r/led

I've got a campervan I'm wiring 12v 3W LED lights into. There are four touch lights that are individually dimmable by touching and holding each light's surround. They are wired in parallel to a 12v LiFePO4.

When all the lights are on full brightness, they do not flicker.

When just one light is on minumum brigtness it does not flicker.

When one light is on with brightness less than 100% and any other combination of lights is turned on, the dimmed lights flicker to an extent that it's unpleasant to be in the space.

I've wired in a dummy load in parallel (tried a 10W and 20W incandescent bulb), and it made a negligible difference.

I have also tried using an independent 12v DC mains power supply to rule out the battery.

I've been doing some reading up and found that this may be solved by using low pass lc filters.

Would this be appropriate?

Would I want one at each light, or one overall at the start of the run near the battery? Please link me to what you think would be right.

Do you have other/alternative suggestions?

I'm building a travel trailer, and powering the electrical system with an 8kWh LiFePo4 battery. It's 24v nominal, but actually 29.2v when fully charged.

How much of a problem will that be for 24v LEDs? Some will be strip lights, and others will be puck lights. Do I need to put a resistor inline, or use a voltage converter to drop to 24v?

It's been a few months since I started this project, but I would like some help to finish it. I am trying to create a circuit that would allow me to use a batteries to turn on and off a blacklight strip. The "difficult" part for my project is that I also want to use a photoresistor sensor to have it only light up during nighttime. I initially tried using either a 9volt or 3 double AA batteries, but I may try a wireless battery pack, but that's for the future. I asked some acquaintances and one said I may need to add a transistor or something similar to my circuit, and I tried that with no luck. If I bypassed the sensor that I'm using (using just the battery for power) then the lights turn on just fine. I have linked the blacklight strip I am using. I also attached a picture of how I have the circuit soldered, but I don't think I messed anything up. Any and all feedback would be appreciated. Thank you for your time.

Hi,

First time LED user looking to set up 6 strips around the ceiling in my basement and sync them with music with LedFX. I have procured one strip, a controller, and a PSU to do proof-of-concept and successfully got one strip up and running. I was hoping someone would kindly look over my list and plan and let me know if there are any glaring issues, especially on the power end.

Strips are BTF Lighting SK6812s, 5-meter strips at 300 LEDs.

For PSUs I was planning to use 2x LRS-200-5, each one powering three strips.

For controllers, I will use 2x MagWLED-1, one for each three-strip grouping.

For power, the PSU has 3x + and 3x – terminals, so my intention was each strip would run directly to the PSU using 12 AWG cabling.

At each strip, use a splitter to power inject into both ends of the LED strip. So essentially each strip would be like, thin LED black cord into a wago inline connector, 12awg black cord to a 3-conductor splicing connector, same on other side of strip, then third conductor runs back to PSU, repeat for red wires, repeat for all strips. Strips connect to each other with their included connectors.

Controllers get synced.

So in sum I would have:

• 6x BTF Lighting SK6812 (1800 LEDs)
• 2x MagWLED-1
• 2x LRS-200-5
• 12 AWG black cabling
• 12 AWG red cabling
• 24x inline splicing connector (wago 221-2401)
• 12x 3-conductor splicing connector (wago 221-413)

I also will get muzata v-shaped channels/diffusers to run them around the ceiling and 3m VHB tape to mount them to the channels.

One thing I don’t know if whether the MagWLED-1 board pulls power from its USB connector when connected to both a USB PSU and to the first strip, because if I have just the USB PSU plugged in, it shows the power negotiation light, but if I have both USB and the strip connected to a PSU via its injection cables, it doesn’t show that light, and removing the USB power supply with the PSU plugged into injection cables it still works as expected and shows a green light, so does anyone know if I should keep the USB PSU connected to the controller, or no?

Thanks so much for helping out a noob, just looking to create a fun dance area for my toddler :-)

I bought this 24V LED driver from what seems like a reputable supplier in Canada (CDNLUX OTM-E60-24). When the LEDs are turned off the driver makes this whining/clicking sound. It's not very loud, the video was recorded with my phone right next to the LED driver, but it's loud enough to be annoying since this is in a bedside light fixture.

