r/climbingshoes

Split on the top of shoe

I have wide toes and both of my Unparallel Souped Up have now split at the top along the seam.

My toes feel pinched and I can feel my big toe knuckle pushing against the material but they aren't painful.

When I wear them on the wall the flex my toes the hole gets way bigger - see second image

Is this due to my shoe not matching my feet type, or a defect in the shoe, or bad technique? They could just be getting old I've had them for 8 months and climb 1 or 2 times a week indoors

Do you think I could repair them with some shoe goo?

I'm thinking of getting a pair of Scarpa Instinct VR because they have a bigger toe box.

Cheers

u/OmegaSnowden — 1 hour ago
▲ 3 r/climbingshoes+1 crossposts

Climbing Shoe Sizing Confusion

My street shoe size is 42.5. My La Sportiva Skwamas are also 42.5; they were extremely tight at first, and my feet would be in a lot of pain after every session. They finally broke in after about two months—the material stretched, and while they are no longer painful, they've become too loose for effective heel hooking. Because of that, I bought a pair of Scarpa Drago XTs in size 43, and they fit perfectly and comfortably. I really love the sensitive feel of this shoe, though I’m not entirely satisfied with the heel cup design. I’m currently climbing around the V6 level indoors. I often see people recommending downsizing by 1 to 2 full sizes, which leaves me very confused since my Drago XTs are actually 0.5 sizes **larger** than my street shoes! Am I missing something here?

reddit.com
u/Quiet-Question-6969 — 24 hours ago

Decision paralysis!

So I got some La Sportiva Testrossa’s (probably too early) they’re starting to get a bit worn and I want to save them by getting a new pair. (It’s just as economical to get a new pair as it is to resole currently)

There’s just so many options out there, I love the Testarossa’s, I liked the fit, but I just don’t know what to get to replace them.

I mostly indoor boulder and am looking for something relatively comfortable, any recommendations would be appreciated!

reddit.com
u/thickheartboi — 12 hours ago

La sportiva to scarpa

I've been thinking about switching from my skwama 39.5 to a drago xt but i dont know how sizes work to them since i cant find it in any store. I also have been using before katanas (40.5) tho they were a bit too comfy a bit large ish

reddit.com
u/Acceptable-Bunch-424 — 20 hours ago

Shaman vs zenist sizing and fit

I have the shaman in at UK size 10 (my street shoe size), they broke in reasonably quick and are quite comfortable, despite being stiffer than anything else I've worn, they're my main shoe for everything and I really like them.

Got a good deal on some unused zenists on ebay in a 10.5

I was shocked by how small they seem to fit. I expected the half size up to give me a bit more comfort, but initially they felt impossible to get on.

Just worn them around the house, and they've since becomes a lot easier to get on. Someone in a previous post of my mine here mentioned the zenist has a horrible break in period. I wondered what other people's experiences are.

Is there any chance of these easing up enough with use? They're just putting too much pressure on the toes right now.

reddit.com
u/Existing_Brother9468 — 20 hours ago

Solution Sizing

Hey guys,

I’ve bought sportiva solutions and I’m in pain…

Normally I wear a 42 size street shoe, so I bought 40,5 climbing shoes.

I never had any size problems with my tarantulas in the same size, just wanted something more downtun.

Have been wearing them for like two weeks- so maybe 5 sessions- and they still hurt so bad after a bit, mostly on the knuckles.

Is there anything I could do to stretch them out a bit more, or should I just take them off after every climb?

Some say to take a shower in them or put them in the oven…

Pls help 👉👈

reddit.com

Advice for painful big toe

I'm back to climbing after about 2 years off. After my 5.10 Pinks died, I got Scarpa Vapor V's which were snug but comfy - I was even comfortable another 2 half-sizes smaller, but was worried about cutting off my circulation. They seem to work well in the Gunks, but my big toe became so sore that I hesitated to weight my feet (not good for climbing!). I tried some runners' lube, which helped with abrasion, but not the pressure. At the end of the day, my big toes were both black and blue.

I'm considering making a series of slits in the top rand to lesson the pressure against the toe. Is it possible the toe area can be stretched. Any other thoughts, other than getting bigger shoes?

reddit.com
u/RunThenClimb — 1 day ago

Suggestions for second pair of climbing shoes

Been climbing in Butora Senegis for about 3 months. Bought them pretty early once I realised I’d be climbing regularly and wanted to stop using rentals.

When I first tried them on, the US 10 felt like the better snug fit, but on small footholds I got a lot of pressure on my big toe knuckle, to the point where it felt borderline painful, so I went with a 10.5.

