Hello- I love in Oregon and am interested i. test driving the new 2026 Outlander PHEV. I called both Mitsubishi dealers in the Portland area and they both said they have no idea when they will have the vehicle and to check back in July. Curious, I did a nationwide search on Cargurus and found exactly TWO vehicles available. What gives and should I simply buy a RAV4 and call it good?
Hello,
I’m looking to buy an outlander phev. I was wondering if anyone can tell me if there is a year or trim package to avoid? We are looking mainly at used 23, 24, and 25 are their big differences between these years?
I also went to a dealership and got a quote for a new 25 SE (picture attached), although I don’t know if this deal is worth it vs buying used.
Any advice is helpful! Thanks
2024 Outlander PHEV, 35k km, OEM Bridgestone 255/45R20
• Blowout #1: on the road
• Blowout #2: while parked
Both rear tires show worn-out inner edges. Looks like negative camber to me.
Anyone else had premature rear tire wear or blowouts on a 2023/24 PHEV? Any TSBs? Did Mitsubishi cover it?
I have a new 2025 PHEV, and I typically charge it nightly during the week for my commute. We are going on vacation for 10 days...should I plug it in and not worry about it, or leave it unplugged while we're away? I get the message on the app that charging has stopped when the battery is full, but is it bad to leave it plugged in long term?
Thinking about replacing our car with an Outlander PHEV next year. For a 3 row that is slightly longer than a RAV4 it seems like the best value out there. I know the back row is pretty tight but we'd only use it occassionally for short trips.
I've never owned one but I'd like to hear your thoughts on them.
Those who tow with the Outlander PHEV, how’s your experience? I know in North America regulation say it handles up to 1500 lbs which is ridiculous, I’ve seen people towing huge trailers with this car around Europe. I wanted to buy a 17ft boat, which shouldn’t weigh more than 3500lbs or something. Just wanted to gather everyone’s experience on this
Everything I dislike in my previous GT has been changed. I mean everything. New sound system and radio, new dashboard, Bigger battery 50 more HP ventilated seat new infotainment system new chassis and the heat pump for canada’s weather.
I am running on 1 L per hundred kilometres since I got it and I did 600 km almost. (Old dashboard picture)
What an impressive upgrade from the 2024
Our 2022 Outlander charged overnight as usual, then I did the school run this morning, plugged it back in when I got home since I’ve got a bit of driving later today… when I jumped back in the battery hadn’t topped up, the charge port was flashing red (no fault light on the wall charger though) and then got this warning when I started it up:
Like the title says. We are very close to buying a 2018 Outlander PHEV SEL with around 95k miles on it. We are used to EVs and PHEVs as we already have 2 chevy Bolts and a Chevy Volt, plus a Nissan Leaf we sold 3 years ago.. We already have a 6.6kw EVSE installed, but may need to upgrade to a dual EVSE since we would now have 4 plug in cars.
Are there any specific problem areas to look for before finalizing the purchase? I intend to check for battery degradation and the basics like torn CV boots, proper oil level and condition, etc.
Hi all
I live in Calgary Alberta Canada.
How is the heater in winter? Does it take long to warm up? Is it powerful enough to heat the cabin?
I've never owned anything other than an ICE vehicle so would appreciate your insights.
Hello everyone, Outlander PHEV 2025, a little bit one month and 400km later started to make a **new** humming sound, it starts when the car move (forward or backward) and it is followed by a little bit of trepidation (I fell it stronger on accelerator) when moving slow it is more perceptible, and I'm able to record it (I will check how edit and upload sound)
Mind I drive almost entirely on EV Echo mode.
And I'm surely not talking about the Humming all EV vehicles do, that's different. Would love your feedback on this before taking it to the dealer.
Hey everyone,
Just got a 2026 Outlander PHEV. Just wondering if anyone uses a longer, after market charging cord and if anyone had recommendations.
The provided one just barely reaches my vehicle in my garage based on where the plug is, and although I will likely end up putting in a type 2 charger at some point, I would love to have a longer cord if possible.
Any input is appreciated.
Has anyone encountered this?
