r/tradclimbing

Image 1 — Cornflake Crack, NC
Image 2 — Cornflake Crack, NC

Cornflake Crack, NC

My friend got some pics of me on a super fun climb I sent yesterday, cornflake crack at the north side of looking glass in NC! I unfortunately only had time for the first pitch, but looking forward to getting back on for the second.

The crux is a traverse that is pretty close to the ground and can cause a lot of rope drag. So I tied into both rope ends. I don’t trust many people to belay me with an ATC but luckily an expert belayer was at the crag. I untied one end at a stance and was switched to a gri-gri

I’m trying to up my crack game by climbing at least 2/3 of the badass cracks at northside, to prep me for Squamish this summer. Really hard to find crack practice around here. Any southeastern crack suggestions in the 5.11 range would be welcome! (Shade only please)

u/Good_Light_304 — 14 hours ago

Block leading tips and tricks for speed and safety

Hi, my partner and I are wanting to do some multipitchs this summer but she can't trad lead yet. For context we want to do some big multipitchs in Wales, UK, where there are no bolted anchors.

I've multipitched before but usually swinging leads with a rope belay (the norm here in the UK) but this obviously isn't ideal for block leading. What are your top tips for speed and efficiency at the belay while block leading?

Side note: if I was to buy 7M of cordelete (and tie it in a loop with a double fisherman's) for building a master point anchor, would you recommend 7mm or 6mm? Thanks :)

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u/Adept-Catch-7113 — 15 hours ago

Accomplished my first Trad Lead on Captain's Log 5.4 at Peterskill, Sunday, May 4th, 2026. Marking exactly 8 months since I first stepped into a bouldering gym on September 4th, 2025, at 41 years old and learned what a V0 was.

What a rad 8 months I've had. Onwards and upwards 🙌

u/scarecrowplanet — 8 days ago

Perceive my rack

My rack that I bring out with me. Give me ur thoughts

The 0.3 C4 has since been replaced with a 0.3 Z4.

Trad pro that doesn’t make the pic/make it out anymore: larger tricams up to the big white/big green tricams, miscellaneous nuts

u/shining-on — 4 days ago

This is my TRS anchor from yesterday. I went overkill because I wanted to try as many things as I could and use a lot of gear. I was curious if anything here looks like it could be improved in any way! So please pick this apart.
The orange climbing rope is just clipped to the bowline so I can have the rope run down, touch the ground, and then come back up so I can keep the pile on top of the cliff.
I cloved into a bolt on one of the anchor strands since it was there, because why not. It’s the only bolt. The other has been chopped by a loco dude around here.

EDIT: Thank you everyone for the feedback! Sounds like this is NOT standard practice and not something most of you would have crafted, but it is also safe and there isn’t much wrong with it. I apologize for the crap photo with rope running everywhere to confuse the viewer. I will totally be hitting the books as it’s been a minute since I’ve flipped through John longs book. Give me a little while and I’ll be back ;) don’t you worry. But seriously thanks everyone for pitching in. Glad some of you had a laugh as well!

u/PhilosopherHungry235 — 9 days ago

Optimizing a double-rack for cam sizes

We're all familiar that cams vary in size from company to company. Cam-parison.com illustrates that pretty well.

I think I found a pretty good mix of cams and sizes to optimize the most overlap between sizes for the companies I like to use (BD, WC, DMM, totem). For example, a red dragon is the smallest red cam, and the wild Country friend is the biggest red cam.

EDIT: I posted the wrong picture, but it's basically what I wanted. I use a blue totem, not a BD C4 0.3, and BD #3, not the dragon. Here's the link to what I found to be what I think is optimal.

u/i12drift — 4 days ago

Leader and follower each have a handful of nuts, a handful of alpine draws and a couple of quick draws

Charlize Theron has a #2 and #4 metolius ultralight, and later we see a BD C4 #2.

Each climber is seen using daisy chains to go indirect

Gates in or gates out? Why not both?

Belaying a wintery multipitch route with a black diamond ATC - interesting choice…

u/No-Buffalo-9488 — 11 days ago

Hoping to open this up to discussion. I have been trad climbing for about five years including big walling and guiding. I don’t think that I placed a single nut last season, that was not on an aid climb. They take longer for a second to clean. You have minimal weight savings because they require a draw. In places where only a nut will fit, I just look higher or lower a few feet. Please share your thoughts.

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u/QuesadillasAreYummy — 8 days ago

Just heard Cedar Wright on a new podcast and it’s a good one. He gets into Yosemite / speed / decision-making, then pivots into why he got hooked on paragliding and how it compares to climbing (fear + flow)

I keep thinking of his reflection on almost getting seriously crippled from a freak accident at home, and how that messes with the whole “risk” conversation. Like… you can do everything “safe” and still get wrecked.

Also: woah, he drops this line about how Honnold basically ruined free soloing for the rest of us. It made kind of sense. Cedar is deep and funny at the same time in his own unique way

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u/MaleficentFloor822 — 8 days ago

Belayer is about 90lbs lighter than me. Used the horizontal crack at the bottom to prevent her from launching if I fell. The nuts would not have moved from an upward pull. The rope was not clipped into the bottom sling as pictured while I was climbing.

u/BigBundaEnjoyer — 11 days ago

Babes with hard to fit feet (currently wearing HV Butora Alturas) What Shoes have you found that work for long multi pitch/alpine days

I have very small (sz 36) but thick feet leaving me with unbearable pressure points on the top of my foot with most climbing shoes (La sportiva and Scarpa DO NOT work for my feet)

I love how my Butoras fit but the quality is SO bad- rubber is garbage and needs to be resoled within a couple months of regular wear- sitching comes off, etc.id like to lean in to a more sustainable shoe.

