

Just got the Spark delivered and trying to work around space,Does anyone have the top mount printed and does it cause any problems?


Just got the Spark delivered and trying to work around space,Does anyone have the top mount printed and does it cause any problems?
Hi makers,
I just finished a small project for the Creality SparkX i7: the Hackman LED System (HLS).
The goal was simple: better visibility while printing, cleaner timelapses, and honestly… making the printer look way better at night 😄
The whole setup costs under 10€, keeps the original USB port fully usable for USB drives, and turns on/off with a touch switch.
There are only a few solder joints to make, and I’m currently looking into making a low-cost AliExpress component kit to simplify the build even more.
I made a short video of it in action here:
https://youtube.com/shorts/q7VxovVXLqc?feature=share
Would love to hear what you think or what you’d improve
https://github.com/OrcaSlicer/OrcaSlicer/pull/13581
Orca has really old profiles and many printers like the new SparkX i7 are still missing, i converted all new crealityprint profiles and adapted them to work in Orca. Please try it out with your printer!
As a warning backup your files and custom configs!
Also with some printers old custom print profiles might not work (just dont show up) still working on that somewhere there is a naming issue
This is the best I've seen it so far after letting the bed sit heated at 55C for 10 minutes.
When its cold there was a total range of 1.5 difference.
I was having adhesion issues printing in the front corners while making a simple rectanguar print that sat on its thin side (6.5mm) and and went from the front left corner diagonally to the back right.
The front end kept coming loose about 1/4 of the way through the print job. I tried using brim and even painting supports on the end. I autocalibrate before each print.
I did not try using glue stick.
I previously had a K1SE and shimmed that bed to make it better but I'm new to this 'bed-slinger' type and not sure how or where to try shimming or if there is a better alternative.
Hi SPARKX i7 owners
I designed a simple adapter for the CFS Lite that allows the use of 250g filament spools instead of standard 1kg rolls.
Honestly, it’s super useful for:
The adapter keeps the spool centered and rolling smoothly inside the CFS Lite.
I mainly made it because buying 4 different 1kg spools just for a small multicolor project felt… painful
Would love feedback from other SPARKX i7 users, especially if you try different spool brands/sizes.
HackMan3D