
Does this radon result look suspicious ?
This was for a home inspection. It drops off a cliff half way through the test. Seems like someone messed with the setup

This was for a home inspection. It drops off a cliff half way through the test. Seems like someone messed with the setup
Location : Ohio
48 hour test had average of 6.4
Partially finished basement with crawlspace that has builder’s moisture barrier
We have gotten 2 different quotes so far of $3300 and $3100 each with 3 extraction points. We are a little sticker shocked because all our research said it was about 1-2k.
Both companies said the price is high because of the sub-membrane they have to install to create the suction (the pump is 1500 and the membrane is about 1500).
Is this accurate? Should we continue to get more quotes?
Hi!
First time homeowner here installing a vapor barrier in my crawl space to passivrly mitigate radon levels in our home (1.4-2.6 avg on first floor). I'm going to be installing it myself and am trying to decide between two products that have a pretty steep price difference.
One is the Stego 15mil barrier wrap at roughly $500 for the space we need to cover. The other is Pango wrap which has the added benefit of sealing against termites. I live in a wooded area so its appealing but roughly $1700 and it's meant to go under the slab during construction, which we obviously wouldn't be doing.
Link to the Pango:
https://www.stegoindustries.com/pango-wrap-termite-vapor-barrier
Anyone have any experience with these products or know if there's any downside to using the Pango product over dirt without a slab going overtop?
Any advice or recommendations in general about products or the process is very much welcome! I will likely be hiring a company to put in a mitigation system eventually but want to do the vapor barrier myself and see how much of a difference it makes.
Thanks!
Our inspector pushed the radon test hard. We said ok but then the results came back high and now we need a mitigation system. I’m wondering if they just wanted extra money or if it’s legit. The test device looked kinda cheap too.
The meter was placed in the living area (basement level) and it was undisturbed for 7 days (24” off the ground). Spikes are around 8:30-11AM, and the dips are the exact opposite. 9-11:30PM.
Before you say to install something, it’s a rental and the landlord was informed about 10 days ago. I haven’t heard anything but apparently the ticket was submitted and accepted on their end.
Edit: I did the math, since it's something I'm reasonably good at, and it's far more clear than 'probably fine', 'not the worst', and other subjective summaries. Based on the lifetime risk matrix, which shows about a 0.1% chance for non-smokers to get lung cancer over a lifetime exposure of 70 years at 6 pCi/L, that translates to about 0.0014% added chance per -year- of exposure. A few weeks is something like 0.0001%
SE Wisconsin. We've been getting utterly dumped on with rain and the ground is super saturated. The area under my slab got way more saturated than it ever has before due to a pump not getting power for a day or so, and even caused some small puddles under my carpet (terrible idea by former owner) that are now dry. The unfinished part of the slab is very slowly drying out, even with two dehumidifiers running (finished + unfinished space).
My pCi/L which has stayed very consistently between 0.3 and 1.0 in the basement for 99.99% of the last few years but is currently reading about 6.0 on the first floor for the last few days. Opening windows for a couple hours gets the pCi down to safer levels and then it creeps back up over night when they're closed. My radon system is currently reading about 2 on the manometer when its normally closer to 1.
I know this should go back to normal once it can finally dry out... but it's April. Does anyone have any experience in how long to expect this to take? The technician in this post said late summer, but I don't trust that perspective coming from someone trying to make a sale.
Furthermore, I also see posts (again, from someone trying to make a sale, i think) talking about groundwater being able to permanently change the geology under your slab so that re-mitigation is necessary... I have little kids, and I don't want them breathing in toxic air for months while I 'wait it out' to see.
I can call the company that did the mitigation years ago, but I expect them to use fear tactics to make a sale as well.
Will be sleeping in basement bedroom in new house. Even though 48h readings came back around 1.8, still want to be safe and see if it’s a real concern with a longer term test.
I had this system installed a couple months ago. It seems to work as intended as I have 2 air things monitoring levels (1 in basement, 1 on the second floor). I was initially concerned about aesthetics as usually it's recommended to run up past the roof and the installer suggested this would work unless I was going to sell the home. I wanted thoughts on if this is ok to run like this as I'm worried about reentrance and it's relatively noisy. Would routing above the roof be more ideal?
We will mitigate if we have to but I’m wondering if for anyone with an open sump pump hole in the basement - did sealing that reduce levels on its own? I think our basement level is around 8 (redoing tests now with a longer term one) and upstairs around 4 (lower when windows are open).
I’d feel better if it were under 2 upstairs with windows closed. Up to 4 in basement. With those goals is it reasonable a seal job could do the trick? Anyone have experience? Ty!
Location - Columbus, OH
The only issue I have with the location, it's near the drive way. Is there something I can purchase to make sure no one hits it with their car?
