

Has anyone had similar issues or has experience with similar amps?
I'm looking for any help I can get, google has been very limited.

I'm perfectly fine with doing anything necessary myself but I need some guidance on this...

Thanks in advance! :)

I got this Panasonic se-1240 a few years ago and the radio is the only thing that works and that the cassette deck doesnt work as well as the turntable. the only thing I have been able to figure out is that the turntable belt needs replacing. any ideas on how to go about repairing it?

I have one of these AudioSource AMP THREE amplifiers that won't come out of speaker protection. I've traced the protection circuit back to the Zener at D14 where it only measures 2v. This is a link to the schematic.

Looking closely at the diode, it's definitely damaged; it measures open in either direction and there's a little blob of solder on one end and that end looks burnt. When I short across it, the protection circuit deactivates and I get good output. (I checked the rest of the amplification stage to make sure there wasn't something actually wrong there... everything measures normally as best I can tell.)

Any ideas about why this Zener failed? The circuit is pretty straightforward; It gets voltage from a bridge rectifier (measures good) and is current limited by a 220k resistor (R103) which should be plenty. Downstream of that diode is just switching transistors for LED's and relays, very low current stuff.

I don't want to get down the road and have to replace this diode again; is there anything else in this circuit I should replace or check while I'm in there? I did remove and test C17, thinking that cap had an issue but it measured fine.

Just looking for some advice from folks more experienced than I. Thanks in advance!

Hello everyone! I have a 1989 Toshiba MHF845 hifi VCR with this bad idler wheel that has been pressed against a capstan for too long. Any ideas on how to get this smooth again or replace it? Thanks.

so Mauser doesn't seem to have them digikey doesn't have them. Is there another source? are you using kemet? Panasonic?

ps. also since I have your attention, have you ever heard of this tried? it?

You take your large power supply capss and add a small, high-quality film capacitor in parallel with each one.

Electrically:

Big cap → handles low-frequency energy (bass, bulk storage)

Film cap → handles high-frequency noise and transient spikes

(i've tried posting to other subreddits but they won't go through? not sure if this is the right one, but if not i'd greatly appreciate any redirection)

hey team!

i had finally replaced my turntable after my old one was toast. now, this new one only has an aux output, whereas the speakers i used to use were connected through just the wire (exhibit C). i bought this converter off of amazon (exhibit A) to help attach them to the aux port because it seemed to have decent reviews and looked like it would get the job done.

looking now, there are a few things that are confusing me. the converter uses a tiny screwdriver to screw the wires in place, but it has four letters that are throwing me off (exhibit B): L; R; V; and some upside-down T shape. i can put together that L and R are left and right, but it doesn't help me figure out which port is negative and positive. does anybody know which spot each wire should go into?

i like to think i'm not completely incompetent with this stuff, but i'm still quite new to it and would love to get the speakers sorted out. is there still a way to do it? did i get the wrong product?

any info would be greatly appreciated! i'll be sure to answer any questions that come my way!

Before you guys tar and feather me and say you should learn to read a schematic first you bone head.. I gotta start somewhere right? I picked up this Pioneer SA 5800 for free. It played good if not a little noisy in channels. not static from the pots. And the fluroscan won't light up.

Figured this isn't some grail amp so might as well start my journey doing a complete recap using a eBay kit. I mainly wanted to get that flouroscan to illuminate. I know that it isn't recommended to just start pulling out in spec caps willy nilly but I don't have a full bench with oscilloscope yet and that type of work is definitely out of my depth right now.

Anyways not to toot my own horn but I'm about 3/4 of the way through and my solder joints are looking nice and shiny and neat. But I found these two blue wires clipped in half. Is this a typical find in these receivers or is this potentially an issue?

I'll accept any type of fish. Give me a fish or teach me to fish (aka your favorite resource to learn schematics)

Ps yes I'm using a dim bulb tester and a bleeder resistor when going back and forth testing it.

Schematic on page 140: https://elektrotanya.com/yamaha_emx512sc-emx312sc.pdf/download.html

It blowed some resistors, R418 and R458. Any ideas of what could be happening?

I had already fixed this problem before, I replaced both R418 and R424 and it was working fine. this time blowed R458 too. there is no other visible damage or weird voltages.

I have bought two Eminence Delta 12a woofers. They have some small but significant tears in the perimiter. Please advise what I should do - should I refoam (and if so what what)? Or, should use the coffee filter/PVA combo trick?

Been fighting this CT-F8282 for a while now. Didn’t know when I got it someone had cannibalized the clutch. So found one of those which took a couple of weeks to receive. Got it together and only FF would work. Whoever owned it before had attempted a repair I guess and installed the return springs wrong. Then the heads wouldn’t move up to meet the capstan. Got that figured out finally as they didn’t install the backing plate correctly. When I got it to play it sounded like Alvin and the Chipmunks as they had “adjusted” the screw controlling the motor speed.

Nothing worse than trying to figure out someone else’s mess. I’d rather just have a typical broken unit which I can figure out what to fix.

Looking to buy a pair of Yamaha NS-344 speakers off Facebook marketplace. Price is $250. I went to inspect them and saw that one midrange woofer is damaged. I couldn’t tell a difference in the sound quality, but honestly, I’m not sure I’m qualified to. It didn’t sound off, at least. Also, when I moved the dials for the high and mid, I heard a lot of crackling. Is that expected, or a sign of failure?

Can anyone advise, based on the pictures, how bad this damage is, and whether the speaker would be worth repairing (and cost of re-coning?)

You can feel that the paper is soft and compromised when you run your finger around the woofer.

Thanks!