After my first time using this saw to cut some drywall and strapping the blade now sits off center I’m just wondering if anyone knows any way to fix this issue? I don’t want to try to twist it and make the problem worse
Thanks
While I expect most of this acquisition to affect the industrial assembly level market, I have always liked a number of Panasonic tools and they will get a number of very cool controllers- which tech could be integrated in the LXT/XGT product stack.
Hi, I am buying the Makita DTD152Z 18v LXT Cordless Impact Driver, I'm find the whole bit and bit holder thing confusing.
I want to get a bit holder that is streamlined, I don't like the idea of magnetic only, I've read the bits fall out.
I want to use the above screw, I'd be grateful for any advice please
Why are these $549 usd? I can buy a competitor combo for less. It's annoying to me. And I know I'm whining.
Just saw 3 guys (early 20s, engineering types) with some sort of data collection setup outside Bridge to Brews finish line. Asked them a couple questions as to what their setup was for and who they were with but were pretty cagey, saying it was “for data”.
No shit!
Two of the guys had mobile 360 camera rigs for photogrammetry, one held high and one held low. The other had what looked like a helmet rig with LIDAR and stride sensors.
Went another block east to see another group of 3 dudes, slightly older and much cagier who confirmed it was for mobile mapping.
Any thoughts or ID on this setup?
I'm in dire need of assistance.
Bit got stuck, removed collar, washer and spring and the but sleeve was stuck.
Upon checking tool diagram, I thought I had to remove the casing and pull anvil through.
Turns out I didn't.
Bit still stuck.
Now trying to reassmble and apparently this is the only Makita that the casing doesn't thread shut, so now I have no idea how to compress the spring and keep it compressed.
Any help would be great.
XDT13 Impact
Does anyone have experience with both of these dust blowers (as001 and das180) to notice much of a difference between the two? Got a few 18v batteries but looking to buy into 40v for other tools and was wondering if i should get the 18v mini or 40v mini blower? Specs look the same but wondered if anyone has real world knowledge on them
I’m tired of my old green Bosch and Black & Decker drill/drivers and would like to start building up a Makita setup.
To begin with, I’d like to have two 18V tools for drilling and driving. It’s mostly for small jobs around the house, building a bench for the garden (including hardwood), etc.
I’m thinking one should be a small, lightweight screwdriver that I can use for everyday tasks. But I’m unsure whether that should be an impact driver like the Makita DTD173:
https://www.prishammeren.dk/shop/makita-lxt-18v-9349p.html
And then a standard hammer drill/driver like the DHP484Z:
https://www.prishammeren.dk/shop/makita-dhp484z-18v-6497p.html
Do they overlap too much if the impact driver is stronger than the DHP484, which I would then mostly only use for drilling into light concrete walls?
Would I be better off getting a small, lightweight drill/driver without impact for light tasks around the house (which model does Makita have for that?), and then using the DHP484Z or similar for heavier tasks?
In that case, I’ve seen the DDF083Z recommended abroad, but Makita doesn’t seem to list it on their Danish site.
I’m thinking of getting a 2.0 or 3.0Ah battery for light use and a 5.0Ah for heavier tasks.
I ordered a drill from the makita amazon store (tool only) and it came in a clear plastic bag in an Amazon box. Is this normal? How do I know it’s not refurbished/ fake?
I have the makita AWS adapter that I use with my plug in extractor for my mitre saw when it is not on site.
Works great, only issue is that if my cordless extractor is nearby, it also sets that off and drains the battery super quick as it's activated more than it needs to be.
Oddly, it doesn't work the other way around. The plunge saw paired with the wireless extractor doesn't set off the adapter.
I've tried repairing everything and it still does it. Any ideas?
My Makita HP1630 is producing sparks during operation. I’m still a beginner, but it doesn’t really look normal to me. There’s no bad or burning smell, though.
Any idea what could be causing this?
The one tool I don’t really own is an auger. I’m heavily invested in the XGT ecosystem and have 1.3 acres of land to fence the entire boarder (per my fiancée who doesn’t want to see the trashy neighbors any longer).
Looking at prices the Makita are $1,000 when something like the 40v Royobe are “only” $500 and there’s an 18v Royobe that’s only $150.
My earth is pretty soft in a forest with layers of leaves BUT I’m in the northeast so there’s also a ton of rocks/stone to deal with.
I don’t see used ones for sale beyond the gas powered and would prefer to avoid gas if possible for multiple reasons including them being a PITA and being sensitive to exhaust / asthma etc.
It does look like they have an innovative hip pad that I imagine makes one less prone to messing up the wrists / arms. So are they just really that much better? Have we ever had eRebates / promos or anything with these auger tools? Can’t see them being clearances since no one caries them in stock (near me).
Upgraded my Makita tools to the XGT line when they released and absolutely have no regrets but here in America I can only justify the upgrade because I make money with my tools and managing four batteries per 36v tool at a minimum gets a bit old. If I was a DIY guy or a handyman who isn’t on the tools everyday, I’d stick with the 36v line. The XGT tools are more powerful and I do notice, but it all about getting a return on investment with tools. XGT tools don’t go on sale here in the states nearly as much as Milwaukee or Dewalt.
Still, love the fact I have carpentry tools that are top of the line for accuracy and reliability. My 12” miter is a heavy bitch but it’s smooth as butter and live the shadow line. The 8.5” miter gets used the most though.
Has anybody had any experience of these?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003104314715.html
They're marketed as reducing the weight of tools for overhead work, but it seems it would be a good match up with the DUP181Z pruners (£150) turning them into the equivalent DUP180Z (£720!).
Naturally need to be cynical when on your belt next to your meat and veg.
Local store is having a sale, pricing is in CAD. Need something for diy tasks and a reno coming up.
DHP486 $109
DDF485 $90
DHP458 $120
Any reason the older brushed 458 is more expensive? Seen some posts on the 486 being unreliable. Opinions please. Thanks
Hi folks, I’ve got a Makita DHP485T001 18v drill (United Kingdom). The stock chuck on it is not good - very slippy and awful runout that makes the drill really shaky drilling holes and means it’s pretty much impossible to drill a round hole.
I’ve seen a lot of people talk about upgrading their stock chucks across a lot of brands to Röhm.
The online Röhm chuck finder recommends the EXTRA50-RV or EXTRA80-RV for the DDF485 (I’m assuming they’re the same spec despite not being the hammer-drill version?!).
However, the MakitaUK website lists this chuck - https://www.makitauk.com/product/763196-5.html which is still Röhm stamped but significantly cheaper. To my eye it looks like it’s the EXTRA80-RV?
Would very much appreciate someone who knows more letting me know what’s going on here and which chuck I should be going for? :)
Thanks!
Brand new. Made in the UK. 09.2025. No QA at the factory?
I want a couple new LXT 5.0 AH batteries.
How can you be sure you’re getting genuine Makita batteries? Especially if buying online?