Now the 10.5 feels a bit too big. On slabs especially, the shoe can rotate a bit on my foot, and if the velcro isn’t super tight I can almost slip my heel out. If I do tighten it properly, the velcro sometimes comes undone during movement.

Just wondering if that kind of toe pressure in the smaller size is something people usually get used to, or if it sounds more like the shoe shape just doesn’t suit my foot.

Also keen for suggestions for a good second pair.

reddit.com
u/mycahelo — 12 hours ago

Madrock Drone 2.0 Sizing & Fit

I’m thinking about getting Drone’s 2.0 but unsure about what size to get and if they fit my feet. I am a guy wearing street size (US 9) Scarpa Instincts VS women’s. I have greek feet with I believe narrow foot and small heels. My instincts fit very well with a very tiny dead space in the heel cup but nothing worrisome. My toes are curled so I believe I have a performance fit.

Based off my current feet build and shoe fitment, would the Drone’s 2.0 fit me well and would downsizing .5 be okay for me? I want to get the most power out of the shoe.

reddit.com
u/Junbrekabke1 — 1 day ago
🔥 Hot ▲ 175 r/climbingshoes

just sacrificed my first born child for scarpa blackbirds ama

just picked them up let me know if any of yalls have questions about my first impressions. have not climbed in them yet but i put them on

u/NyathanNyuwen — 3 days ago

Help with next shoes

I've been climbing for almost a year now. I started with a pair of Ocun Strikers and then moved on to LaSportiva Theory. They're very stiff, I love this for sensitive boulders.

I'd like another pair of shoes for training, something more comfortable, softer, and less aggressive.

With a smaller budget than the Theory.

I was thinking about Scarpa Drago or Instinct..

Thoughts? Or any other recommendations?

reddit.com
u/Sufficient_Row_4586 — 1 day ago

new bouldering shoes to replace katanas

some background: i LOVE my katanas and how secure they are on small holds and overhangs. the laces are great for my narrow feet and the heel almost fits (i have a really narrow foot that velcro struggles with and a tiny heel so many shoes just are too big there)

what i don’t love is how difficult it is to smear (and toe hooks aren’t great) and the toe bumps that have gone from tolerable pain to radiating pain (main reason why i want to switch)

i plan to keep them and use them for isolated climbs, but i think i need a softer shoe before the damage is severe and permanent (plus it’d be great to be able to smear more)

any recs on narrow shoes with a small heel for indoor?

(they’ve also developed a pretty bad crease in the heel over time)

u/dinonamedtoby — 3 days ago

DHL Express no longer available on Banana Fingers?

Title speaks for itself - I’ve bought shoes from Banana Fingers before and my selected delivery option was DHL Express; I got the shoes in abt 3 days. Not to mention it was only £17.50 on top of the pair itself. Now the only option available is either Post or UPS (it says it’s also fast but it’s a whole £34 extra). I’ve been going through this for a week and a half atp but DHL Express never shows up. For reference, I live in the Philippines. Thoughts?

u/chegiro16 — 2 days ago

short climbers, what shoes do you use?

the smaller size i can see online is usually eu 35/36, but this is my street shoe size, not climbing. it’s hard to downsize if stores just don’t have shoes for me. right now i have ocun ozones which for some reason fit me well while being size eu 38, but i thinking about buying a second pair soon. i’m curious what models and sizes do you have as small feet climbers?

reddit.com
u/lights-off — 2 days ago

Looking for new shoe recommendations

Hello everyone, I'm looking for a new pair of gym shoes since the one's I have right now have basically disintegrated in front of my big toes. I currently have a size 12 veloces since I have decently wide feet. Mostly looking for tougher rubber and maybe low amount of heal space. Any help will be appreciated

reddit.com
u/Dazzling-Moment-2189 — 2 days ago

Resole by Return to Sender

Very happy with these resoled Drago LV's from Return to Sender. I had the half sole, and rand repaired and it was $118 total. Gonna try them out later tonight.

u/drawsbutts — 4 days ago

Skwama / instinct vsr / zenist pro

Hola, he estado arrendando calzado, los cuales son scaroa origin en 41, madrock rove 41(sin calcetines), me molestsn un poco los nudillos, y phoenix, algunas veces en 40, pero es mucho mas incomodo, debo sacarmelas cuando descanzo.

Mi pregunta es cual de esos tres modelos me quedaría mejor para mi forma de pie, o si tienen alguna recomendación, por ahora hago solo en indoor. Y en que talla, solo me he probado las instinct, las otras no están en mi ciudad, debo pedirlas o viajar a otra ciudad.

u/plantasiabike — 3 days ago