r/transmissionbuilding

Just pulled my 4l60 about to start rebuild. Is this normal casting marks or is this a crack??

I don’t seem to have the accumulator piston spring laying around I am 99% sure I haven’t misplaced it and I suspect it wasn’t in there to begin with but I could be wrong. Is this a serious issue or just brush it off? Thanks

Finally started to work on my 1992 c1500. Bought it knowing the trans was going to need work. It didn't have reverse and would only stay in low gear. Now that I'm starting to take it apart I found the TV cable had snapped off inside the hose. So I bought a new one (Napa# ATP 17909), and installed it on the hook coming out of transmission, then adjusted it. (I will note that the adjustment ratchet went all the way out and maxed out before fully WOT, had my partner press the pedal in the truck, while I depressed the D-button). Then I reattached the shifter rods and and reinstalled the drive shaft, and reconnected the two electrical connectors (2-pin and 4-pin) on the side of transmission, I wanted to test it while the truck is on jack stands so wheels can spin.

New Problem: Now It has forward in every gear even reverse, the only exception being park it actually does stop everything and hold. What happened? Also does this indicate other damage or did I do something wrong when installing the cable?

i'm buying a 2005 GMC Sierra with a 4l60 transmission the current owner says the last person rebuilt it and tuned it for towing has anybody else done this and is this accurate?

When I put it in reverse the truck lurches forwards a little bit and then stops and won’t go backwards at all, found some clutch material in the fluid and has been overheating very quickly, could it be a band adjustment or a clutch that was eaten?

Just curious if this piece is safe to run first rebuild and there was definitely water in the trans at some point

Hello there, I want to thank everyone who would be reading this post and for their time in replying.

I'm seeking your feedback / opinion on my Daihatsu Terios 2010 - 7 seater rear wheel drive 4 speeds automatic, Engine: 3SZ, 1495 cc (1.5L)

In the past 2 weeks my car has been having rough reverse, and lag when descending from the 4th gear to the 3rd gear while going forward at 80.mph

-Reverse Problem: Car would completely not go backwards when on (R), something it would go but very very slowly and sometimes it would reverse normally and sometimes it won't go backwards at all, when pressing the gas it would make knocking sounds from the transmission and struggle hard to actually move backwards and it won't even move normally it would be slower than normal and the engine would get louder trying to reverse the car.

The noise it makes when reversing only occurs on (R), when pressing the gas it's like the car is resisting to go backwards and then when it does, it's like a very very hard gear shift with a knock and shake. (Nosies won't come unless i press the gas paddle on (R) the harder i press the louder it gets and the more it shakes and knocks, car wouldn't move backwards if i didn't press on the gas paddle).

-Going Forward: the car would struggle to descend from 4th gear to 3rd gear (sometimes), it's like it will shit to 3rd gear but get stuck on a high rpm for a few seconds until it goes to 2nd gear as i am slowing down, and overall it seems that the car is accelerating in a much more slower rate then normal.

Then while i was driving ones the car seemed to stop accelerating while going past 40, so i stopped the car for a few minutes and placed it on (P) then moved again to (D) and it was back to normal, two days later while driving the car same thing happened but this time it wouldn't go forward at all or it was going forward very very slowly, was barley able to take it to a mechanic, he then recommended a special transmission oil that he said might help with my car problems, after adding it.. the car moved forward for a couple of minutes and then stopped moving completely, it wouldn't go forward or backwards the slightest, he then opened the gearbox to check on things that's when he found a lot of dirt and mud/sand inside the gearbox, he cleaned the area and closed it back, adding new gear oil and the car worked again with the same previous symptoms except now it moves forward normally, i drove it like that for about a weak until two days ago where it stopped going forward and backwards at all again.

Notes:

1. a video will be attached of what the gearbox looked like when he opened it to clean it.
2. The mechanic is only a mechanic by experience and he's not a fully qualified mechanic he has never studied car mechanics, All the mechanics in the country I'm staying at is like that.
3. Throughout this whole ordeal the reverse problem was always there and never went away.