My non-smoker mom just got diagnosed with lung cancer, so of course I went into Google hell spiral and now I’m here. My partner and I just moved into a home a little a year and a half ago and don’t plan for this to be a forever home. We tentatively plan to move in about 4 years. Would it be worth it to invest in a radon mitigation system or should we save that for a longer-term home? We haven’t tested the levels yet, so is there a certain level where this is a no-brainer? Is it a no-brainer in general? I live in Las Vegas, if that changes anything.
It’s been years since I’ve lived with in my parents’ house, but we moved into that house when I was a teen and I lived there for 6 years before moving out, so I had been exposed to whatever amount that was potentially in that house for that long (I’m 30 now so that was a long time ago). Idk if this is something that builds up and just stays in your body even after you move away? (But who knows how much I’ve been exposed to in all the places I’ve lived since then.)
I also know that it’s probably not ~super~ expensive to do this, but it would still cost a bit of a chunk, and all the little updates/projects that we’ve been doing for our small, temporary home add up.
I figured that any lessened risk, even temporarily, can be worth it? But I also don’t want to jump the gun because of a Google spiral.
Thanks in advance for any wisdom/advice!
My Airconditioning and ductwork’s work runs through my crawl space that is dirt floor. We do have radon present. Could the AC be pumping it directly through the vents?
I don't believe this reading is right. Do you think it's right?
Edit: The weekly email from Airthings reports a radon level of 0.45 pCi/L (16.65 Bq/m³). It shows a min of 0.03 pCi/L (1.11 Bq/m³) for the week. A reading of 0.03 rounds to 0.0, so it's not actually zero. Today the display shows 0.4 pCi/L (14.8 Bq/m³).
I recently professionally encapsulated my crawlspace and later installed a Radon system (RadonAway RP145) for radon and terrible crawlspace soil gas odor post-encapsulation. It’s helped significantly, but I still have an odor in the room furthest from the fan. My radon levels are low (usually under 0.5), but the smell correlates with the minor spikes in that room (0.6 to 1+).
The house is a two story colonial with hard clay soil. The fan pulls from the garage slab and the crawlspace. I think the garage slab is "stealing" all the suction, leaving no vacuum for the far end of the house where the smell is. My manometer shows 0.5”.
I want to DIY swap the RP145 for a more powerful RP265 to avoid having contractors back inside the house (immunosuppressed family member).
What should I be worried about besides backdrafting? I know how to test the gas water heater in the garage for backdrafting with a smoke pen, but are there other risks to "over-fanning" a house? The garage water heater shares a chimney with a gas furnace there. The other gas furnace is on the attic. No other gas appliances.
Does a fan upgrade actually work for localized odors, or is a second suction point from my original fan to the further location the only real cure?
This may get a bit long, so please bear with me or skip it if not interested.
In short, I'm interested in ambient Rn-222 adsorbed on activated charcoal (AC). In a previous experiment, I simply left a tray of powdered AC in a room for a few days and measured it, but the activity was rather low. This time I constructed a “sampling device”. I placed 45 grams of granulated AC (much less messy to work with) in a metal container drilled from both sides and capped with some non-woven fabric. I placed it on a laptop cooling pad to force air through it, and set a timer to power it on a 6 hours on-2 hours off schedule. The first image shows the sampler (I know, the drilling is sloppy). I collected Rn for 24 days, moving the sampler to a different room once every 3-4 days. After that, the AC was transferred into LDPE zip-lock bags and measured with Radiacode 103G for approx. 75 hours. The image shows one of the bags after 75 hours of measurement, just taken out of the shield. The recorded parameters are outlined in the third image. For those who have followed my previous posts, the method is known. In short I record time, the whole sample activity, and this time, the count of Pb-214 peak at 352 keV. From the count data I extract the activity through a polynomial fit and determine half life for both the whole sample and from the fit. The assumption is that Pb-214 is in secular equilibrium with much longer living Rn-222.
I'd say, the results are not bad. Both methods give slightly shorter half-live of Rn-222 (3,82 days). The main reason IMO is some Rn-222 desorbtion during the measurement. Although the bags are sealed, Rn can slowly diffuse through LDPE.
Part II could be found here: https://www.reddit.com/r/radon/comments/1sn8im2/ambient_rn222_adsorbed_on_activated_charcoal/
In short, I kept the sample from part II and remeasured it after 7 and 13 days respectively. The idea was that when Rn-222 decays, the sample activity and x-ray fluorescence will decrease, allowing to see the elusive Pb-210 peak at 46.5 keV better. This time I used the Radiacode 103 (for the main experiment the 103G was used) because its lower energy response is better suited for this.
I thing I got it.