So my internet guy said he couldn’t install the Ethernet port connections throughout the home. But the wires are already ran, I just need to put connector ends on them and plug them into my modem.
How do I do this?
And on a scale of difficulty, is it a simple strip & crimp job? Or a solder and electrical degree job?
This box had a switch removed (so a circuit for an exterior light is always on), and I want to add the switch back. I am confused about the number of wires in there (four sets?). How do I know which set to use?
We bought a new light fixture and the old one we wanted to move to a different room. Well, we waited a couple weeks to hang the old one and while taking the old fixture down we did not pay attention to which wire was positive and which one was negative. Now we can’t figure it out.
Is anyone able to help identify?
Hey folks, I'm considering buying an ebike that uses the Mahle X20 motor system. As all ebikes, it comes with a bulky wall charger. The engineer in me wants really hard to design a slower but compact USB PD charger for it, but I can't seem to find the make and model of the charging connector they use. If anyone has a clue, I'd be grateful.
And yes, I fully expect having to deal with canbus messages to make the BMS accept charging, but that's a completely different story.
So a few years ago i was a dumbass and snipped the male harness on my Silverado when trying to install a new radio. Trying to fix finally and all the after market harnesses (shown plugged into old radio here) have more wires than are currently in use (see old harness in my sausage fingers) in my truck. What’s the move? Do I remove wires from the new harness to match the old ones by position? Any help is most appreciated.
First post here, for reference just know I have absolutely no clue what I’m doing, just grabbed some techy stuff off Amazon for a school project to connect a screen to my school laptop.
Anywho not important, what I do need to know is how to connect the screen to the motherboard
I know it looks pretty simple, just like plug it into the port I already have it next to, but it won’t go in no matter what I do so I don’t know if im doing something super wrong or if I should’ve done some actually research beforehand lol
Anywho if anyone could help, much appreciated, sorry for not knowing anything about this stuff lol
I have a 2005 cheysler 300c with no ac, i had made a earlier post trying to figure out how i could make my own ground for the run relay safely without running it straight to ground since the relay recieves constant 12v power and it would cause it to be on all the time, so i need an ignition power source to make it turn on only with ignition, i dont want to splice directly into the ignition wiring as im not that knowledgeable on wiring and id perfer to not touch factory wiring that could cause the car to not function, so im going to splice into the cigarette lighter and run it all the way to the run relay in the back with a second relay and fuse but i cnat figure out if it also recieves constant 12v power and is completed with the fcm sending a geound signal or if its constantly geounded and is completed with 12v power
Was in the middle of modding an arcade controller and when I opened up the enclosure, this harness had been hanging onto the pcb by one cable. Thought I had ordered the replacement from Amazon but it was too small. What do you call this wire harness?
Building a sustainer pickup for my guitar, I have no clue what this crimp terminal is called, any help?
I wired a Nilight light bar with their wiring harness to my son’s Cf Moto 400s. When activated, the switch turns the light bar on regardless of if the machine is on or off. Basically always has available power.
How do I wire into an accessory plug or other source so the switch only operates with power when the machine is on? I think I get the issue - just can’t seem to find how to fix it.
Thank you.
Looking to tidy up the body of my bench grinder and need to remove the power lead before I paint it. How do I remove this without damaging anything? Or what's a replacement part called?
TIA
I know this is a longshot but these two items mean alot to me and i was wondering if there was a way i could snip the chord up further and maybe repair it? I have no experience doing anything electric so please be kind if this is a dumb question! Again i know it might seem cheap but these items just mean alot to me and id rather repair them instead of get rid of them. Im open to links to videos, explainations, the whole 9 yards, and thank you in advance. Its been a rough month and i would just really like these items to last me years. If its helpful the white chord is an led mirror and the clear one is to a neon light. TIA
Hello!
I’m installing a momentary button on a mini pc for an arcade build, but having some issues with solder. Hoping someone might have a tip for why my solder won’t stick to the circled contact? I’ve cleaned it with 99% isopropyl , using a bit of flux but it will not make a sold connection and breaks right off when adding the wire. The other 2 pads are fine. Solder goes straight on, no fuss.
Front left car speakers started screaming at me. This began very infrequently in my previous car so I figured it was an equipment issue, but never escalated to a point that became a problem. I remember it happening to the front right speaker so when I switched cars, I switched the speaker location so any passengers wouldn't have to deal with the static in their ear as it occurred like once every 6 months).
The static is consistent now and has a mind of its own. Comes and goes at random with varying decibels. Time to fix it!
Test 1) Well... I replaced the speakers (and crossover) and the static was still in the front left so I guess it wasn't the speaker.
Test 2) Maybe it's the amp... so I switched the amp outputs (9 wire) for the front left/right, but the static stayed on at the front left.
Test 3) Weird.... maybe the RCA cable from my headunit to amp is going bad, so I switched the front left and right. Static still at the front left. To further verify I switched the front and back RCA cables but the static was still in the front left.
Test 4) The last place I can think of a potential issue from my installation would be from the amp speaker output (9 wire) to the factory wiring since I had to cut into a factory amp, however that should have been ruled out from switching my 9 wire left/right at the amp in test 2. However when I undid and respliced those connections there was no improvement and jiggling them around didn't seem to have an effect.
To me (an uneducated novice), this leaves the only issue being in the factory speaker wiring itself. Which then leads me to ask... Is my only solution to bypass the factory wiring entirely and rewire straight from the amp to my crossover?
I can't think of any other potential solution. If I have to rewire the front speakers it sounds like a massive project since I'll have to tear apart my car again.
I feel like I'm missing something because if it is the factory speaker wiring, why would this same issue have occurred in my previous car, originally from the same speaker?? Is that really just a coincidence??
All input would be greatly appreciated.
(I don't think it matters but my set-up is a Pioneer DMH-2660NEX head unit running RCA cables to a Pioneer GM-DX975 amp -> 9-wire to factory wiring, and for speakers I had Polk Audio db+ 6502's but just switched those for JL C3 600's (including the crossover wiring) since I thought the speaker was the problem.)
Hey, I hope I'm in the right sub for this, but I just picked up a set of headlights and noticed the socket flange was broken. I was tossing around the idea of JB Weld plastic repair and sand it down to hold, or just replacing the socket itself with a cheap parts headlight. Is there any way to remove this typer of terminal?
The clip to keep the wire in the socket is also gone, that's why I'm leaning toward just replacing it.