r/eBikeBuilding

Hello everyone and thanks for the help in advance. I have an OEM ebike 250w 36v 10.3A and i wanted to upgrade to something powerful. In my head, i wanted to try to keep the old battery ( even if really bad and lasts 15 miles already on 250w PAS) and then I considered to buy a 36v 500w. But because i thought was not enough upgrade, i finally ended up buying a 1500w 48v to downgrade to 36v from the controller (even having knowledge about some speed/power limit).

Now, I assembled everything, first 2/3miles on 36v is fine, after that, the screen (SW900) gives me error 06, which probably means low voltage due to the battery. So I decided to move it to 24v instead. The bike is flying, gets the right watt with the right energy, the problem is, even in 36v or 24v the battery never drops down, which doesn't give me the change to understand the capacity left.

With 24v at some point, the bike turned off and the battery start to blink red and blue, no idea what it means (pinnacle e bike) but even from unplugged from the e bike, it keeped blinking, i had to put on charge to see the blink stop after 20 second and start to charge.

Now, starting saying i know neither solution are great for the hub. But is there any issue, on setting the sw900 on 24v using a 36v battery? And what do you think that blinking mean? Overheat? Undervolt? Battery empty?

Would you suggest to buy a 48v battery to resolve straight away the issue, or try to investigate if it could.be some thing else (like faulty motor)? Even if the symptoms are pretty clear.

Thanks guys for your help

Trying to get my 3dprint cnc milled in aluminum but when I send it through an online stl -> step the manufacturer says they cannot make it due to broken surfaces. they can't "print " aluminum but can print in stainless 319.

it Prints perfectly on my adventure pro 5m, slices fine, tried in freecad to export it to step but they don't accept it. I literally don't see what they're complaining about.

I have files and photos upon request and really want this in aluminum - anyone know a cheap / decent aluminum 3d printing service or can tell me what's broken on my files would be greatly appreciated.

I'm interested in starting building and maintaining my own batteries. What do I need to do that equipment wise and are there tutorial videos on how to?

Cheers

I’m thinking of installing a 1000w 48v kit on my bike but I was just wondering if anyone has any experience, are hub motors safe for off-road? Not like big jumps, but just riding on trails and dirt roads. I heard vibrations can cause lots of problems.

Potete indicarmi dove posso trovare un motore per e-bike qs 205 5000watt 26*4.00.

Alibaba o contatto diretto !!!

Grazie a tutti

Hi Everyone!

My girlfriend has "inherited" my old EbikeSpecial eFirenze 20" folder from me about 2 years ago, and she's been having a blast with it.

She loves the form factor, which is perfect for a petite woman weighting 48kg, I've did some necessary upgrades over the years: hydraulic brakes, Shimano Altus rapid trigger shifter, etc.

An issue she had with the super basic controller (generic controller with G51 screen) was that PAS was very erratic and since she doesn't have much mass, whenever PAS decided to engage, the bike essentially JUMPED, which was super dangerous when we were exploring on some bike trails in Croatia.

So after we got back from our trip, I've started rebuilding the bike. I've first bought a KT sine wave controller + display + sensors set. Imitation torque is far better than the generic controller was, takeoff is soft, easy to control.

However, there's some weird buzzing that keeps occurring at random with the KT controller. I've replaced the controller but it happens with the new one too. It seems to be related to the P1 parameter.

What I did for troubleshooting:

• Built a test harness and checked if all hall sensors and phase wires are well connected and the order is right.
• I've tested the Hall sensors in the motor
• I've tested P1 from 50 to 120 and settled with the one that made the motor run the best

My GF says that this is not a dealbreaker but I like to do quality work with my tinkering.

Recently I've seen that Lishui apparently makes controllers with torque sensors (T15, T17 and the likes) and I've been thinking of trying one out.

The system I'd like to integrate it with:

• "XOFO 7.820.100A5" 36V 250W hub motor (9 pin Julet plug)
• 36V battery in great condition
• hydraulic brakes with 2-pin brake cutoff signals
• BB size is a bit odd, BB83

The controller kit I've found:

• T15 or T17 BB83 torque sensor
• Lishui LSW1728-1-1F controller with S2 display
• (don't know what else I might need, maybe a throttle and compatible lights?)

Does anyone have any experience with these?

Ive been looking for a pretty nice e-bike to buy lately and my main thing is wanting an e-bike that actually looks like a normal bike and is relatively light. Once I found the Bonnell bikes, I immediately wanted one but they are sold out everywhere.

I plan on using it to go to work and cruise around my city but it's very hilly so I would need a little bit of power on it. I also noticed that the mx is kind of just a motor cycle that looks like a bike and that's not what I want. I still want some pedal assist that can get me to 20+ mph before trying to throttle. That's why I'm so interested in the SE but I guess it's super popular.

I don't know really anything but thought it'd be fun and I have the extra cash for it. If you guys can guide me in the right direction from frames to motors it would be great. Also I am looking to spend around 3k but not anymore than what the Bonnell SE already cost (4300) unless necessary.

Not sure if it matters either but I'm pretty tall so small bikes definitely won't work for me.

I am planning to build a 2000W electric bike using a 52V 30Ah battery sourced from Alibaba. The bike will be based on an older Diamondback XL frame.

One challenge I am considering is how this setup fits within Australian road laws. I have looked into ways to make the bike operate more like a standard pedal-assist e-bike, including:

• Limiting the speed to 25 km/h
• Reducing the motor’s current to lower power output
• Installing a pedal assist system (PAS) on the rear hub motor
• A short corded attachment throttle for quick detachment
• Cover all stickers with fake en15194 sticker

The goal is to create a bike that I can quickly change from cop proof on busy roads to not on empty roads

what will I need to consider before doing this? Thanks

So, I'm building from scratch a moped style bike. Kinda like this (I had Gemini generate a pic of the finished product from the frame drawing I did on Sketch Up). It'll be mid-drive with a ToSeven DM02 250w motor + alfine 8 igh in the rear. The idea is for it to be a mix of cargo and moped styled bike.

Anyways to give it more of the E-Bike vibe I want it to have rear (406)20x4 inch tires and front (451)22x3 inch tires. And while I did find tims that fit 3' tires they are the 406 standard. And while I did find 451 rims they only accept up to 2.125 tires.

Anyone got any idea where to look?

Thanks in advance.