u/50ug — reddlx

▲ 181 r/projectcar

Copart car complete

2015 Volvo s60- 120k miles, rear end left side damage.

Ended up buying this Volvo for my sister, for a project car as her old Volvo has 250k+ miles! So it’s time for an upgrade, and ended up getting this on Copart for $1600 before the fees, and around $2300 after fees.

Bought a tail light, trunk and rear bumper for $550 dollars, from someone local who had matching paint.

all this work to get it back to straight took 17 hours. I did this with me and my sister, and it was fairly simple, and a great learning process!
Definitely frustrating in some parts, as I’ve never done any body work, but soooo worth it!

In all spent was $2900

u/50ug — 4 days ago

▲ 260 r/Integra+1 crossposts

Only thing I need is exterior body work- finished with the engine and everything today, runs drives and boosts amazing! Makes 543whp on the dyno!
Front bumper is sagging unfortunately, would like to get it to line up nice again- and the trunk has a dent in it, get the car sanded, primed and painted! We should be good to go after that:)
Not really planning on selling, but the build list is below, what would be a fair price for this build?

-Engine (Bottom End): Wiseco Pistons, Skunk2 Connecting Rods, Golden Eagle Sleeve
-Engine (Head) Skunk2 Valve Springs/retainers, APR head studs
-Turbo System: Precision 58/58 Turbo, PLM (Pim) Ram-horn Manifold, Tial Wastegate, Custom painted Blow-Off Valve (BOV), Custom welded boost piping, Sheepy race catch can, swirl pot.
-Fueling: Injector Dynamics ID1000s, Tuned for E85.
-Drivetrain: Manual GSR (LSD) Trans with new bearings/synchros, Competition Clutch (paired with a Fidanza Flywheel), Steel braided clutch lines.
-Management: Hondata s300 (Professional Tune), 4-Bar MAP sensor, Fully electronic Boost control (MAC valve), wide band gauge
-Chassis/Suspension: New struts and bearings all around, Motor mounts, Steel braided brake lines, new control arms (upper and lower) Custom powdercoated accents, Si Wheels
-The Fuel Pump: Walbro 450 (LPH)

u/50ug — 12 days ago

▲ 1 r/AudiS4

I have a B6 S4 with a misfire on bank 1.

Specifically on cylinder 3 and minor misfire on 1, that overtime spreads to all cylinders 1-4.

List of all new parts:

8x Coil pack , 8x spark plug, 8x fuel injectors, Alternator, Battery, Throttle Body, vacuum purge valve, and intake filter.

I’ve done vacuum test, compression test, battery ground volts tested, coil harness connector volts test, fuel pressure test.

The red wire on the battery is getting hot every single time I start the car, and it turn it on.

The middle on cylinder 3 is about 100-150 misfire a minute, and cylinder 1 is around 20-30 misfire a minute.

When the car is running, I unplugged all of the coil pack harness from bank 1, and the cars idle did NOT change, the car stayed at the same idle. I turned the car off, and then tried to turn it back on, and when the car started with the coil harness off, you could then tell the misfire and idle had changed. (Not sure why)

The cars power doesn’t feel bad, but it bucks very hard in lower RPMS/gears (1-3 gear) and when I’m in 1-2 gear in parking lots trying to drive, the car will shake/buck until I give it more gas or shift it higher gear.

(Timing was done waiting the last 2k miles, and it was misfiring before timing as well like this. So I don’t think the timing is the issue, as in my VAG all the values are within b6 s4 spec.)

I’m not sure if I go ahead and replace the Red (positive) wire for my battery, and then see what goes from there? If I should check my catalytic convertors, or wha should I check next?

And is there an easier way to check for clogged catalytic convertors on the B6 s4? Thank you for the help in advance!!

reddit.com

u/50ug — 17 days ago