I'll be honest — when I first got my GT Noir, the audio was disappointing. Flat. Dull. No 'ting' in the highs, no rumble in the lows. Just sad sound. And I'm one of those people who needs music on the drive home. I take the long way back specifically to decompress, crank the tunes, and feel every beat. So this mattered to me. The sales guy was pumping it up — go ahead, push it — and I'm standing there giving him that side-eye smile going "yeah, sounds good," when in my head I'm thinking my 2013 Grand Caravan sounds better than this right now.
After going deep on this, I can tell you — the hardware isn't the problem. The DSP tuning is a real thing in this car and once you get out of its way, you can push this system to 95% volume without distortion and actually feel your music again. Here's everything I found.
The 2024 PHEV GT gets the Bose 9-speaker setup — speakers throughout the cabin including a dedicated subwoofer in the rear cargo floor. The sub is there. It works. But it only kicks in at very low frequencies, leaving a noticeable dead band between where the mids drop off and where the sub picks up. That gap is where all your warmth and punch lives, and the factory tuning just... abandons it.
Bose doesn't publish amplifier wattage, driver sizes, or crossover specs for any OEM install — that's standard practice across all their car partnerships, not just Mitsubishi. So you can't tune around it with hard numbers. What you can do is stop stacking processing on top of processing and let the Bose DSP breathe.
Here's what's actually happening when your music sounds weak and flat through Android Auto or CarPlay: both platforms re-encode your audio before it hits the head unit. They apply their own EQ curves and normalization on top of whatever the Bose DSP is doing. Two EQ profiles stacked on each other. The result is exactly what you're hearing — muddy, compressed, lifeless.
Bluetooth bypasses that re-encoding layer entirely and hands the audio straight to the Bose processor. That's why so many people report better bass over Bluetooth — it's not placebo, there's a real technical reason behind it.
A BestCarAudio.com lab test (Kenwood head unit, iPhone, QA403 analyzer) measured this and ranked audio quality in this order:
Yes, a USB stick with your music files on it beats all of them. I know right? But the data is the data.
One more note on CarPlay vs Android Auto — Android Auto gives you more EQ control at the app level, which means you can compensate for the Bose tuning curve more easily. CarPlay is more locked down. If you're on Android, use that to your advantage.
Turn off everything that's "helping" you and let the Bose do its job.
Android:
iPhone:
Spotify:
Apple Music:
In the car itself:
*Start there - personally I max out the Bass to 90% and set the treble to about 75%. Mid's stay centered.
The two that matter most: Sound Check on iPhone and Normalize Volume in Spotify. Kill those two first and you'll hear a difference immediately before touching anything else.
My choice of songs to test your system with (all Lossless)
These aren't just good songs — they're good test songs. Wide frequency range, good dynamic contrast, you'll hear immediately whether your system is working.
The hardware in this car is capable. The factory tuning has its quirks, but the bigger issue is everything upstream fighting the DSP before a single sound wave leaves a speaker. Clear that out and you might be surprised what this system can actually do.
Now my issue are the the refuel door and charge port door rattling too much on the exterior side.
This is probably a dumb question:
I'd like to buy a level 2 charger, but i need a nema 6-50 adapter. Would that be okay? Or should i just get a charger with with 6-50 built in?
Just got a 2026 outlander PHEV and I’m looking for good plastic all weather floor mats! Located in western Canada if there’s others out there in the Alberta region
I was surprised at my last oil change, my tires are at 4/32nds. I have 28,000 miles. What tires do you recommend for Ohio, with full 4 seasons?
Leased the 2024 for 2 years and loved it - just returned it yesterday. If it came in a full EV option, would be a no brainer to get. Miss it already, and enjoyed being part of this sub. I bid thee adieu.
Final stat: averaged 2.3L/100km on very good charging habits for 32,160km.
After my 2021 RAV4 Prime (132k miles) was totaled last month, I found myself in a 2024 Outlander PHEV SEL. The Toyota market is currently wild—$40k for high-mileage Primes—so I took a look at Mitsubishi.
Picked this up for $33k with 19k miles. It’s got the HUD and 1500W plugs I need for camping, plus the massage seats which the Toyota definitely didn't have.
Still learning the ropes on the battery—planning to use Tarmac + Save for my Vegas trip next week. I know these are huge in Canada and Australia, but they seem rare here in SoCal. Glad to be part of the group!