Ive tried on a couple pairs of Tenayas - but they dont offer any model with ankle protection.

Anyone have similar issues and find a decent longer lasting shoe than butora?

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u/Oneiroscopy — 1 day ago
▲ 75 r/tradclimbing+1 crossposts

I am currently mostly sport climbing, as you can probably tell from the draw lengths and the cams and brassies being very fresh.

The first trad gear I got were the alu nuts. I use them to fill in the sparse bolting common in my country. The blue offset has already saved me from a ground fall. I later got the hexes (30% off) when I have encountered placements too large for the nuts.

I am looking to expand my skill set into proper trad this season. So when I received my OT pay, I decided to get the cams and brass nuts I have been eyeing for a year.

How would you rate this rack? I'm looking forward to adding some wear to the fresh gear.

u/CoffeeList1278 — 13 days ago

Looking for some gear recommendations (NOT BUILDING A RACK)

Hi all,
Looking for some various gear recommendations. As the title explicitly mentions.. I’m not building my first rack.. 😂

Recommendations I’m looking for: helmet, pants, backpack, and a hat. Mostly for the context of multi pitch trad!

For helmet, I currently have the Petzl Boreo. While it’s an ok helmet, I find my head always gets soooo sweaty in it. It’s one of the first things that causes me to overheat. Plus, I have the helmet maxed out.

What I’m looking for: I’d like to find a helmet that offers a good balance between protection, and ventilation. My petzl boreo shows heavy scratches all across the top and sides.. so apparently I’m rubbing my head across rocks and shit so it needs to be moderately durable. Ideally I’d like to be able to wear a thin hat under it for sunny days too

For pants: right now I’m wearing Prana Zion’s, and a thin pair of Kuhls that are maybe hiking oriented. The pranas are great but can be a bit cold with wind exposure. Love the Kuhls but they are not very durable and I have a bunch of holes in them.

What I’m looking for: open to any recommendations on durable climbing pants. I’m not often in cold weather, but need something slightly warmer than the Pranas (I’ll be using these a lot for the summer tho)

For a backpack: currently I have a very worn mountain hardware camp 4 20l. Great back, a little big and maybe a bit heavy for alpine objectives.

What I’m looking for: something with a good balance of durability, and pack ability. Mostly I just need to be able to pack my approach shoes, some water, and a snack or two. I do find myself scraping by backpack in various chimneys, walls, etc. so it needs to have moderate durability but nothing excessive.

Lastly, looking for a hat I can wear under my helmet. Summer is approaching and I need something for the sunny days. Currently, I don’t have any hat.

What I’m looking: a breathable hat that is comfortable under the helmet. As mentioned early, I sweat balls through my head so needs to be airy. I’ve been eyeing the Mammut Aenergy mesh. Open to suggestions.

Let me know what you’d recommend!!

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u/analogshooter — 4 days ago

Me and my Roomate have slowly been accumulating gear, and have been buying cams etc. for cheap whenever we have the chance. Got a bunch of stuff for free as well. Have a pretty good mix of new stuff and older, but overall feel like we are in a pretty solid spot to get on most of things we want to here in CO, but definitely feel like we could add some more smaller stuff, but would love to hear your thoughts.

u/ashakory — 8 days ago

I currently have two worn out shoes that I need to resole. In the meantime, I'd like to get something geared towards big wall/crack. Currently climbing outdoor sport to 5.11 and got my first taste of Squamish last year. Completely hooked and finishing a double rack now!

My main shoe now is the Scarpa Instinct VS. The fit on these is great, and love the heal/toe hook ability. I might just have them fit too tight, but they feel terrible in crack.

My backup shoe is the La Sportiva Finale. The sensitivity is so good, it almost negates the fact they're not aggressive. I would like something that edges a little better than these. I haven't used them enough in crack to have a good feel.

I see a lot of people suggesting TC pro. I would have never made this post if they didn't feel so awkward. Do they take a lot more to break in? Any recommendations or questions welcome.

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u/SmileyNew123 — 7 days ago
▲ 53 r/tradclimbing+2 crossposts

After a huge amount of effort, I’ve secured a reliable way to bring Krukonogi gear into the United States.

The first shipment has already nearly sold out, but I still have a limited number of front points for Petzl crampons available. If you’ve been looking to upgrade your setup, now’s the time.

I’m also officially opening preorders for the next shipment—spots are limited.

Images (2–3): Krukonogi FL11 (A TN) Front Points
https://www.climbingbooty.net/product-page/krukonogi-fl11-a-tn-front-points-pair

Preorder List & Contact:
climbingbooty.net/contact-4

P.S. Not listed yet: Krukonogi just finished their first picks for the Hydras (image 6). Two styles available — PH00 (A, TN) and PHS00 (A, TN).

u/climbingbooty — 11 days ago