It's completely silent when the LEDs are on. I've checked for shorts and I don't think anything is wrong with the wiring.

I've read about coil whine with switching mode power supplies when the load is off. Is this just a normal thing that power supplies do?

First time building a DIY LED setup, so I appreciate any input from the community!

https://reddit.com/link/1sq3wqu/video/rjl7imt5g7wg1/player

Hi everyone,

I’m completely new to working with LEDs and could really use some expert advice for a project I'm putting together.

I need to run about 30 meters of LED strips. I’m currently planning to use standard DC voltage strips that come in 5-meter rolls and are about 10mm wide.

The Problem:

When I asked a local shopkeeper for advice, he mentioned that a single 5m strip draws about 6 amps. His solution was to sell me 6 separate plug-in adapters (one for each strip).

That really doesn't work for my setup. I need this to look clean and act as one continuous 30-meter piece. Having 6 bulky power bricks plugged in along the run completely defeats the purpose and will look incredibly messy.

My Questions:

1. Single Power Supply: What is the best way to power all 30 meters from a single, hidden power supply? What specs (Voltage/Amperage) should I be looking for to handle a load this size safely?

2. Voltage Drop: I’ve heard that if I just solder 30 meters of strips end-to-end, the lights at the end will be super dim. How do I actually wire this to keep the brightness even across the entire run without ruining the seamless look?

3. 12V vs 24V: Would it make my life significantly easier to use 24V strips instead of 12V for a run this long?

I'd appreciate any beginner-friendly explanations, wiring tips, or specific product recommendations you might have. Thanks in advance!

Hello friends! My grandma's old under the counter lamp finally passed away. We're trying to get a replacement but after some research it's very clear that this company does not make this model anymore (if it's even still around). Plus the only other one I can find is a warehouse overflow that's 40 bucks for us. I tried replacing the bulb already AND I've done trouble shooting for other elements of it. It's just fried and done, sadly.

There's a lot of very well done custom work that went into running the wires around many kitchen cabinets. It also connects to two other of the same Utilitech lights so it all runs in a nice line. We would rather not dismantle all that.

My thought is to just get a new light that has the exact same C7PW plug type. That way we can just plug in and not have to change a thing otherwise. I'd also have a new model to use if/when the other two lights fizz out too.

MODEL: Utilitech GU9712L-T5 WHI, GU9724L-T5 WHI, GU9733L-T5 WHI Fluorescent Light Instructions

ONLINE MANUEL: https://manualzz.com/doc/17547102/utilitech-gu9712l-t5-whi--gu9724l-t5-whi--gu9733l-t5-whi-...?ct=82327fab03e0363f%3A0aa8c59b6388397b0168c32e5eb04f

PLUG TYPE: C7PW polarized connector

So I'm looking to see if there's any 12 inch long under cabinet lights anyone knows about that could reasonably replace it? If not that, then any good battery powered lights you'd recommend?

Thank you!

I wanna get clarification If I am doing this right or not.
We have 24v pixel tape, RGBW running along a platform.
We are running it on Advatek Pixlite Mk2 Decoder.
It has terrible dimming curves running at 8bit.

We would love to try changing the Tape to 16bit
With research it seems we need to change the pixel protocol.
The only two protocols I have found that are supported by the Mk2, 16bit and RGBW were MY9291 and USC8904. When we change the decoder to either of these protocols the tape seems to not work or works in strange fashion.
WS2814 is the protocol we currently have them in that works correctly.

We are running the Pixel tape with and EOS Console. Each pixel is patched as an individual RGBW Channel.
But even when we pull up each pixel by address it acts strangely. mostly pull up White and red Together and Blue and green together, etc.

Is there something else I need to be aware of, to research in our set up or change in settings to make this work. If anyone knows pixel tape well enough. Please let me know if there is anymore info I need to provide to help clarify this question.