The mechanics that I have spoken to and The car dealership said that I have to replace the entire transmission system because all of them are incapable of fixing complicated stuff inside the transmission.

Experienced car mechanics please tell me what do you think the issue is and whether or not should I actually replace the transmission I'm not sure what the problem is, is it the clutches or is it the solenoids/sensors.

Why would the car move forward normally again after the gearbox cleaning but then stop again after a week?

If i will replace the transmission what signs should i be looking for in a used transmission to make sure i am not getting scammed and buying a worn out transmission?

Feel free to ask any questions regarding the car.

>!UPDATE: i tried to see if the car would drive again and this is what happened

Upon turning on the car, a wheezing/hissing noise would come from the gearbox/transmission, it's not very loud and it's not low either, after a couple of minutes the noise will start to die down but eventually it will still be there but very faint tho much quieter from when first turned on

The car would drive for a few minutes after starting it on first gear before completely stopping again, the car doesn't want to shift past the first gear or stay on it for more then a few minutes then it would very slowly slow down until it reaches complete stop and stops moving or shifting again, i tried 3 times to turn it on and off each with 15 break in between and it's seems whenever the car is cold as soon as i turn it on it would drive for a few minutes and then stop, it won't shit gears and go at (20~30 speed max).!<

This is the trans pump off a 4l60e that suffered from mild heat damage. Could this be related? And should I replace it?

how fucked am i?

2008 Dodge charger v6 3.5L 4D SE

Just got a 2002 mustang v6 4r70w to put in my 71 cougar with a stock 351c 2v with a manual shift kit. I disasembled the transmission and i dont yet know what everything is but from what i do know everything looms alright. Looking for advice as to how far i should rebuild this, replace clutches frictions bands bushings...

Mustang had unknown mileage aswell. Any help is appreciated

Portland, Oregon, USA.
Working with a local transmission and torque converter rebuilder to restore rusty converters and parts so they can be painted and reused. They usually use a wire brush on a lathe to clean these, then they break them open at the welded middle and rebuild the inside, then re weld it together, paint and install .
The laser is able to work faster and get the part cleaner without smearing the metal around the welds.
I’m just getting started with laser restoration and I’m looking to find more clients that see its value. Around here, it’s a pretty new concept so educating the market is one of the challenges.
How do you convince the coach and horses driver that a car is what he really needs? He already has a dependable ride.
There’s where I am.
Any advice is appreciated.

So here i was with my foot in it. At 3500 i loose drive and the 6.2 goes to fuel cut.

After stopping I can rev it and it will move a tiny bit and there is a whine. I would think it is a torque converter rather than a pump, but not sure. Fluid doesn't small burnt and it was shifting perfect all day.

I'll put a pressure gauge on it tomorrow, but would like input what it typically is.

I really don't want to build another 700r4/4l60

My case does look a little beat and we had to fight to get the low roller out a little kinda seems like a no brainer easy security but I'm unsure.

At the finish line and alittle confused. When I took the transmission apart I had 8 checkballs, and one was larger than the rest but I was unsure if it was above or below the separator plate. I can see that the plate has taken a beating where the one checkball goes in the case so I’m leaning on the larger one going there. But I’m also hearing some shift kits come with a larger checkball for the spot closest to the oil pump. I do have a checkball seat repair kit coming too for peace of mind but I just wanted to ask what experienced builders think.

I rebuilt my a340h. The inside was very sludged up, and I was having issues with not building pressure when in gear before the rebuild (I assumed from the sludge).

I cleaned everything and replaced all the clutchs and steels and gaskets. Rebuilt the valve body and installed it back in the truck. It shifted fine for a little bit but started to have the same issue when put into gear a few times it will stop trying to build pressure.

I removed the pan and found the filter is clogged again, so I ordered another. I'm planning on installing it this week. It seemed weird that it would build pressure at the start but not all the time. I was wondering if there is anything else it could possibly be or anything I should do along with the filter. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Just bought this used 2013 Nissan Sentra S. Just had to replace the two front control arms and got all new tires with an alignment. Anyone know what this sound could be?