r/boatrepair

Hi all, looking for some advice here. I have a 2001 Sea Ray BR185. It was winterized and wrapped for this past winter, the marine shop who did it also takes the wrap off and does an inspection of the boat. Nothing came back as an issue, put the boat in the water today and take her to the slip. Lo and behold bilge is not working. I found the fuse was bad, so I stuck in a new fuse still nothing. I did have a depth finder installed prior to this from the same place who winterized and wrapped the boat so I thought it may be an electrical issue. Took the boat out of the water and back in the drive way, undid the bilge gave the propeller a few manual turns and then turned her on, it worked and then died. I noticed I have a lot of disintegrates paper in the bilge from leaving paper in the ski locker over winter, my bad. You think the bilge is just clogged and the impeller is stuck or something whats your prognosis.

Thanks!

“Title”, my engine has a constant beep sound, the sound starts the second I turn the boat key. I believe it is a faulty oil sensor because it is always topped off on oil and has a steady strong pee stream. I’ve heard that if I unplug the sensor and turn the engine on if the sound goes away then that’s the issue. If it is not the issue the sound would continue.

Any thoughts or comments are greatly appreciated :)

Thank you in advance.

I need some engine advice. I have a fresh water cooled Yanmar 2GM20F. Earlier I found all my coolant in my bilge. I took off my heat exchanger cleaned it and changed out all the gaskets and put it back on. I just checked on the coolant and it’s all gone replaced with Raw water. I have no idea where my coolant went. Has this happened to any of you? Would you know what could be the cause and how to fix it?

I have decided I want to swap from thunderbolt 4 ignition to an HEI on my 4.3, but the only one I can find online is $1200 from mercury themselves. I can see v8 ones on amazon but not v6. Does anyone have any suggestions or input?
Thanks!

Diacom - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zvtvDllIaYzeMZ28uzKVNoeZ9hbRQcX8/view?usp=drive_link

Overheat condition - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NynhiYQn4jv1GAIhyt3mpP8uliMWEqZW/view?usp=sharing

I’m diagnosing an overheating issue on a Volvo Penta V6-260-C-J and would appreciate a second opinion on where to focus next. With Diacom hooked up, ECT steadily climbs from about 150°F to 168-169°F over roughly 1.5 minutes of video / 2.6 minutes engine run time. RPM is basically idle, around 650-660 RPM. Oil pressure stays OK around 38-39 PSI. No MIL, buzzer, derate, or low rev limit is showing during that clip.

I also have a separate video of the actual overheat condition without Diacom hooked up. The tech shut the engine down early because temp was continuing to rise and we didn’t want to trip the sensor or cause damage.

Troubleshooting done so far:

- Checked raw-water flow directly after the impeller housing: flow looked OK. - Reconnected tube to the heat exchanger and checked flow into the heat exchanger: flow looked OK. - Opened the bottom of the heat exchanger housing and inspected up to the grate: no obvious obstruction before the grate. - Did not yet remove the heat exchanger assembly/tube stack because we didn’t have the correct tool/nut at the time. Current next step is to remove the heat exchanger assembly and inspect/clean the tube stack internally.

Remaining suspects I’m considering:

- Fouled/restricted heat exchanger tube stack - Thermostat stuck partially closed - Impeller still weak under load even though static flow looked OK - Raw-water pump cam plate / wear plate issue - Possibly fuel pump issue, because the tech noticed it sounded loud/angry, but he didn’t think that would directly cause this overheating issue

Question: given that flow from the impeller to the heat exchanger inlet appears OK, does the steady ECT climb point most strongly to internal heat exchanger restriction, thermostat, or raw-water pump performance under load? Anything else I should check before/while pulling the heat exchanger?

Hi, is this something that can be repaired with marine-tex? can't get behind this spot from inside the boat.

https://preview.redd.it/c9svunpkgmzg1.png?width=953&format=png&auto=webp&s=a208b3b428fd3eb93e036b938df50a7c58634992

https://preview.redd.it/z3q2ksnggmzg1.png?width=953&format=png&auto=webp&s=3915a13a93453b835eb004efb6fdbd4cc9f954cc

My nephew and I are trying to fix our boat. It has a 5.7L Marine Power inboard motor. We bought it in good running condition, then ran it out of gas which is when we realized the gauge did not work! Filled it up with gas and now the motor will only run at high revs (7000) for 2-3 minutes from a cold start. Then the revs drop down to 3000rpm and no more. Switch it off and start again and the revs will go back up to 7000rpm for 21 seconds, then immediately drop back down to 3000rpm. That is every time - like it is being controlled by the control module. We had the module checked out (I guess it is called an ECM or similar) and it came back as working perfectly. We have replaced the fuel filter, both fuel pumps - low pressure and high pressure, and oil gauge. We really need to get it ready for family vacation.

No boat = SAD CHILDREN.

We are planning to take it out and work on it this week. Any ideas? $40 reward just for your genius diagnosis if it proves to be correct!!! Just think what you could do with that $$