Good morning everyone. My 2015 SE sprung a random and sudden leak yesterday and is now hemorrhaging coolant. I’m having a difficult time identifying the specific hose in order to get started on the repair. I’m hoping an extra set of eyes might help.
i recently started having this problem i went to get it checked out my battery is good starter is good does anyone else know what it could be from deeper in the engine or anything ? it does the same when i push to start inside i just wanted to get the click noise more clear
Took it to a shop because the red oil pressure light would come and go when driving . Same night all my oil leaked out . They replaced my oil pan the next day as it had a small crack. Then I got the car back it was still flashing the light right after on and off when I drove it to work . Same thing going home . So I left it in the driveway until he could check on it . When the next day comes , I tell him my engine isn’t sounding right and now that light is solid there . He tells me “ it’s just the sensor , drive it and let the oil circulate ( because maybe it’s running dry when all my oil leaked out ) . I said nah it’s not that my engine doesn’t sound this way he said it’s an older car so it’s normal but I knew it’s not . After that drove to AutoZone it had the light but drove there fine still sounded weird from the engine . When driving back i stopped at a light , when I tried to pull off after it was green I felt that the power wasn’t there at all because I know my car . Less than a min later rev dropped to 0 and im rolling with no power but the car has power because the dash stayed on , music stayed on , it can go in neutral , etc . I’ve had an issue where it wouldn’t go in neutral and that was the ground cable months ago this wasn’t the same . When it finally stopped in the middle of a intersection, it started smoking a lot so I jumped out , it was burning smoke white but not coolant or oil something was burning on the engine or electrical but electrical doesn’t make sense if the dash stayed on . I had to get pushed by the police . Called him right after he said he’d look at it . Went there today now 2 days later cause yesterday was closed , he said it’s electrics and if it is he’s not fixing it . I’m telling him no it’s not because I know my car once again , then we’re arguing and I tell him listen, I came to you to not go to small claims . He then says go to small claims . Am I wrong to go fuck that whole shop up ? Or better more mature way do I just take it thru to small claims . Either way im done with this car the money im putting in is equal to a payment every month since the year started . Somebody let me know , or at least a sign of what it may be so I can look my damn self
I recently made a post about my 2016 SXT 2.0L when it was throwing different evap codes every day. I replaced everything it told me to but it would still tell me it wasn’t fixed. I chose to ignore it and now I’m randomly getting a code saying my coolant temperature is too hot. I have replaced the thermostat and housing so I know that’s not the problem but when the light comes on my car could be cold right on startup. Or it can come on at random times but it stops reading my coolant temp and my radiator fan will kick on (even though it is definitely not too hot). The lightning bolt light will also come on which is my electronic throttle control. Also having no problems with that. My thought was the they were ghost codes from a bad battery/alternator but I just got them tested and both are fine. The light on the dash come and go randomly and the car runs perfectly so naturally I’m lost WHAT IS WRONG!!!?
help! does anybody knows where that cable connects to? My car is a dodge dart 2015
Two things:
Picture 1: I intermittently get a P0456 Small Evap Leak code, so was going in to preemptively swap my ESIM, and came across this leak after taking the wheel casing/splash guard off. This is where the fill hose connects directly to the fuel tank. Are there any easy DIY fixes for this? I've seen people say I can either JB Weld it where it's leaking if there's a crack, or replace the entire fuel tank, which is expensive and I prefer not to do that of course.
Picture 2: During my attempt at swapping the ESIM, I struggled for an hour trying to disconnect this connector, and broke the little blue locking pin (didn't get a pic of it after I broke it). Not sure what the next step is there since I can't get the connector off at all.
Overall an upsetting outcome to what should've been a quick ESIM swap job lol, so I appreciate any advice in advance.
Was driving , had low oil pressure light . It was from an oil leak on my pan , but I got it replaced yesterday and oil was there I’ve been checking . I did notice it sounded off though , from how it normally sounds . Was driving , accelerated a bit not pushed it ; then I noticed my power definitely wasn’t there . Less than a min after got to the next intersection accelerated a tiny bit and engine shut off completely, I tried to make the turn but it didn’t turn the car . I’m not sure what to do now really thinking about a lease at this point it’s something every month the same cost of a payment .
Has anyone replaced the clutch hydraulic hose? Looking for some insight on bleeding the system once it's changed. It seems pretty straight forward to replace.
This is on a 2014 2.4l rallye.
My Dodge star recently started making horrible noises in the front when I turned the wheel and it sounds very clunky in the front end. Could anybody tell me what this possibly could be?
Hey everyone just got this CarPlay wanted to share it with yall as it looks dope
https://www.carpodgo.com/products/mini?variant=52808626667825
My dart has quite a lot of miles (209k) you guys think I’m good to drive a little over a hour away? No check light engine or nothing but motor has been sound not the greatest latley
After turning off the car after a few mins it makes this errrrr noise. What is that???
Motor mount bolts snapped right off from what seems a failed motor mount which I replaced less than a year ago, now I'm stranded 1 hour away from home 😩. Anyone know what kind of bolts they are? Will try to repair tomorrow with new bolts just to be able to drive it home and replace once I get new part.
Is it normal for this part to leak in the center?
Need help finding a catalytic converter for my 2015 sxt 2.4l tried Chrysler and they want 3,000 for a new one
I recently bought a 2016 Dodge Dart SXT with the 2.0L engine. The 3rd day of having it the engine light came on with an EVAP code saying I needed a gas cap so I replaced it and had the code cleared. A week later it came back but this time the EVAP code was for my thermostat housing so I replaced that and the engine light went away. A few more days later the engine light came back and what do you know? Another Evap code this time calling for my gas cap again?!?
I figured I would replace me ESIM, so I did. The engine light went away and came back as another EVAP code a week later now saying I need to replace my ESIM.
Is there something I’m missing? Has anyone else had this problem? What could this be?
I don’t want to live with the engine light or ignore it. I want the problem solved
Last owner broke the connector for the multi air solenoid and tried to glue it back on what is the best course of action to fix this without replacing the whole unit?
Recently got a 2014 rallye and hadn’t any issues until about a 4 days ago. When I turn the car on the hvac system will turn on and the touch screen head until remains black, but my phone connects and I can play and listen to music with no problem there. I can control the volume with the steering wheel controls too. The screen will randomly come on whilst driving for a second then go black again. Anyone familiar with these symptoms? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you